Looks very similar to a DNP, but without the nameplate. Do you have a picture of the collector?

Awesome! So it was just a case of parts getting mixed in the wrong box, thanks so much!

So about a year and a half ago I was at the track and had a little whoopsie moment when I flat shifted (yay DSMLink) from third to fourth and, in fact, hit second instead of fourth. The upshot of all this is that the rear end took one for the team and needed to be replaced. Then life got in...

Just from giving those shots a once over here what I seeLeft and right poly motor mounts (as said by stuckwithgsx)Tial 44mm V-band wastegate and Tial BOV (very good shit)DNP or equivalent tubular exhaust manifold (decent, not the best but not terrible, watch for cracking)Hard to tell...

Here's mine.<img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/drag_racing.jpg" alt="Staging Lanes" /><img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/img_0373.jpg" alt="Img 0373" /><img src="http://www.dsmtuners.com/gallery/files/3/1/2/3/7/156Mitsatthetrack9-22-06.jpg"...

Those are definitely some good things to check out, but the cams are having some effect as well. How are your airflow numbers now comparing to what they were before? More air with the same fuel will make you lean.

I had a similar issue with my old head and an OEM metal head gasket. It would push coolant no matter what under boost, turned out the head was warped. A quick and dirty way to test this is by emptying the overflow tank and then going for a ride without getting into boost, then checking the...

If you want to use something a little more purpose-built, there is an OEM O2 housing to turbine stud that is the correct size and is fairly short. I use 4 of these with a FP3052 and DNP tubular mani with good results, it's still kinda a pain in the ass but its not too bad.

VFAQ is your friend. It was one of the first real good resources for DSMs and has most simple and some more complex jobs detailed very well. A tip for the head: there are two hoist points connected to both the intake and exhaust manifolds. If you can get your hands on an engine hoist...

Do you have an E3 O2 housing? If so, that's the problem right there. I know RRE once made a downpipe that avoided that problem, but as you already have a DP it doesn't help you. You can run it that way, we did, and it ended slowing chewing through the flex section. For us it didnt matter as...

You don't want to do that, it would negate all the work and money you've put into the system. You need to think of the fuel system like an electrical circuit. Any resistance (restrictions) impede the entire system. Similarly, a small diameter hose that runs for six feet has much more resistance...

Haha, I love threads like this. I generally don't like to talk costs outside of PMs, but I'm getting swamped, so let me answer some of the questions I saw:Any decent upholstery shop can do our interiors. You might want to pick one that has done more modern cars before, because unlike hot rods...

Highly recommended. You can build a kit yourself, but the FP kit is fantastic and worth the money IMHO. Well built and a snap to install. It will take you an hour at most, with most of that time being spent routing the wire.

Those of you bashing Honda radiators have literally no idea what you're talking about. They're often used in higher hp larger turbo cars for fitment issues. Do a search on here or on the Link forums and you'd be surprised by what cars are running Honda or Scirocco half-sized radiators. Now...

Looks like a pretty good setup to me. I would keep the boost down until you get larger injectors and the means to control them. Are you on NeWEngDsm.org/forums? The local club is pretty active and knowledgeable, its definitely worth getting on that forum and introducing yourself. See you at...

I used the SBR version of the CC clutch, I think it was called the 3500 but I honestly forget at this point, with a organic disk and had a bad experience. it was supposed to be equivalent to the 2600 but barely lasted a few months on a 16g powered car that was trapping around 112 on pump gas and...

Bear in mind that the springs have failed before on ACT street discs. There was a time a few years ago when a bunch of springs failed, but it seems that ACT has gotten their QC together, a quick search will reveal what I'm talking about. I've used the 2600 for both a 16g setup and then a...

The time in my profile on HKS 264/272s and a really rough tune. The next run a misshift trashed the head so now we're using 272/272. I'm really looking forward to seeing what the car can do with this setup, but I feel that 264/272s are a bit on the small side unless you expressly want a...

As long as your tuning system is up to the task. How big are the injectors you were thinking of and what were you gonna use to tune them with?

Sick car, I love those Works. What size/offset are they?

Yeah I would agree with you on that knowing now that 1g bolts aren't TTY. JNZ has a pretty extensive selection of OEM parts, though I didn't see any OEM head bolts when I did a quick search on their site. Calling either them or a dealer would probably be your best bet.

Ahh interesting. Are 2g bolts torque to yield, or am I just making that up (very possible given the amount of sleep I've had recently)?

Is there any reason why you want to go with OEM head bolts? IIRC they are supposed to stretch when you torque them properly, making them much less durable than ARPs. If cost is the primary concern bear in mind that you may have to replace them if you ever have to change your headgasket in the...

