My wheel bearings in the rear pass. side self destructed bigtime.Bought a new hub assembly from Carquest. It was much unlike the one for the front. It didn't come with wheel studs, or a mating surface for the rotor. ust a smallish housing with the 4 bolt holes and the bearings.I know on...

Yesterday the brakes on my '95 TSi AWD went bye bye. There is a nasty hole in the rear line, just in front of the gas tank area and the line is pretty rusty. I was wondering if anyone had an idea, or better yet a diagram of the routing of the brake lines?Thanks in advance.

Did it today. Everyhting was pretty easyl All the bolts came out relatively easy. The hardest part was getting the upright to let go of hub assembly. Some pounding and forcing it out go it out cleanly though.PB Blaster and force. Got the job done. All is well.

Well, I'm not tto scared of rust. The same bearing was done 2 years ago, and came out quite easily for that time.Thanks for the info though.:tup:

I am swapping my PS Front side Hub Assembly this weekend due to a bad wheel bearing.I don't have a shop manual around, and am in a pinch to find one.Anyone know the procedure for swapping the hub assembly? Any special things I should know? and MOST importantly, any special tools that I...

See though, I've looked at pictures on Advanced Auto's site. And d383 looks exactly like the pads I have. They give dimensions as well, and they are the same. Then though the dimensions for d532 are more suited towards my rear brakes. But Autozone lists d532 as for pre 11/94 build dates. My car...

They are too long. The part number they gave me is the part in their database for my car. I looked on their website, and basically, all signs are pointing to D383. Which is the part I've got.

No. Solid.

I've got a '95 Talon TSi AWD. Build date of March 1995. My rear pads are gone, and I went to autozone to pick up some cheap pads to throw on quick.I come home, go to put them on this AM, and they are not the right ones. They are too big.Part number is D383. I've searched the parts, and...

Doing a whole load of work on my car. My Turbo to manifold gasket is missing half of the one side.Went to go change it out, and I still had the stud in the Pass. front hole. I figured that the previous owner that had a 6bolt JDM swap done would of at least had that done, but alas. Now I know...

Still No ideas as to what is wrong. Noone has been able to give me some sort of direction as to what is going on. I'm pulling the S-AFC this afternoon because I can't figure out what the problem is.Does anyone have any clues as to why my car is acting up the way it is with the S-AFC?-2g...

First question, never made any adjustments to the fuel trims or anything. Second question, I never changed any of the settings, and it has always been on the correct setup for the car, so unless it somehow changed itself this time then should still be setup right, but I'll be sure to check and...

Happy with the lower idle...However, I apparantly still have something not right with it, my CEL came back tonite. I'm gonna get the code checked tomorrow and go from there.At least the car still runs perfectly. LOL!

Just thought I would update, i did go over my wiring once again and I screwed up the MAF wires...I straightened that out, and my Karmen readout is now working, CEL is off, and idle dropper 100 or so RPMs to a consistant 630 instead of 750.

Autozone has stopped scanning codes for free, due to liability or some b.s. such as that. So that kind of rules out that.

All setting have been zero'd out, but they weren't initially, so maybe I need to reset the ECU.As for the wiring, I'll have to go over things again. I thought I had all the wiring in correctly, but I must've missed something.

S-AFC is setup correctly as well...Also my Karman readout is always 3Hz. Is that supposed to be that way?

No, I didn't think the car would run differently with just the S-AFC. I'm not that retarded. :)I was merely stating that the car isn't behaving any differentely. I am waiting for datalogging before I start adjusting anything. I just got a really good deal on the S-AFC and couldn't pass it...

Installed a S-AFC today. Haven't done any tuning yet, still waiting on getting datalogging stuff...Now I've got this problem.CEL is on. No way to scan what code it is throwing, but I never had a CEL before. What's the likely problem?Car seems to be running exactly the same as it was...

Goo Gone...:thumb:Do not use gasoline. It is not good for the paint.

Still wondering...?

Also, has anyone had luck with this? Or am I better off just buying the palm package?

What style cable do I need to I need to datalog with a laptop, and can I use a USB convertor if the laptop doesn't have a seriel port?Any links would be greatly appreciated.

Your R/T is good, but doesn't change your ET or speeds.What was your 60ft, 1/8 et and MPH and 1/4 ET and MPH.Also, what were the temps that day. Regardless, it doesn't sound right at all. Plugs fresh?At the same time I'm not all familiar with the Auto's, but I know they are still quick.

Hey Shawn! Still love your car incredibly. Very sexy car.I'm picking up a 14b soon, and a logger and a S-AFC and see what I can do for next to nothing. :cool:

And here's my timeslip. The car I was up against that run was a Civic hatch, NA something or other...

