Car doesn't pull at all under hard braking. Pads have tons of meat left rotors might have a few thousand miles on them if that but the car does sit for long periods of time and they rust over. They clean right up after driving a few miles. Last brake job I did was new pads and rotors and they...
I did bench bleed the new master. I've checked the booster line check valve in the past but I'll check it out again. I've bleed the entire system at least half a dozen times. They do push a lot of fluid. I don't loose any brake fluid over time either. I did notice yesterday that I've got old...
Thanks for your reply Mech. I've tried a bunch of different pads over the years and nothing really had that nice grabby bite I get in my newer vehicles. Maybe I'm just expecting a little too much out of them. I just put it back on the road so the more I drive it the more I'll dig into the brakes...
Pedal feels good. It's not hard. The pedal gets real firm when I pump it with the car off then sucks back down after I start it. Not sure of any other ways to test the booster.Yes a new OEM master.So just to confirm the JNZ pic is wrong? My top ports (inline with the bolt hole) are running...
They just don't ever feel like they have a lot of bite. I need to push the pedal down quite far too stop quickly. Hell I don't even think they would lock up the front tires if I stood on them. It's been like that since I got it. I've replaced just about everything brake related over the years...
Long story short my brakes have never been amazing no matter what I've tried or replaced. I happened to come across a pic on the JNZ website that lists what ports are for what lines and it would appear mine is upside down according to that pic...
I had a similar problem with one of my old Walbro pumps. Car would run great for a few pulls then all of a sudden go lean up top and knock. I would let the car sit over night and it would be fine again for a couple pulls. Every once in a while the pump would let out a weird squeal so I knew it...
This is true but I've read that if the meth is hitting the iat sensor wet before it vaporizes then it's not going to give accurate intake air temps. Both make sense I guess but I've heard from guys who run it both ways and they all say that their afr's stay pretty consistent. I was just kinda of...
I've decided to mount it before the meth nozzle based on some info posted on the ecmlink forum. I believe it's going to give me the most accurate and consistent afr's based on weather changes.
I've been doing a lot of reading about where to mount my iat sensor when running meth injection and was curious where the ecmlinker's stand on this?From my research people on other platforms like to run the iat sensor after the meth nozzle so if the meth ever stops spraying they can pull a...
Did you ever end up injecting pre turbo on the Evo3 16g? I'm throwing around the idea myself and can't seem to find anyone that has any sort of solid results on a small turbo.
Anything new with the tuning/spool? I will agree with everyone 110% that getting your mafcomp lined up will make tuning so much easier. Once that is dialed in you can just plug in what ever afr's you want in your fuel map and know your going to be very close.I'm not familiar with the TD06SL2...
Well I threw in a new master cylinder yesterday and replaced a rear brake line that bolts to the caliper that had a tiny hole in it and still have the same issue. I bench bled the hell out of the new master then bled it at the lines that connect to it. I couldn't break the bleeder valve loose on...
Yeah I know what your talking about with that nut! I pulled the master cylinder out of the brake booster to check it for leaks earlier this morning when it was 8°F outside. It wasn't fun at all LOL
I'm having an issue with my brakes after the car sat in out in the freezing cold for a week. I went to move it the other day and the pedal went straight to the floor and barely stopped by the end of the driveway. I pumped it a few times and it felt normal again but if I let it sit for a minute...
Does it matter that the box is checked next to the "Disable MAF compensation w/SD operation?" Could that be the reason why none of his mafcomp adjustments didn't seem to do anything?
First off are you 100% sure your AEM wideband is logging accurately? They are notorious for logging inaccurately in link unless you set them up as a liner gauge which according to your log you don't. I had all kinds of knock issues myself until I got my wbfactor inline using the maf comp...
I've had a few different problems that cause this same issue in the past. First problem I encountered that caused this problem was a torn diaphragm in my Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator. I wouldn't allow the regulator to raise fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio with boost. I've also had the bolts...
Are you really running 30psi as that log suggests? Are you running speed density? You have the box checked to disable MAF comp if your running speed density. Your airflow (maf comp) is way off if your AEM wideband is logging accurately and your not running speed density. I'd lower the boost then...
What drives me nuts about this thread is the OP has an answer to everything anyone suggests. If he knows everything and already has his mind made up then why bother starting a thread in the first place?
Am I missing something here? What exactly is so amazing about this ECU that is setup for your "mostly stock car"?? Between that and the Evo maf your looking at over $400. That seems like a huge waste of money to me. A fmic, a datalogger of some sort and maybe even a boost controller would make a...
Ok so I wired my wideband to the front o2 pin 4 on the ecu and assigned the pin in ecmlink and then added it to the capture/displayed values and it only reads full rich and does not move at all. The raw front o2 volts are also locked at .04 volts even though I tested 2.35v with a multimeter...
