Just curious, are you still on the stock cat? I'm a little concerned about how they are going to treat my aftermarket 3" cat with the new CO rules, even though I have never had any issues passing the roller test.

What bases were you stationed on? I spent many years on Yokota AFB, but have been to pretty much every base in/around Tokyo at least once.

The ISC won't generally move unless the car is running and it's actively trying to adjust idle. That being said, if you reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery terminal, on first power up the ecu will go into a "rehoming" mode for the ISC and you should hear and see it move provided...

Is that another 2g in the house behind you? Cool project also by the way. :)

I think the 1g knock sensors work fairly well. They can get a little overactive when the black silicone on the backside starts to fail but other than that I've not really seen issues with them that couldn't be explained by something external like lifters.

Haha! Let us know what you find.

Ok, good, so sensor power is verified good. And you verified that the autometer sensor output is going to pin 15 on the ECU? A good test to try would be to remove the autometer sensor output from the ecu and just measure it with a multimeter by itself. It should follow this table that shows...

Maybe we can help you figure it out. Where are you measuring 4.47V and how are you measuring it? I'm assuming you have 3 wires connected to the sensor (sensor 5V from ecu, sensor ground from ecu, and EGR input)? Are you measuring 4.47V from sensor 5V to sensor ground? You wouldn't happen to...

I believe you need the buckle also, but I can't remember for sure. It's probably a good idea to get that just in case. I did not have to trim. I believe I took that black cover off the retractor, but I'd have to open things up to find out for sure. As you can see though, no trimming...

2g seatbelts will work also. You don't get the B pillar plastics like you do from the Canadian cars, but you get better retractors and they are easier to find. It's what I'm using in my car right now.

There are a lot of factors when it comes to spool. Compression could definitely be part of it. 125 seems pretty low. Ignition timing during spool can affect it. You can try to increase or decrease in the spool up range to see if it makes a difference. Turbine housing can make a difference...

I might have missed it, but if you only replaced the capacitors in that ecu that you have a picture of in post # 9 and didn't repair the trace that is under it, your ISC will not work properly. That trace goes to one of the ISC drivers, so you'll have to get that repaired before it works...

Very cool stuff! Curious, what data are you looking to port over to CAN bus? Is there anything in particular you are looking to interface to over CAN?

Wow, welcome! Such an interesting thread. Brings back so many memories. I spent quite a few summers in Korea visiting family (my mother was born there). Most of my time was spent around Osan, Seoul, and a tiny farm town call Kimjae where I watched my mom help her parents in the rice patties...

I remember the Talon digest days. I was a poor college student at the time so I wasn't able to afford much with my DSM back then.Todd or Tom? I think Tom Stangl was running the VFAQ site. I met him once. He drove out from California and met up with some of us from Colorado to drive...

I can think of 2 things it would possibly affect: 1 - launch control. I believe ECMLink uses the speed sensor input to determine when to switch from the normal rev limiter to the launch rev limiter 2 - coasting fuel cut. This isn't a huge deal, but it could affect driveability somewhat. With...

That link I included in my post from extremepsi has all of the options for the timing components. You can select the oem parts. You can even choose the gates waterpump instead of the oem. I'll bet RTM racing has all of that stuff also. JNZ tuning will as well.

Oem is definitely going to be more expensive. Here's a kit that has everything: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Extreme-PSI-Timing-Belt-Kit-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html I didn't realize how much more the oem water pump is. That's a big difference. It all comes down to what risk you are...

I'll comment on a few of these. For rotors, I would go with the cheapest rotors you can find that you trust. Dimples and slots aren't going to do you any good on a stock car. Save your money there. Since your car is a 92, do you have single piston front calipers? If so, I would upgrade...

I just did this earlier in the year on my 92. My car also has AC. It couldn't figure out a way to remove all of the stock brake lines with everything in place so I cut the stock lines. This allowed me to remove everything without having to remove the intake manifold. Putting the new non abs...

Love the work you did on the cyclone manifold. Would you mind sharing what material you used for the diy gaskets you made? Sorry if you already mentioned it and I just missed it.

Dumb question, but do you still have the PTU mounted to the stock bracket or some large metal piece? The transistors need a good heatsink to keep the part from exceeding temperature specs, especially with it being in a hot engine bay.

I recommend the Aeroquip EZ clip system. It's what I used on my car and I recommended it to another member that had success with it. The tools are pretty inexpensive and it's easy to use. Their catalog has a number of fittings that you'd just have to match up, or you can use their ez clip...

I have a used FP race manifold for sale. Hasn't been used since it was swaintech coated. $270 shipped.

Do you still have the stock chip for the ecu? If so, you could pop that in to see if the check engine light comes on and the boost gauge moves. If it does then that points to something wrong with the ecmlink chip. If not, then there is something wrong with the ecu.

Probably a dumb question, but how does the degree wheel connect to the crank? Is anything provided to make that setup easier since there isn't much room in that area of the engine bay.

