to all of u dsmers w/ a front mount intercooler, i was just wonderin if u guys get the hot start problem. i'm still runnin the factory side mount and once in while i'll get the hot start problem. sometimes i think it's the little side mount that's causing it due to the fact that it's so small...

No offense but your nowhere close to using this cold of a plug. Put them in your snowmobile. If anything you'll have a studdering startup. Yes, the colder the plugs, the lower the knock but sometimes it's not needed.

:thumb: Start there.

A FMIC is most effective in third gear and up. Headstuds aren't considered internals as the fastest DSM with stock internals has upgraded studs. BTW, you forgot about a ML HG or metal HG. Where in my previous post did you happen to see me saying that leaded fuel was "needed?"

Use a J-pipe. Cut it about 2 inches away from the flange and weld it so that the pipe goes the opposite way. Use an L-pipe to connect that to the last pipe that bends around and connects to the IC.

Cams and a FMIC will only help out the mid-to-top end. The old butt dyno won't feel much of a difference but just a bit in 3rd gear when the FMIC really kicks in. Both are really streetable.Thermal R&D exhaust w/ a silencer??? Is that somethin new?Stock internals can do you around...

What gear/s does it do this in?

50-trims are great for 11s but not 10s (for the average DSMer). Not much of a jump from a 16G...you'll probably be disappointed. Maybe you should research more and lay the groundwork for a 10sec setup.60-1...spool? Maybe 15psi around 4k RPMs but definitely not 27psi. Get what I mean? It is...

Well, you answered your own question basically. Sounds like your runnin pig rich. Bigger injectors + aft. fuel pump and no fuel control?? Your engine is basically flooding itself. At the very least, get an AFC...standalone is always great.

Is your heat shield on? What's the use, really, if your fan is blowing but your weather strip by the wipers and hood is still in place? First things you should have tried was switching radiator caps (get an EVO one) and doing a manual radiator flush (leave radiator cap off, turn heat on and to...

There is very little benefit if not any. AFC is way too limited. There are many other devices out there that cost a little more. I personally went with stand alone for driveability purposes. I would respond the same to the original poster as well.

Even a 190lph will overrun it. It's not a big deal unless you're fine tuning.

Fuel cut is a good thing. It's their for a reason, to save your motor. I wouldn't get a fuel cut defender without a logger. What color are your plugs?

What you could do:run straight h2o (risk of rust in future) keep fan on weld bar to duct air from undercar to radiator remove weatherstripping just under wiper blades flush radiatorYou think 19 psi is bad, try 27psi.

Symptoms of a clogged cat are as you've described more noticeably hard start up. They are also known to backfire all the way through the intake filter as well when you try and start it up.Gas stations who have poor maintenance will have water in their gas causing the cat to be clogged even...

Your intake and IC should be fine at the boost level. I'd swap in EVO injectors or 2G injectors just to see how it would react. Boost leak test is also a good idea.

Yep, sell it. They crap out a lot too.

Pop the tranny open and check the input shaft. Have you been trying to launch it?

Mine blew @27 lbs

A lighter flywheel is not needed, especially with a stock clutch and little to no racing. The exhaust w/out a cat might be fine for now but an upgraded upper I/C pipe will make a difference you can feel. I would grab at least 550cc injectors to run 18psi though.

Just take a 4G64 crank and use a 2.0L, that is if you love 10K redlines.

Looks like IC pipes for another application that needs a BOV flange to be welded on still.

For them to do the recall, all you need is your VIN# to be visible. They'll just type in your VIN and all the recalls that were ever done to it will pop up. Keep us informed.

Well, what I'm saying is that you can do it safely on 560ccs. If you can get 660cc for the same price than you might as well go for it. Most people will say 660cc will be the limit for the S-AFC but even 720cc is ok.

I don't know who you heard this from but I'm someone who likes to max out all my turbos before I upgrade. I did 30psi(goes down to 26 around 6700RPMs) and there wasn't a problem.

Is the exhaust really stinky? If you're runnin rich, your plugs would be black. Is there a difference between plugs? Mainly the one all the way right and all the way left. If the tip is white, I don't think I'd want to turn down fuel press.

Because 93 octane doesn't like anything pass 18psi much. Your extra cushion is a fuel pump and AFPR.

I assume you'll be runnin pump gas. See if you can grab a hold of EVO 8 injectors(560cc). If you're going to sell it, I suggest you should only run 18psi at the most. I also don't know how good your tuning skills are.

Well, does the diameter of the hole exceed 34mm?

Wheel bearings will whine when they're shot. I don't quite get what you mean about the play. Do you mean when you rock the wheel back and forth side to side? If that is what you mean than your tie rod ends are shot. Did you replace the inner tie rod, outer tie rod or both?

To run 20psi...you'll need a great tune. I've done it before. Other stuff that will help reduce knock will be a FMIC, NGK BPR7ES plugs, higher octane fuel/alky injection. Around 18psi is where pump gas starts to detonate.It's useless to run this boost level w/out a FMIC because the stocker...

At that boost level, you won't feel a difference w/ a FMIC. The only difference will be knock if anything at all. Cooler air = less knock. It's a good thing you have a 1G, otherwise it would hurt you to run a FMIC @16psi. 1Gs have better airflow through the front bumpers than 2Gs. Also, if...

Two samurai swords, 2 nunchakus, 1 bow staff, 6 shurikens, .45, 9mm. AK in the future?

SBR made a little over 400WHP. I'm sure a couple others.

When the oil cooler fails, oil will be milky/burnt.

That is why I went with the Green back then.

The only reason she hasn't is because she's still tryin to figure how to.

I'd love to see this.

Just head studs and head gasket. Around 23psi, generally.S-AFCs are pretty much useless for injectors above 720cc. Although that is overkill for 19psi. You could get away with EVO 8 injectors + AFPR at that boost level. Heck, you don't even need the studs or gasket. I doubt you'll be able to...

I think it was about 20-22 psi. Not all are consistent though.

If it was the HG, water would be in the oil....not the other way around.

Sounds like a busted input shaft, shift fork. I would also take "laserspeeddemon"'s advice also.Acting like it's in N but it's actually in gear = input shaft Not coming out of gear = fork most likely

My 1G BOV held 27lbs fine because it was crushed. That was when I was runnin a Green (50 trim). The IM is fine but if you must, at the most, go with a 1G. A bigger turbo will fully utilize an upgraded aftermarket IM. Just my personal first hand experience.

That's a phony show. What city did he claim to race in?

Head studs and a gasket = higher boost.

You say a 50 trim has too much lag and you're considering a 57? WTF 18lbs on a 57 trim is a waste of a turbo. Those turbos are meant to be run 27lbs or higher.

Vista is for people who like eye-candy. Way too new to even consider having at this point. I love my tweaked version of XP SP2 Corporate. I'm a seeder/leecher so I re-format everything every 2 months. It's the only way to keep things runnin fast and efficient.

I think that says 6-bolt in your mods, right? Sounds like a common random/multiple misfire. Common in 6-bolt to 2G swaps.

All you need is the L-pipe if you're on the stock IC.

Are you runnin an electronic boost controller?