Yeah this is a completely different problem. You might want to start a new thread for it even, so more people can help you out. Our problem here was that the white ignition wire on pin 1 wasn't carrying enough current and causing all sorts of weird intermittent problems with all devices that...
The autozone alternator test really only rules out catastrophic failure of the voltage regulator, and isn't a good indicator of a bad alternator. I'm thinking mine's probably toast, but it also tested fine when I took it out this summer when I moved it and the car wouldn't hold a charge. Ended...
Blaze, you're not alone. I pulled my DSM from storage. It's been sitting about a full year now, and I've only started it a few times to move it around. It's currently sitting in my garage and I found a buyer last night. Car fires up fine with a brand new battery and runs like a champ, but power...
I just fixed it, I think. Even though my coilpack tested perfectly, I replaced it anyway. Car runs like a dream now: no more twitchy tach, no more constant fuel cut above 2000 RPM, no more 18:1 on the logger after 10PSI.I can't believe it never threw a CEL amid all these problems.
Just grabbed a log of the bucking, keeping the throttle steady to cruise in 2nd gear. Spikes at 10,000 RPM while InjOn drops to 0ms. Is this how fuel cut looks on a log? It sure feels like it. It only does this for about 5 minutes of driving when the car is cold, then slowly subsides as the car...
Rather than post a new topic that fits under this thread I'll just put my problem here:For months, I've had a stutter that does not throw a CEL, and does not show knock. It used to only happen when I went over around 10PSI. Then it started happening out of boost, around 3500 - 4000 RPM. Not...
I'm not sure, but when I shut the car off after it was overheating, the fans were running at the time, so it works as normal.Anyway, I fixed the issue. I jumped the gun on the diagnosis of "radiator death" because I had one fail 3 weeks ago. All I saw was that vaporized coolant was...
Yes, the car's a daily driver. I stopped checking the fluid level after a few days of it not going anywhere. I figured I was safe. When I replaced the cap/thermostat, I burped the system the best I could with the car running. I capped it off when it was full and no more bubbles showed up.The...
Tonight the car overheated on the way home from work. I pull over and the reservoir is dry. A squeeze of the upper hose suggests that it's also bone dry. There is white residue all over the radiator.3 weeks ago the same thing happened: radiator puked coolant all over the engine bay. The...
Yeah I kinda ran out of daylight today and will be checking some more things out as the week progresses. I wanted to get some input on what I've inspected so far so I hopefully have some fresh ideas when I get back to work. The next course of action is going to be unbolting the crank angle...
Here's how it started:
Awhile back I posted a thread about my coil pack harness getting wound around my axle and getting yanked out. I repaired the harness and the car drove fine since then, except when I got over 10# of boost, the car would bog like crazy and I got no power. Didn't feel like...
A fellow DSMer suggested blacking out the top part of the taillights. I couldn't picture it so I threw up a (very quick) chop. No ragging on my skills here ;) . Just post your impressions. I already have the center section painted.
Ran down and took note of the wire colors...Top part of plug:
black/white
blue/red
blue/blackBottom part:
blue
red
blue/blackI just need to know what wires on top correspond to the ones on bottom as one side plugs into the other. Thanks.
I need the pinout for both sides of the coil pack harness plug as well as which connects to which. The wires on one side got yanked out of the plug (story below) and I need the pinout of both plugs to be able to match them up again. I'll likely have to buy an aftermarket 3-prong plug and redo...
My car used to hesitate when going from vac to boost, and if I put just enough input to stay between both on the gauge, it felt like I didn't have much power. In other words, the transition seemed a little laggy or underpowered. I found out that I was running pretty stinking lean in the 400Hz...
I also need longer exhaust manifold studs. What year/engine of Montero would the studs be made for? I'll be getting these from a dealer and these are the first 2 questions they ask.
Edit: I've decided to use the flange to the head as a spacer after an afternoon of hard work. Obviously this is going to require longer studs which I'm just going to have to find.
Yeah I've got the stinking 4 bolt housing and the clearance is REALLY tight. I hacked the 1/2" thick T3 flange off my old manifold to use as a spacer, and it's going to take another 1/8" or so to clear the block. Luckily I have a nice thick SS gasket that should allow me enough clearance. We'll see.
Do you happen to remember the thread pitch and diameter? I just found out that 3/8" coarse threads don't fit past the tapered part, and I don't have a bolt in my arsenal that will fit the hole at the moment.Edit: Never mind. Went to the hardware store and guessed correctly. It's an M10 bolt...
It doesn't look like you went with any kind of coating on your manifold. How did it hold up against rust? Turbonetics claims there's some sort of rust resistant coating on there and I've seen pictures of people's months-old manifolds and they still look great. I opted to not coat mine because I...
Thanks for the quick responses. I was hoping it'd only be a matter of rotating the compressor, but I'll definitely be looking into a spacer. Come to think of it, I can chop the old T3 flange off my trashed manifold. Hopefully that will provide enough clearance.