Ah thats clever. I've seen those heatshields before. Last question when you simulate the narrowband using link and the front o2 sensor input do I still wire the 5v output of the wideband controller to that input or do I need to wire in the narrowband 0-1v output from the wideband?
That is most likely my next step. How is your narrowband simulation? The only reason I haven't tried this yet is I've read that the PLX narrowband simulation is really slow and can cause closed loop drive ability issues.
Long story short I can't get my PLX M300 to datalog accurately with ECMLink V3. I tried setting it up as default PLX in the link drop down box and also tried to calibrate it as a linear output and neither will log accurately. The one constant problem I've noticed is the output volts when...
I'm using the test button on the controller to activate the pump. It's supposed to start at the pump and gradually ramp it up to max flow and hold it there for 3 seconds. Out of the 15-20 times I tested it there was only once where the pump acted normal. I double checked all wiring and...
I get that but what I'm seeing on the multimeter is the voltage drop and I can physical hear and feel the pump nearly stop. It will gradually build to say 6 volts then for a split second drop to 2 volts then pick back up and start raising again from 6. Sometimes the volts will drop more than...
I just recently started to have issues with my AEM meth injection kit. I noticed I was getting some lean spikes in my datalogs so first thing I checked was the meth system. Upon running it with the test button on the controller (without the nozzle attached) I noticed that the pump nearly stops a...
I've seen other 1g datalogs where all these parameters increase very smooth and linear through out a pull so I'm not sure its a 1g thing. On that note I was wondering if there might be a way to increase the sample rate of the datalogs?I've video recorded my boost gauge and tach to try and...
I have plenty of fuel. Afr's on the wideband gauge are in mid to upper 10's. Those don't match the PLX in the datalog either but we'll leave that for another day lol. I actually had to lean out the mixture in order to get rid of knock from the previous pull.
Real simple question here. I've noticed that in most of my logs my rpm and speed are not smooth at all and bounce up and down on a wot pull. I know this is not normal as I've been looking at other peoples logs for a long time trying to educate myself before actually getting link. Is this a...
I just got out and made my first 3rd and partial 4th gear wot pulls today and have a few concerns. My first concern is that I'm running roughly 1-1.3 points leaner on my wideband than what my DA fuel table target is. I am spraying a 50/50 meth/water mix so this has got me really confused...
Just to clarify I fixed this problem. I had the tcase recall done at my local Chrysler dealership and they had to replace my driveshaft as well. Upon putting everything back together they accidentally pinched my ebrake cable between the floor of the car and the lobro joint of the driveshaft so...
Possibly but even still I don't think my timing is that aggressive considering I'm running meth injection. The fact that one day the car pulls like mad and the next day it's just kinda blah leads me to believe something else is wrong.
Another tid bit of info I've noticed is that some days it pulls so hard it feels like the front tires are gonna come off the ground and other days its just kinda blah. I constantly datalog the car and nothing looks out of the ordinary except for this knock problem.
I've got a little more info. I can seem to make a few clean pulls with little to no knock when I first start the tuning pulls then after that the knock seems to start. It's not heatsoak because I've pulled over a few times and the cold side of the fmic is still cool the touch. I'm at a loss here...
No it only knocks at full throttle right after I hit full boost and the car really starts pulling. Everything's calm and quit at part throttle. latest boost leak test only showed very minor leaks the tb shaft seals. I do have a set of bpr8's I can try.
I've been battling knock issue's at 4k and 4.5k rpm's for a long time. It doesn't seem to matter what I run my afr's at it will almost always knock at those rpm's lately. I don't know for sure if its phantom knock or real knock. If you look at my data log graphs from today the knock lines are...
I had the same issue in my old car. After changing and checking this that and everything else it turned out that my year old (5k miles) Walbro 255 was dying. It was the last thing I checked cause it wasn't that old. Do you notice if your pump makes any odd noises sometimes? Can you hear it whine...
I did follow the Team RIP instructions on how to properly bleed the dsm clutch but I have also read a lot of threads saying how much of a pain it is to get all the air out of the system. Its easy enough to do so I'll give it another try. I guess air in the system could explain why once in a...
Long story short my main question is what would cause the master cylinder to not be able to be adjusted far enough out to lock the valve causing the slave cylinder to lock up and not be able to push it back in by hand?Long story:I just recently put in an ACT2600 with a SB Kevlar disc and my...
My turbo oil return line was also leaking. Here's how I fixed it. Buy yourself 2 new gaskets and order the correct (6mm I think) crush washers for all 4 bolts. Those crush washers alone usually fix 90% of those leaks in my experience. I might have gotten a little carried away but I used a thin...
This might be a stupid question but are both rear axles the same on a 1g 4 bolt? I notice the parts store list a right and a left side so I'm not sure. I'm having an issue with my rear passenger side wheel clicking and sometimes vibrating when the car squats under hard acceleration and had the...