The service manual calls it the "Front Deck Garnish"-- I thought that was funny. Anyway, I want to take that plastic grill thing off that's under the windshield and wipers, so I can paint it black (it's badly faded). I see in the service manual how it's installed, but I don't get how to get...
You definitely need to check with AEM. There's some issue with getting the EMS to work with the stock TCU that causes problems. One guy a few years ago got it work (don't remember his name), but he said it was very difficult.
And the other verdict is to take a few minutes and actually read some of the thread if you're interested in the answer instead of asking to be spoon-fed.
I have that exact Dejon 1G adapter on my SSQV knockoff and it works great-- it's a really nice piece. Just for extra leak protection, I applied RTV around the inside edge between the adapter and BOV before I mounted the adapter to the intercooler piping. As I mentioned before, no leaks at up to...
Ooh, good timing on this thread. I was just told that my tie rod ends were shot as well, but I think the guy said inner tie rod ends. Are those just as easy to replace as the outers?
1) I'm not sure but I could guess if you want. Probably keeps the A/C from coming on above 5000 RPM.
2) Makes the stock boost gauge register knock. Do it.
3) Prevents ECU from getting nervous about seeing too much air and thus shutting down the engine. DEFINITELY do it.
4) They're asking you if...
Yeah, me too-- I've read differing stories about how much this pump can handle. I have a Walbro pump laying around here somewhere that a buddy of mine gave me a while back. Now if I could only find it, I could tell if it's a 190 or a 255...
Violator, sounds like a good plan. My fuel trims were pretty dead on the last time I checked them, but it's been a while. Definitely time to recheck them-- good call. All the timing sliders are at zero, and on a knock-free run (like yesterday with the 110 gas), I get 15.2 degrees of timing...
Peak airflow is just over 37 lbs/min. RRE says the VR4 pump is rated at 180lph at 12V at 43 PSI. For comparison, the Walbro 190 is rated at like 168 lph at 12 volts.
I cannot get rid of some persistent knock at about 5000 RPMs and up. I've added fuel to the point of not wanting to add more (I'm at about +3 on the DSMLink fuel sliders for 5000 and up). I'll be doing yet another boost leak test REAL soon, but short of that, is there maybe a possibility that my...
I dunno-- RRE says that the VR4 pump at 12 volts flows 180lph @ 43 PSI @ 12V, while the 190 flows 168.45 lph @ 43 PSI @ 12.5 V. I guess this is a case of choose who you want to believe, although stealth316's real world test data seems pretty convincing. Anyway, if you want to be the king, just...
To update, my core had a small leak in it (internal, not DV/DT's fault) so I sent it back in. Albert replaced it free and shipped it back to me last week. And this is after I had the kit for about a year.The new core is now on the car, but I haven't had it dynoed or anything yet. I had the...
You should definitely add a bigger tranny cooler. The stock one is like the size of a shoe. I went with the B&M SuperCooler; I think the model # is 70268. It's the 8 x 11 one. I mounted it where the stock SMIC was, since I did it at the same time as my FMIC install.
I've been told that the LubeGard actually makes the fluid MORE "slippery," not less (still looking for confirmation on that...). Supposedly the LG just puts the coefficient of friction in the proper range that the Mitsu tranny wants. If you're making significantly more HP than stock, though, it...
I'm not sure. Mine would just flare when it shifted into O/D, so I went ahead and changed the end clutch right then. I have heard of it acting both ways-- just revving, and not going into O/D at all.
Anybody having problems with it surging/fluttering after it's been adjusted? My SSQV flutter annoys me sometimes and I've been pointed toward the Forge BOV.
That might be kinda cool. Although I don't need reminders of how old I am... :DSomeone mentioned Aslan (NosLaser) earlier. He's more into Mustangs now-- I see him occasionally. I just got a Mustang too (still have the DSM), so I still seek his advice every now and then.
Sounds about right. I agree with gotlag in that a flush isn't that crucial. A do-it-yourself drain and refill will use about 7 quarts. I use the Mobil 1 synth ATF with no problems. My tranny shop recommended not putting in the LubeGard, which disagrees with what IPT recommends; I'm still torn...
Depending on your local racetrack, the answer may be different. You might not pass tech with your battery in the back unless it's in a sealed box, even if it's an Optima.
Actually the VR4 pump outflows the Walbro 190*, but still, you won't need an AFPR for it. I ran it for about a year with no problems and only recently got an AFPR.* VR4 pump at 12 volts is 180 lph, while Walbro at 12.5 volts is 168 lph if you look at those RRE pages closely. The "190" rating...
Call a dealership with the serial number of the radio and they'll give you the code (well, some won't because they're asses, and some will try to charge you-- keep calling around until you find one that's cooperative). The S/N for the radio is right on top of it in the front-- just pop off the...
Yeah, good link. That's what originally inspired me to upgrade the supply line from filter to rail. I still think that he should just try the banjo bolt elimination and see if that's good enough. When I put an Earl's filter inline with the -6AN line, it caused my car to run unbelievably rich, so...
I've been told by several sources that the stock filter, once you remove the banjo bolt thing, isn't much of a restriction. I don't have any definitive flow numbers (GPH or whatever) for it though. I'd try just the banjo bolt elimination kit first and see how that goes, and then upgrade the...
Mark, if you just need the fuel rail -AN adapters, Diamond Star Motorsport has them, as well as Auto Alchemy. I think other places too, but those are a start. They're about $25 apiece. I have a -6AN line from the filter to the rail and it works fine. There's an adapter by Goodridge that screws...
That TC looks pretty good. About the valve body, though, I don't really see putting down almost four bills for another one if you already have a shift kit installed in the one you have now. The cost benefit ratio is not in your favor on that one, IMO. I'd think you could find much better bang...
Well the AGP kit (usually one of the "Featured Products" links at top of this page) and the SlowBoy kit both use the same core and are a few hundred less.