Well I've got a 4G64 7-bolt running strong, but more power can be made with a '63 stock block than mine. I topped out at 300whp on 91 octane. Others have made more on the lower compression 2.0L. My torque curve is pretty sweet though. I havn't taken it to the strip yet, but I'm guessing it's...
that 2g MAS S-AFC and injectors should all be one item. You either have fuel control or you don't Hold off on the 2g MAS until you have the ability to tune. The 1g MAS isn't going to hold you back on the stock turbo.
There's nothing wrong with using a '63 block. I used a NT '63 block to eliminate the oil squirters. Since you already have this block go with the JE, ross or wiesco stroker '63 piston. The difference with this piston is that it moves the wrist pin 6mm higher which puts it in the oil ring...
Tell your machinist to make one for you and you will pay 1/4 of his expence. This way he will be able to do other peoples 4G63 and have the plate already made. Make him understand it is good for his business to have one.In all honesty if he tells you it's not necessary or that he doesn't...
If your doing a stroker you will need a crank, pistons, rods, bearings, & rings. Polk is right about the clearancing issues. My engine builder had to relieve the main cap webs as well as the block in a couple places.If your buying a block for the project the 2.4L project will be the same...
I havn't degreed a stock set of cams, so I can't answer what the stock lobe separation is. Each cam comes with a cam card describing what the lobe separation should be. 106-113 deg is a common range for streetable cams on our cars. I have mine dialed in at 110 deg, but will play with that...
If you just want a 400whp 2.4L street/strip car that has a great powerband you should consider a 4G64 or 4GCS from a junkyard and leave the internals alone. 9.5:1 CR and 2.4L will spool a big turbo and with the boost low it should stay together.:shhh:
Yes, use a second motor for your build up. It's nice to have the spare around, and the downtime will be much shorter. I did what your thinking about and my car has now been threw a few motors and 10 months of downtime.
I run it on a 2g w/ stock ECU, no problems. No comment on sound, it's too subjective and I don't give a #### what it sounds like. I do care that it doesn't leak to 35psi, didn't test higher.
The main reason people use multiple throttle body intakes is for throttle responce not for HP. A single TB on a custom intake with bell shaped inlets in a properly sized plenum will allow you to run a smaller diameter intake runner (higher velocity) with the same flow in comparison to...
It's a straight swap. The front cover of the engines will be different (7-bolt vs 6-bolt) The water pumps, timing tensioner and tensioner arm are different, but if you leave everything from the front of the engine on both they will work. You will need a 6-bolt AWD flywheel to use with the...
It's related to timing, which is related to knock. So it is possible, but more likely you turned the boost up when you put in the tolulene and you turned it up past the boost creep threashold.
First off, clean it with degreaser, then use red locktite and torque it, off the engine in a vise, till you think your going to break it. From memory I think the FSM states 35 ft-lbs, but don't take my word on it until you check the manual. Which you do have because you own a DSM right? ;)...
I ordered a FMIC race kit on Sept 30th. He said it would take 2 weeks to recieve. It was 6 weeks before it shipped.When I recieved it a bunch of fins were bent. And the piping didn't line up right.I have given him ample time to correct the problem and he is now ignoring my phone...
Well VP sells them, but I wouldn't recomend them. They have terrible service. They promise parts, don't deliver and then when the parts arrive they don't fit. After they don't fit, they won't take a return.Basically they are chumps, working out of a garage who can't do things right. Hell...
Maybe this is a dumb question but does anyone here have timeslips with either turbo? I know the L1R is new, but I would want some timeslips or seat time to make my choise.
I vent just fine. You only get problems with idle if you have a shitty (leaking/weak) BOV. Use a Tial, problem solved. Shift at WOT, problem solved.As for hearing the BOV vent, your just lame. You should hear it vent once, at the end of the track where nobody is around to hear it. ;)...
How much rice do you want with it?Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Tial has a great product, but probably overkill for you.The Greedy is good if your staying under 20psi and want some rice. If you don't need rice get a 1g BOV.Of course all this is in the tuning guide, but your...
Why don't you guys just tell him that this is very normal for a turbo? Hello! Push it at night and pop the hood, bright red manifold, turbine housing, and O2 housing. Nothing special.
:DYo DaWg, I wOulDn't GeT aNy of ThOse TurBo's CaUse yoUr jusT goNNa gEt sMokEd by me and mY SicK A$$ CaValiEr YO!I PuT 20 shoT of NaWs on and I'm pulLin' Mad 2.9 SecOnd 60 fOOt timeS. I trap at 78mph DooD, tha'ts Faster thaN the Speed LiMIt.HAHAA, damn it was hard to type that...
You can put a '91 block in your '99. But unil you bend a rod, spin a bearing, or get crankwalk I wouldn't see why you would want to.NT blocks don't have the oil squirters, everything else is the same.
Knife edge and ligtening are often done together. Knife edge is to let the crank spin through the oil better (not in the pan the oil suspended in the crank case often refered to as windage). It basically shapes the counterbalance of the crank like a teardrop for lower coefficient of drag...
~ 3" inlet, 2.5" outlet. It looks like a full T4 to me, but I can't tell w/o looking at the turbine bolt pattern. I'd guess it's a To4e compressor housing.Heres a thought! Measure it! ;)
If you've never measured a bore, then I propose your talking out your ass.Forged is good, pistons slap isn't important if it's not slapping when your reving the engine.
Its a total waste with the stock turbo to install retainers/springs. Until you have a turbo that can hold full boost past redline you don't need stiffer springs or lighter retainers. The cams don't require any supporting mods, your just going to get worse idle, and worse gas milage. You might...
Is the ESI turbo? If so use a wet kit, not dry. Milage has nothing to do with N2O use. I don't think you know what your doing, and I don't think you should use it. But if you want to learn that's the best way.
Your still learning. A big turbo will get you off the line quick when you learn how to drive. Both those turbos will feel similar. I doubt I could tell a difference if I wasn't told about it.