Absolutely.with a GT4202

Cheapest and easiest: Use an OEM composite gasket, many people have gone very fast on them and they tend to be easier to seal than MLS gaskets. Downside is that they are more fragile and more prone to damage from knock, however this also can let them act like a sort of fuse on the engine...

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance PartsForced Performance Turbochargers: Turbo HardwareEverything you need, probably at lower prices than a dealership. Being a 1g it looks like it might be the cheapest for you to just go full -10an return line, but then again I'm sure...

Well how long do you plan on staying with the 14b? If you have no plans to upgrade it it makes more sense to use a smaller core, as it will be able to cool the intake charge without sacrificing too much flow to the radiator. If you plan on going with a larger setup in the near future, you'd...

+1 this is very doable. Basically your intended front mount will be running what's known as "long route piping" which basically means that the piping runs through the stock SMIC location. A lot of kits used to run this but many today use short route piping, which runs directly from the FMIC...

One more in support of keeping the 1g intake mani. On a similar setup (16g, 1g IM, DSMLink) we made 347awhp and 357 awtq on 93 octane measured with a Dynapack. That nice broad torque curve made for a very fun street car.

Post up a pic or any serial numbers you see on them, that would increase the chances that someone on here knows what they are.

To the OP- Read through the upgrade paths found on this site, they're a pretty good tool for getting you pointed in the right direction. Most DSMers make power through modification of the 4G63 already in our cars, not through motor swaps, and as stated before Evo swaps are incredibly...

What kind of headgasket is that, a stock composite one I take it? It could definitely be a sealing issue with any of the coolant or oil passages between the block and head. What color is the fluid coming out? White smoke is typically coolant and smells sickly sweet whereas oil typically has a...

Boost/vac leaks can be a major source of idle issues. So many times I've had an idle issue that I was going crazy trying to diagnose until I realized that there was a leak somewhere in the system. Try solving that issue first and see if the idle problems persist, if you have unmetered air...

Your posts are almost unintelligible. Use proper English and more people will actually be able to understand what you're saying and therefore help you.

April Morning? Johnny Tremain?I think its probably April Morning, which is historical fiction about Lexington and Concord. Great book.

Not quite cars, but if you liked the movie 300 try reading Gates of Fire: Gates of Fire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Lots of action and a pretty good depiction of Ancient Greek warfare if that interests you at all. It's also a pretty easy read I think. Another book that I think is...

Definitely check your valvetrain after that. My brother had the lovely experience of taking our DSM from the top of third (~100 mph) into second, DSMLink recorded around 14K rpm IIRC, even caught it on video. We ended up trashing most of the valvetrain, sent a rocker through the valve cover...

Also something to consider is that a lot of 3" setups require the battery to either be dropped down to rest on the sub-frame (a huge pain in the ass, ask me how I know...) or relocated to the trunk. Some food for thought.

We run Autometer Nexus gauges which have a nice redline feature where the entire gauge lights up red after a preset value has been reached. Really good for low oil press, high water/oil temp, and boost spikes. That being said we're having some software issues with them, it could be an install...

A 16/18G is a great option for you to start with. They can be found everywhere for not that much money and will take a beating and keep boosting. You might have some issues getting 330whp with keydriver (never used it, don't know exactly how capable it is), but it is very possible. For what...

First, what are your goals? Without knowing that its hard to say if this list is good or not. The parts that you've listed there are ok, but some don't really go well together. For example, you have a big SMIM, yet want to run 264/272 cams. Don't get me wrong, I ran 264/272 cams on a 16g car...

I'm unfortunately not somewhere where I can listen to or watch those vids, but do you happen to run a heat barrier gasket on the intake side? If you don't have your EGR port blocked off in the exhaust runners hot gasses from anti-lag can go into the EGR system and melt those gaskets, causing an...

OP-to really run a 16g or 18g you need all the things stated above, Hurley is pretty much right on, the only things I would add to that list is some form of fuel control. I would also definitely get larger injectors (which would necessitate some form of control). A simple search will give you...

None, as stated before the engines are from completely different companies.

Instead of asking people on this site, who may or may not know what they're talking about, I would search around your area for custom fabrication shops which do cages regularly. These guys will probably know not only what designs are the safest and/or most practical, but should be up to date on...

Personally use 8.3:1 with no complaints. Car ran 12.052@116 on the 16G and then 11.9@122 on a shakedown pass with the 3052. Unfortunately a miss shift on the next run trashed the head and then life got in the way, so she's still down. Car also felt very good on the street with both of those...

Use a blog, that's where builds are meant to go.

Just for clarification, you do realize that that pic is of a china made EvoIII GT turbo, NOT an actual MHI turbo, right?

A 6 puck will hold more torque than a street disc if you use the same pressure plate, but it will be harder to engage smoothly. I'm also not sure if the 6 pucks come sprung or unsprung.

For the record, when I said my 2.5" turboback rubbed it was a VRS unit.