More great info, thanks!I've got longer brake hoses already (an old Buschur kit), so that 3000GT part might have worked for me... RockAuto's inventory is the one that failed me. If you order those parts expect a phone call the next day saying they don't actually have it... :-/ I've...
Thanks for all the info!This caliper is not salvageable, the piston is rusted/pitted beyond reuse/rebuild. I hunted around for a few hours and only found 1 place that had the part listed as in stock (showed they had 4 left). Placed the order last night and then today got an alert that...
I'm using the Nokian WR G2s. I appreciate the fact that I can use them year round. I'd say they're about 95% of a top end snow/ice only tire... Good enough for rallyes in MI in Winter time as long as I'm careful!
First off, I've got a left rear that's locking up. Oddly the caliper seems OK when hanging loose. Piston pushes in easily enough it seems. However, if I slip it over the pads and press the brakes it locks solid. One suggestion was a problem with the brake line swelling (I have SS Braided...
Yeah, I can imagine the balance might not be perfect. Don't the replacement parts and even the rust and mud covering the driveshafts/in the joints throw it off too though?I don't see any point to used carrier bearings when new stock ones are reasonably priced. These driveshafts used are...
Well, it's been an adventure. The best used driveshaft I could get was still in really rough shape. So, I gave it to the local shop because they have better tools. They still struggled with the rebuild due to its condition, but were able to find another partial driveshaft and make one good...
It took another month of driving around, but the problem is visible now. "Front" carrier bearing is shot. It's got so much play now that my driveshaft has started hitting my exhaust. "Rear" carrier bearing seems OK, but will have that replaced too. Looks like it's going to be a big mess...
Well, couldn't save it. The wheel hub/axle assembly is not going to be reusable. Where do you guys throw out heavyish, but relatively small car parts like that? Will scrapyards take parts that small?
OK, I guess the profile thing changed? All my old info was gone. I built a new one best I could from memory. Probably missed a few items. I definitely don't remember my timeslips or dyno tq accurately anymore...
Rear. 2G. Only mods in that area are that Megan Racing toe arms replaced the stock ones (after they seized up preventing an alignment after other suspension repairs and I had to cut them out with a sawzall).
How does one go about removing wheelstuds from the hub?They feel like they have slots on the back for a large phillips screwdriver, but there's no way to get something like that in the back while assembled on the car (and I'm told this can be done on the car). I've tried driving them out like...
It's a '95 (October '94 build date, so has the different rear brakes, etc.).I've got a known good bulb & base in the oil pressure light slot now (unless it suddenly failed now too!). I found that the old one was bad by trading with other locations.
Thanks!Well, appears there's a problem elsewhere... No light with the wire grounded. I guess it's going to be fun with wiring time... Or maybe just time for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge setup...
Should the oil pressure light come on when the oil pressure switch is disconnected?The backstory:I noticed my oil pressure gauge was getting "stuck" down near the bottom (it actually no longer drops all the way to the bottom when off) in the mornings. Didn't think to much of it at first...
Update. Beautiful day today AND I actually had some free time. Swapped over to a different set of wheels and tires, no change. Checked every moving bit rearward of the t-case. Rear axles have the tiniest amount of play (just enough to click, right side only requires light force, left side...
Hadn't considered a belt issue in the tire. That does sound like it would fit my symptoms. I've got a set of old worn out Pilot Sports still in a pile in the garage. Easy to test the tires if the weather cooperates. If I can get a day when the roads aren't snowy/icy, I can swap those on for...
So, for the past few months (and around 2000 miles of driving) I've had this obnoxious sound from the rear of my '95 GSX. Starts at about 20mph and is pretty loud. Sounds like it's coming from both rear wheels. Resonates quite a bit at expressway speeds (made worse by the fact that the car...
I may have found the root cause. While reassembling I noticed that the alternator can shift a little on the pivot, resulting in a slightly different angle on the pulley. Instead of letting it settle naturally, I held it over towards the other end of travel while tightening. The belt is...
I've been through a couple sets of belts already. Does not change anything. I've looked for anything wobbling/grooving, nothing found so far. I don't have A/C.The alternator drive is definitely involved. In the past, I've noticed it with power steering as well. Now that you mention it...
So, my DSM has had the cold start 10 second squeal going on for a few years now. It has recently also developed the squeal when the lights and defroster are on. So, I really need to get this fixed as that's unacceptable! :-)Belts are all tight and the water pump, power steering pump, and...
