Yes you did. Sounds like it will be a good setup. I’ll check back once you get it setup. Looks like you will have a nice clean car.

Yes I understand what a drive by wire throttle body is. Just wanted to know how he was setting it up.

What is the drive-by-wire throttle body setup?

Could be rebadged just know where it was purchased.That Nissan one isn't even close to the same. Its designed to bolt onto the fuel rail. This one is -6AN inlet and outlet.

Its an old HKS fuel pressure regulator.You bought the car from me. I bought the regulator from HKS about 10 years or so ago. It always has worked good since new.

The calipers aren't similar at all. The 1g calipers have the parking brake built in. The 2g's are in the drum for the parking brake.

Are you talking about this stuff?Race Gas | Racing Fuel Concentrate

What is camber at? Either its being compensated wrong, you don't have the brakes held down, or something is loose.

Do you have boost leaks? Whats your base timing set at? Your TPS didn't change if you were on the gas to keep it running. Your ISC is at 54 counts also, should be lower. I'm not great with link but just some things I noticed.

They would need a road force balancer but most shops now should have one. Just call around and ask.

I'm getting codes 14 and 44 for tps and ignition malfunction. Vehicle will sometimes pop and backfire at idle and sometimes will be fine. Will also pop and backfire under half throttle or more. I have swapped coils, transistor box, tps, new plugs, swapped computers. All parts came off a...

I have a log attached of when its happening. Under half throttle and above it will start popping and backfiring. Boost is set to 15 psi and holds there. No knock. Wideband reads 12:1 even though log shows leaner. First time it happens is 15 seconds into log. Let me know if you can see...

I can try a smaller spring or I'll just use a boost controller and set it to 30 and see if it holds. Was hoping to get a base tune at 20psi. Not sure how that link helps.

Just got my car up and running and I'm having a bad problem with creep. I just installed a new punishment o2 housing and a tial 38mm MVS wastegate, external dump. I have a 20psi spring in it and it will boost over 35psi by 6500. I tried porting the exhaust housing but it didn't affect it at...

Only other thing there is the oil galley plug to the right of the rear main.

Even wastegate on o2 should of had that hole welded shut.

What fuel pump and injectors? What turbo? Going to need a logger to watch knock and see how much timing is being pulled. Sounds like it's pulling timing and hitting fuel cut. Also need a wideband to watch air fuel.

Do you have a logger or anything to see what's actually going on instead of guessing? Also you should get a wideband.

Is your battery good? If it is you will have to see what kind of a drain you have. Hook a multimeter between the negative post and negative battery cable and set it on amps. Should be 30mA or less. If not start pulling fuses without opening doors until it goes away.

Does that one just plug into the OBDII port or does it use a seperate sender for each.

I'd go with the autometer digital gauges but won't be cheap. Better to spend more on good gauges.

Were intake and exhaust valves leaking when you did the leak down test? Or where was it leaking from

Tell him good luck with it. Won't last long but it is cheap.

Sure doesn't look like it says holset on the tag on it.

Probably time to bring it to a machine shop and have them pressure test it and fix whatever was not done correctly. Was your timing good before you took it apart?

Worst case is you destroy your engine. But not likely to happen if you baby it.

A lot of people have removed power steering so that's also why they were able to get to it.How did you strip the socket? Or do you mean the threaded hole that the stud threads into.

Have you searched through the forums at all on your own. Most people aren't going to spoon feed you everything. I'd look through other peoples builds and see what they have to figure out what you want more than just 500hp.

Thats the blower motor resistor.

You can find evo III 16g's for about 300 in good condition. Way better than that cx racing turbo.

Hard to say I upgraded a bunch of stuff at the same time. Ran high 11's with them so they worked out good

I'm running Manley springs with stock retainers and they work good. Usually rev it to 8000 and never have issues.

Doing it cheap and right don't go together. If you by parts cheap like from ebay it isn't going to last. Spend the money now with quality parts and you won't regret it later.

That goes to the ac evaporator.

I found the problem. Apparently in ecmlink the activate fuel pump was checked. That was making the pump come on at all times. Unchecked that and now it operates properly.

In the on position before trying to start it. Before the pump would turn on when first turning the key to on and than the pump would stop until the engine starts cranking. Now the pump is just always on.

On my 1g my fuel pump comes on and stays on whenever the key is turned to on with the engine off. Not sure what would cause that unless the mpi relay is faulty. Any ideas?

Did you pressure test the system to make sure nothing is leaking? I'd also test the cap even if its not very old.

Why does it matter what transmission was on the new engine. Put your flywheel and clutch on the new engine.

The pulley will come off with the 4 12mm bolts removed. It may be stuck on but it will come off.

Either maperformance or DB can do the work. You could also replace the head gasket yourself.

If its a mitsu exhaust housing than yes. If its not than it won't.

Transfer case would need to be removed. Rear diff can stay as long as driveshaft is out.

I've only found them from the dealer.Specs for a 93 are:Ring gear and pinion backlash- .004-.006in.Pinion bearing preload-8-10in.lbDifferential bearing preload- .002in.lb

Sorry didn't realize you had a 1g.

The tensioner pulley gets rotated in the counterclockwise direction and the holes should be pointed down not up. If you did it the other way that would be your problem.

This isn't an item that I would cheap out on. I would rather spend more money and know you have a quality product. If this doesn't work right it will do some damage. Its your car so buy it and see how it works.

Does the engine turn over by hand? Have you checked power at the starter?

yes they are.

Part number for the oil pump sprocket is MD135005 and the nut is MD095237