Firstly, is everything in your suspension in perfect condition? Are your wheels perfectly balanced?My '95 TSi AWD shoke at higher speeds (~75+) only when my wheels were a little out of balance.I hope you need this for legitimate road course racing or track racing, and not street...

ANother somewhat "stupid" question, but My car is a 2g with a swapped 6bolt. Will it be using the 2g ECU still? When I get a datalogger, will I be looking for a 2g cable? Or 1g cable? And is there a way to tell on the ecu which one it is?I'm assuiming it would be using a 1g ECU simply...

No ACT 2100. It was done when the motor was swapped out. (Crankwalk is a bi***). I let her go from about 5k.

Sweet, thanks for the help. It prolly seemed like a stupid question, but I don't know jack about the tuning things.

Honestly shouldnt be too hard> i was out at the track last night.My car has '92 JDM 6 bolt swap with 2g exhaust manifold and T25 turbo in perfect condition. MBC pushing 17PSi, haggard homebrew o2 housing dump with stock exhaust system, on ahacked airbox with K&N filter, and I was able to put...

I'm looing to do some base tuning on my '95 Talon TSI AWD with a JDM 6 bolt swap. Now will I need an EPROM ECU to use an Apexi S-AFC? I have no idea personally as I am quite new to this, and haven't been able to find the answer anywhere.

Any other input from the tech-gurus?

Also, in these pages are some charts with some specs about the two turbos.http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htmand http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htmNow if you look at that second link, about a quarter way down, there is a chart, showing Max CFM and Max Practical...

Well as far as my plans, I'm not looking to go too crazy with the car right now. Looking for a slight upgrade over my T25 without having to get too far into supporting mods for the time being.Evo16g is in the cars future, but not in the near future. I was planning on going 14b, then found a...

Looking for info on the 15g turbo. Anyone familiar with it? How does it compare to the 14b? Flow? Lag?Any details appreciated.

http://www.belitski.com/vfaqhallman.htmlSeems like you have everything if you're using the Hallman.Either way, stock 2g fuel system, wouldn't risk more than 15psi.

You aren't going to hydrolock your motor froma few droplets of water. Hydrolocking takes a large amount of water to be sucked into the engine. basically a submersion of the intake. If it's just rain and mist that would be hitting the filter, then the damage is nil.

Well, my T25 is going to be shitting the bed soon likely. So i'm going to be in the market for a new turbo, and not looking to make huge power. The car is going to be setup for autox mostly when all is said and done. And for a $150 turbo, if I can squeeze a noticable gain of power out of the...

Well, i'm going to be on the cars current fuel system. I just want to make sure the 14b is my best option for a turbo with the limited budget I have. I don't have the room to buy injectors, a FMIC or stuff for extensive tuning.

Okay, here's my current situation. I'm looking to get some more pep out of my car currently, but I don't have the budget currently to do a 16g with supporting mods.Background of car, it's a '95 TSi AWD with a '92 JDM motor, Cyclone intake mani, 2g exhaust manifold, o2 housing with wastegate...

Start with minor things always before you jump to the big picture.If the shifter feels loose and disconnected, check the underhood shift linkages. They are going to be on top of the tranny kind of under the intake tube.

This is a GOOD thing. Any car I've ever driven does the same thing. In a perfect world, you should be giving that motor at least 2 minutes of idle before driving anyways. If you do drive it right after start up without any time, make sure the oil pressure is up, and I wouldn't take it up over 2k...

I can't seem to find anything, but is it possible to run a GM MAF without the translator. Everything I'm seeing puts the translator together with the sensor. I'm short on money and piecing the car together bit by bit.If it is possible, how does the wiring work?

Just for future reference, don't waste your time with WD-40 anymore if you need to free seized parts.PB Blaster is all you need.

My car did the EXACT same thing. The altenator was shot. Replaced it and the car ran perfectly.

Ahhhh, so Fiberglass insulation behind the speaker will clear it up a lot you say?I'm just running off my Aiwa HU. 45wx4 No idea on RMS.No sub. Don't want one. I have money to spend on the cars performance before worrying about sound that much. I just want to get the speakers I have...

Alright, I've been meaning to ask this for quite some time. Now I by no means want a loud, bumping stereo. All I want is some nice sound quality. I had 220w 3-way pioneer 6x9s that I mounted in the rear speaker location in my '95 Talon.Now, I had those speakers in 2 other cars before, and...

Eh, I wouldn't say it's like shit. They will ride more like a race car than a street car.

I *thought* the housings were the same for both turbos, just different wheels?