Let's say I've got lots of spare time on my hands and want to replace the balljoints in a pair of spare rear toe arms just for fun...How are they to be removed? Is there anything special to be done with the bottom cap, or do you just press until the cap blows off of the arm? I've seen...
I've never had the wheels on and off a car so many times in one day. :-)Despite the brake dust shields all looking fine, one of them was the culprit. I ran a small screwdriver around to check clearances and they all seemed fine/similar. Was thinking my next step would be to pull all the...
Clip-on-lip. Both inside and outside, but they're very slim.Clearances look good. All the suspension ends are pretty much tucked behind the rotor. Slight extension past here and there, but the stock brakes are pretty small. Clearance to the rim edge is quite large. Over an inch I'm...
Last year at this time, the car didn't make any bad noises. :-) Then in the Summer, the left rear wheel bearing failed and turned into a really big deal. When I finally got the car back in January (with a new axle and upright), it would make an occasional very light scraping sound under hard...
I've got myself a couple of beautiful spacers that look like they should have come with the arm. Perfect fit. Thanks to the guys at Accelerated Performance, just a couple miles down the street from my house, who knocked them out real quick on the lathe.
Found a local shop that can whip up some spacers for me. Looks like the I.D. is actually .480" on mine (using the shop saves me buying a lathe, but then again I don't get to learn how to do this myself yet :hmm: ). Is that .380" a typo? Just want to get any necessary corrections in the...
No camera unfortunately. Web site picture at Megan Racing but it doesn't really show anything interesting.Official spacing difference number is a big help. I can make something up with that (and also check to make sure things are really how I think they are under there. A part number for a...
Looks like they're a little bit undersized for AWD (presumably this is an FWD fitment that they also happen to sell as AWD compatible)?Anyone have a recommendation on what to use as a spacer to make them fit properly? Or some other solution I'm overlooking (I'm not missing something stupid...
Interesting. I'll definitely keep that in mind. Those parts should be readily available locally too. One of my concerns is always future parts availability (having recently run into issues with discontinued parts for both of my cars and my motorcycle!), but there's a billion Sebrings on the...
Thanks for all the input! :thumb:I put in a call to my local shop to see if they carry the Megan Racing arms. For my particular use case those are my first choice. I want the adjustment on the bar like they both have, but I don't have any need for the spherical bearing and bump steer...
So, we replaced a whole bunch o' stuff in the left rear recently. Went for the alignment and was sad to find that the rear toe arms were now frozen on both sides (and the left rear is horribly toed in). Looks like I'll be cutting them out. The question comes on the repair side...The arms...
Is there anything special about the 2g rear brake (I have the larger bore, with the vented rear disc configuration) calipers?This isn't my first caliper rebuild, and it really was in pretty good shape, was just sticking a little, nowhere near as bad as the ones I did before.However, I...
Good info, thanks! Dearborn's just a short run up into MI for me. When (if?) the weather breaks I might just go ahead and see if they can do anything with this bad one. Wouldn't mind having another spare! :-)
Miller supplied some top notch used parts. Brand new wheel bearing ($55) used along with spindle and axle for left side from them. Rest of the rearend parts all going into storage for when the right side fails. Didn't try and force the old rear parts anymore, still don't see anyway they're...
Maintenance is not the issue. It would be easier if I DID go through bearings every other year. Then they'd stand a chance of coming out. :-) I'll have to grab you guys some pics when I get a chance, you have no idea how badly trashed this stuff is. Seriously, this isn't just "kinda stuck"...
Yeah, sorry, whichever is different for LSD. I swore I thought it was the outer, but must be the inner if you say so. It's been up on the lift for a couple months now, and the last month it's just been basically hanging out, with nothing being done to it, so I can't remember which is which...
I don't have any pics handy, but changing a 19 year old 2g rear wheel bearing is much easier said than done. Everything's rusted together and comes apart in chunks (and can't be reused). You know you're in trouble when the I-beam on the hydraulic press starts bending and the axle still won't...
Believe me, I'd much rather replace the parts that are damaged beyond reuse. However, that doesn't appear to be possible anymore as not all the 2g AWD specific rear end parts are available from the factory anymore, the aftermarket doesn't provide them, and all the used ones out there also seem...
What's the bare minimum parts I need to swap to go from AWD to FWD? Can we pull the driveshaft, replace the rear-end and hack/weld anything in the trans to make it not care that there's nothing to drive back there anymore? I have a trans with some really nice custom built internals in it, hate...