I have a set of H&R lowering springs for a 1g. Only reason for selling them is I went to ground control coilovers. Springs are in good shape and give you about 1" of drop. Selling for $80 + actual cost of shipping to a destination of your choice.

I just checked my old inner tie rods and the thread on mine is 14x1.5.

I believe it is M14x1.5.I used the following part for the bump steer kit I made: Allstar ALL56280 https://allstarperformance.com/bump-steer-kit-all56280/ The stud wasn't as long as I was hoping and I haven't actually measured bump steer with a gauge, so I don't have any info regarding that...

I haven't looked at your log yet, but the second picture of the ecu looks concerning to me. The negative lead for capacitor C108 has some brown around the lead where it goes into the board. That's not the way that should be. It should be all silver from the solder. It looks like whoever did...

Same questions as above, but also, did you happen to weigh them without the sliders before they went in? Thanks!

For sale is a rare set of UHMW Polyethylene rear subframe bushings for a 1g. These were made a really long time ago by a member before polyurethane bushings were available. I have no use for these anymore. $70 shipped.

Sweet!!!How is the height on the sway bar heim adjusted? Does the heim need to be disconnected from the sway bar and rotated to adjust the height? Thanks for offering these!

Have you looked into this: http://dealers.linkecu.com/EVO3PlusIt might provide more of the features you are looking for since V3 Lite is a little limited. I haven't personally used this ecu or heard much about them, other than seeing at least one DSMer purchase one recently to try.

Thanks for the details about your setup. Question for you, though. I'm curious what setup you are using that allows you to get that much negative camber in the front? I believe my ground control camber plates only allowed me to get about -2.5 to -3 degrees in the front.Hope you get the...

Any chance for a bent upper control arm option like the Ingalls arms? Cioc has experienced problems with the straight tube arms before. His experience can be seen in post #104 here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/rear-lower-control-arms-how-to.365660/page-5

Post #7 has the link to the condenser that I used. I do still have the special tools. If you decide to go the same route, you are more than welcome to borrow them. It's been great. I do have a small leak that I have been too lazy to figure out. I'm going to try to track it down this year...

Thanks. Here is the condenser I have: http://www.ackits.com/12-0651c-parallel-flow-condenser-12-x-14-33323?search=12-0651CThe lines were Eaton/Aeroquip EZ clip lines. Looks like you can pick these up under the name Vintage air also at Summit/Jegs now. I think they are just using the Eaton...

I found an old post I did a while back on codsm. I went to the extreme, but it might give you a few ideas. I did ducting like you describe where I sealed as much as I could so air would go through the radiator. I believe I ended up using foam strips to seal the FMIC to the radiator support...

The ecu case number does not match the ecu board number. That ecu has 1683 stamped on it which corresponds to E2T61683 p/n MD326328 for a 2g 7/96-5/97 years.You can find the info here: http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/ECUID.html

The manual actually calls for a special tool that presses the new bearing in. This tool uses a bolt that gets torqued to a certain value. This allows the tool to apply the correct force to the bearing to keep it from being pressed in too little or too much as you are seeing. I ended up buying...

The carbon lining is to provide a path for the built up charge inside the hose to safely dissipate before arcing through the teflon to the braided shielding that's on the outside of the hose and causing small holes in the teflon. Not saying that I've ever heard of that happening in an...

I know I've heard of a lot of people running the non carbon impregnated PTFE hose and not having any issues.From the research I did, it seemed to be a Mil spec and aviation requirement to have the carbon impregnated hose for safety reasons. They are obviously designing with a lot more...

It's been a while since I've done a compression test on my car, but from what I remember I've always seen no higher than about 120 to 125 on my 2 1gs (including my 90k mile one now). Low compression by itself doesn't hurt anything, especially when all the cylinders are fairly even like yours...

Ha, we were probably at some of the same events back in the day. I think I joined CODSM back in 97 or so. I do miss some of those work days and gatherings that the club used to have.

Holy cow! That's a name I haven't seen in years!!!!On topic, though, it's so hard to judge price for these cars now. I'd say somewhere between $3500 and $4500 based on a quick search for what I see on craigslist.

I've had good luck ordering some parts from here:ACKITS.com Automotive Air Conditioning Parts & Equipment.I didn't replace the compressor, though, but they seem to show a part number for a compressor if you look up Eagle Talon.

Honestly, I would save the money on coatings and get a good blanket depending on what manifold you have. I've got my 2g manifold swaintech coated and while it did seem to cool off faster, it still gets very hot.I then bought and installed one of these, and it's resulted in a huge decrease...

Just thought I'd include a picture of how I mounted my catch can. I was having a hard time finding a good place for it on my 1g since I still have ABS, so I came up with an idea to mount it to the strut tower bar. Luckily, I have a friend that has a mill in his garage, so I was able to do this...

Thanks! I agree, but I'm biased. :) Good luck on the retest.