you are still going to need a tube nut and tube sleve if you flare it to 37* but if you are flareing it to 45* (what it was flared to stock) and using the original fitting you will be fine.
awsome this is the info i was looking for!! Im going to be upgrading the tranny cooler at the same time anyway and was planning on locating it in the same place as the stock smic. Im actaully getting a new shell and getting everything set up to drop my motor trans in since some idiot hit me...
I am in the market for a FMIC for my 1g AWD w/ auto tranny. I went to install an old punishment kit that i bought from a friend this summer and the auto tranny was getting in the way so I gave up for the time being and just kept my supra smic. I was wondering what kits if any out there will...
Im running a fp68 hta, magnus street SMIM, built slowboy stage 4 head, and a built bottom end with 8.5:1 compression (i believe). I currently am running fp2 cams but with the head being built and ported and running the SMIM it seems like i should have a cam that keeps making power after 7200...
I also think it was a legitimate question pertaining to the thread and was also wondering the same thing.I'll answer from my experience, but I also want to know what the more experienced auto guys are running as, I only got into autos in March. I am running antilag starting at 3000 rpm any...
so whats the general consensus on this wastegate mod? Im looking to run around 25psi on my big 16g with e-85 but am considering just wireing the wg flapper shut since my motor is built and i have all the supporting mods to max out the 16g. I may just try it anyway because im pretty sure i can...
did that a long time ago and several times after that. i wouldnt have been getting anything but third with that blown. and with the shift box it doesnt use that fuse. however i rewired in the shift box yesterday and it is working fine now. i dont know if in my exhaustion/fustration i looked...
Ive been messing around with this automatic transmission all weekend. About 2 weeks ago the TCU ate the dust and is completly shot. So a friend of mine let me borrow a tcu and it did screwy things; shiftpoints were way off and it would randomly downshift then upshift and it shifted very hard...
Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com
Ive been searching the site for a few hours now or info on manually shifting the automatic transmission, so please forgive me if i missed what i am looking for. That link was given to me by a friend and I am considering doing it but had a few questions about it...
Well #### this makes me wish i hadnt sold my other car. i had k sport coilovers all the poly bushings and motor mounts except i way to much if the form of power and internal mods to compete in esp even though i did. i usually got 3rd outta 5 cars. im not a newb to autox i just want to get...
whats better for autox a 1g awd or a 2g awd? i know 2gs have way more options for suspension. ive already had a 1g awd with ksport coilovers and it still wasnts all the great my roomates s14 with ksports handled 10 times better
Ok ive been into the straight line racing for a while and dabbeld in Auto-x last year. Im out of the strightline stuff and sold my 91 talon. now i have a 90 awd thats basically stock. I want to get into autox competitivly and am debating if i should stick with a dsm platform or make the jump to...
i cant find this thread from atleast 3 if not 4 years ago where a guy i believe from nevada built a 4g63 rwd 70s colt. i had subscribed to it but its not showing up. Help! im contemplating do this myself over the next year or so and it would be a great resource
Ok this just randomly started happening yesterday.... When I turn the key to the on or accessory position I get no power to the accessories like radio etc etc. Also when the key is out and I open the door the seatbelt is supposed to move to the front or w/e but it doesnt, but if i start the car...
ima have to keep an eye on this thread. i can get my car to hold any more than 20psi with an initial spike to 26psi and im trying to run 28-30 psi oh and this is on a fp 18gsl2 that i had upgraded to a 20g compressor wheel. I really dont wanna have to shell out for an external set up.
ya that really does sound like it. thanks for the response. so who should i look to for tranny rebuilds on a budget but obviously not a stock rebuild i have a knack for breaking trannies.
Ok so what would cause it to be hard to find. all the other gears 1st 3rd 4th 5th and reverse are all there but 2nd is way at the bottom of the shifter throw. sometimes i will think its in gear and give it gas but its not other times it will get in gear. I was doing some racing friday night and...
ok sounds like i will and its gonna be like 50 after everything is said and done but thats pennies compared to some dejon tool ones even used. Also i already have a hard intake pipe and that made a huge difference with a 2g maf. what size should i got with 2 1/4 or 2 1/2
Ive been considering getting some hard piping for my stock sidemount but im not sure if its worth the money as come spring or so i will be going with a front mount. I have a friend with a pipe bender and can get the pipe bent and necked to what ever i want for 25 bucks. My question is how much...
when do you think the new 1in wider core will be available?? Also how did you do your j-pipe ive been looking for one other than SBRs. Also do you think you will be able to keep your fogs with that core?
ok i had a leak at my water injection nozzle/injector and a large pin sixe hole in the up neck on the inter cooler. i jbwelded the heck out of the intercooler neck as it was pitted alot in that are and im letting it cure over night hopefully tomorrow will yeild some posative results.
no luck with regapping the plugs and 18psi today at lunchtime when it was like 100 out it would bog at 4000-4500rpm like there was a boost leak and similair to what happens at 6k just no knock im going to do a boost leak test here one the car has cooled off a little more.
i was reading that the efficiany range on the 14b is about 21 psi. and im still on the stock smic but have water/meth injection. i regapped the plugs but havent taken her back out yet ill do a pull on the way to work tomorrow and if its still acting up ill turn the boost down. would the turbo...
I just turned the boost up to 20psi after installing my MLS HG and ARP head studs and cams, along with my water/meth injection. Been slowly getting it tuned and its no knock to maybe 5 counts until 5900 rpm on a 88/12 water/meth mix right now. Well when after 5900 it jump to 21 and 43 by 6k...
hook a pressure source up to the nipple on the wastegate and see if the arm moves and opens the wategate. Also have you replaced or checked your knock sensor. That would cause power loss problems but not the boost spike problems.
thank god i finnaly nailed it down. as for the oil i was thinking i was burning it because i wasnt seeing any spots under my car anymore but thats becuase there was so many previous spots lol. we are moving and i was parked at the new house and sure engough when i pulle dout of the garage there...
Update i did another leak down test and checked at teh tb elbow and i can definatly feel air coming out there and i also sealed off the exhaust with a bag and it inflated so i move the cylinders around a little bit o see if they were off but they werent. So im assuming this means my valves are...
i made sure the cylinder was at tdc i did this while the engine was warm. The air was coming out of the breather valve but it wasnt hot air like it went down threw the crankcase/block first more like it was coming threw the head. the car doesnt over heat the car doesnt visibly burn oil and my...
Oh well i have been having a problem with excessive crankcase pressure lately when i would perform a boost leak test. The breather vent on the passenger side of the valve cover would have alot of air coming out. This worried me beciase my frieds 91 tsi has no air comin out during a boost leak...
its a bad idea still to have that in there. The would be no way to adjust the idle. Im not saying its not a TB gasket it sound like it is he just asked if he should remove the stuff in there.
Well i did another boost leak test today. I check the pcv valve and it does not leak under pressure. I am still getting alot of air coming out of the valve cover vent on the pass side. Also after thetest when i started it it smoked a little bit. I wont beable to do a compression test untill...
well for one you shouldnt be getting on it before the car warms up. Could you explain the idle problem more??? Is it just idleing very high or is it surging. if its just idling high thats common mine does it but come down after its warmed up if its surging check you iac or tps according to your...