Could be rebadged just know where it was purchased.That Nissan one isn't even close to the same. Its designed to bolt onto the fuel rail.
This one is -6AN inlet and outlet.
Its an old HKS fuel pressure regulator.You bought the car from me. I bought the regulator from HKS about 10 years or so ago. It always has worked good since new.
Do you have boost leaks? Whats your base timing set at? Your TPS didn't change if you were on the gas to keep it running. Your ISC is at 54 counts also, should be lower. I'm not great with link but just some things I noticed.
I'm getting codes 14 and 44 for tps and ignition malfunction. Vehicle will sometimes pop and backfire at idle and sometimes will be fine. Will also pop and backfire under half throttle or more. I have swapped coils, transistor box, tps, new plugs, swapped computers. All parts came off a...
I have a log attached of when its happening. Under half throttle and above it will start popping and backfiring. Boost is set to 15 psi and holds there. No knock. Wideband reads 12:1 even though log shows leaner. First time it happens is 15 seconds into log. Let me know if you can see...
I can try a smaller spring or I'll just use a boost controller and set it to 30 and see if it holds. Was hoping to get a base tune at 20psi. Not sure how that link helps.
Just got my car up and running and I'm having a bad problem with creep. I just installed a new punishment o2 housing and a tial 38mm MVS wastegate, external dump. I have a 20psi spring in it and it will boost over 35psi by 6500. I tried porting the exhaust housing but it didn't affect it at...
What fuel pump and injectors? What turbo? Going to need a logger to watch knock and see how much timing is being pulled. Sounds like it's pulling timing and hitting fuel cut. Also need a wideband to watch air fuel.
Is your battery good? If it is you will have to see what kind of a drain you have. Hook a multimeter between the negative post and negative battery cable and set it on amps. Should be 30mA or less. If not start pulling fuses without opening doors until it goes away.
Probably time to bring it to a machine shop and have them pressure test it and fix whatever was not done correctly. Was your timing good before you took it apart?
A lot of people have removed power steering so that's also why they were able to get to it.How did you strip the socket? Or do you mean the threaded hole that the stud threads into.
Have you searched through the forums at all on your own. Most people aren't going to spoon feed you everything. I'd look through other peoples builds and see what they have to figure out what you want more than just 500hp.
Doing it cheap and right don't go together. If you by parts cheap like from ebay it isn't going to last.
Spend the money now with quality parts and you won't regret it later.
I found the problem. Apparently in ecmlink the activate fuel pump was checked. That was making the pump come on at all times. Unchecked that and now it operates properly.
In the on position before trying to start it. Before the pump would turn on when first turning the key to on and than the pump would stop until the engine starts cranking. Now the pump is just always on.
On my 1g my fuel pump comes on and stays on whenever the key is turned to on with the engine off. Not sure what would cause that unless the mpi relay is faulty. Any ideas?
I've only found them from the dealer.Specs for a 93 are:Ring gear and pinion backlash- .004-.006in.Pinion bearing preload-8-10in.lbDifferential bearing preload- .002in.lb
The tensioner pulley gets rotated in the counterclockwise direction and the holes should be pointed down not up. If you did it the other way that would be your problem.
This isn't an item that I would cheap out on. I would rather spend more money and know you have a quality product. If this doesn't work right it will do some damage. Its your car so buy it and see how it works.