I got a Turbonetics cast T3/T4 manifold to replace my SFP that has welds so cracked you can see daylight through them. I got the manifold on, tried to bolt the turbo to it and discovered that the compressor housing is contacting the block with a good bit of room to go :mad:Now, since that...
No on both counts. The timing belt has been on there awhile and it still in great condition. I did the rear diff fluid 2 summers ago and recently changed the transfer case fluid this past May when I did my steering rack replacement. I understand why wearing diff parts would cause vibration but...
I've done various searches and the only result that described my problem didn't have much of an answer.The car vibrates when the speed is above 45MPH, and I start getting on the throttle to accelerate. The problem isn't present when giving just enough throttle to maintain speed. The...
Same thing happened to me this morning. This thread really narrowed down the diagnosis, the translator got a little water in it. Silicone that sucker up!
When I took off the transfer case to swap my power steering rack, I may have discovered the source of the tranny leak I've had for months. Every time I wipe it off, a little bead comes back down. It's a VERY slow leak. Is this enough to diagnose it and if so, where's it coming from?
I just got a "used" rack from Gary for $85 shipped. Boots are dry and it looks great, he included the inner and outer tie rods from the car it was on. I'm dreading the labor involved, but it'll be a fun learning experience. Honestly that one picture tells all there is to the tale. The boot on...
Got a nice cool day to open things up and check them out. My P/S rack system is definately leaking from somewhere in between the driver's side rack and rack housing, and I assume there's a seal between these two that is shot and causing the leaking. This means that I am in for a new rack...
That's a lot of good info, thanks. I was planning on getting new tie-rods and a 4-wheel alignment. I want to have to never touch this again, and from the sounds of the labor involved in the replacement, that's pretty much the right attitude.
As the title suggests, my P/S rack is leaking as confirmed by a mechanic. I have yet to crawl underneath since it got back, as some guys installing windows in the house have had their big ass van in the driveway and set up shop right there.
Apparently, a rebuild kit costs about $120, which puts...
Ah HAH! I didn't even think about this bypass plug. I actually found it with the car, not knowing what it was, so I'll have to dig this up and get the thing running. Thanks a bunch for the responses.
Just like the title says , went to start my car and lately it's been taking longer and longer to start. Fired right up today and died just as fast. Fired it up again, died within a couple seconds. Then smoke come out from under the hood. I open the hood and the DIS-II is smoking like it's going...
I've always had a TINY leak in one of the seals in my transmission. As in so small that I'd only have to fill it once a year. Recently it's been accelerating, so it's time I tore into it. Logic dictates that the engine is to be dropped in order to properly inspect the transmission. I had a shop...
The battery's in the back in a sealed box, bolted down tight. A visual inspection says that nothing's shorting against anything else and all the connections are rock solid. I could check continuity to chassis ground, but I would imagine it'd blow a fuse.
Dave Mertz on the DSMLink boards said...
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll check this when I get home. I JUST put new terminals on a couple months ago, but anything's possible. I'll post the results here.
Edit: Ugh. Obviously I can't take the terminals off or I lose DSMLink's config. I can't conenct with any device to DSMLink, therefore...
As the thread title suggests, I have a multitude of problems. Since this morning I haven't driven the car since coming home from work on Friday.
When I started the car up, it idled at the usual 1500 until it got warmed up and slowly dropped. This time it dropped to around 500 and stayed there...
I would only use the translator to convert the MAF's airflow signals into Karman. Set the translator for stock injector size. Why? Basically because you can set things such as deadtime and injector size easy enough in the software, making it more concise. Also, the guys at ECMTuning already set...
Just have a looksie through the list of companies supported by their sponsorship. Most of it is just garbage. You're not going to get anything from Apex-I, Fidanza, HKS, Tein, etc. etc.
Uhhh, right.
Anything you have against imageshack.us as a host? They host pictures as large as you want as long as they're under 1024K.
The pictures look great though, shutter speed is where it's at for the night shots :thumb:
Practically no one. Besides, I was searching the thread for 'rendezvous'.
Also, Death Race 2000, although only good for a laugh, or if you like Carradine.
As you can tell I'm not a fan of the "new" car movies.
I wonder if it's possible for those with modifed XBOXen to extract the mesh from Forza's libraries. It's one of the best meshes I've seen in a racing game, plus it has the Eclipse AND Talon.
...so why'd you have to ask us the proper way to tell your friend that he's completely retarded?
Write this down on a piece of paper to give to your friend that contains ALL of the necessary steps to bunk his claim:
Step 1: Upgrade your IQ before speaking.
Step 2: Speak.Don't do extra...
NOOOOOOO, you need an MAF blow-through setup (search for info).
This has been discussed many many many times before. Is the price of a new bov worth it to replace something that already performs perfectly, just for it to make a new sound and "look good"? :rolleyes: