Day 2/3Took the surge tank, intake manifold and started on the driver side axle. The way everything is set up it made everything come out really easily which is nice, since serviceability was something I wanted to focus on when I was adding parts to the car. I don't think I ever realized...

HTP in Arnold makes great parts, but it can be a bit difficult to get a hold of him. Chances are also better he'll work for you if you can put a deposit down on at least part of the work--I know he's particular about who/what he works on these days.

I saw an increase of 15 degrees above ambient after a 0-130 mph run at 35 psi on a 63mm BorgWarner. I'm using a 5" Garrett core. For single gear pulls IATs do not move after 2nd gear pulls, and they go up about 5-7 degrees on a 3rd gear pull.

Day 1Only got like 2-3 hours of work in since I had to fix my dad's car too. Got the radiator, downpipe, and turbo setup off so far. Glancing at the valves it looks like cylinder 4 has some beat up valves, which is no surprise since there's a giant hole in front of where the 4th rod would...

PI 9.5 billet with some ridiculous stall. If I remember right it's stalled the same as Kiggly's was at one point--meaning it's designed for around 9000 rpm.If I get that long rod 2.4 I'll be sending the converter off to get it tightened up up top. Like I said earlier this converter would...

Rod failure. Looking at some built motors on various classifieds right now. G4CS long rod 2.4L is in the lead right now.

Season over! 3+ years of 500-700 whp and next to no maintenance did her in. We sure had a good run, but it's on to the next motor!For the record, I was ahead :p

That trap is higher than what 99% of people do in the quarter.

ET Tuning in Union, MO

I'm in the same boat with a 2.3L and a decent sized turbo--I'm not even considering the BC280s not because they're "BC junk", but because they don't have the same duration/lift as Kelford/GSC cams.Their new BC284/280 looks much more interesting though. 230/226*, 11.4/10.9mm lift. Similar to...

It's roughly 50/50; my converter had Redline type F in it, and I filled the rest of the case up with the Hygard.Car is not a daily driver; it has ~1100 miles on this combination right now with a lot of tuning/racing.I can't tell you how much it actually changes your stall if you decide...

Smaller converter

I have an extremely loose stall, so I wanted it to tighten my trans up. The coldest it has been since the car became an auto is around 40-50 degrees, and the car drove fine.

I run a mix of regular John Deere Hygard and Redline type F

There are some events going on this weekend in KC.. 1/4 on Friday with some F-body meeting and a dyno day on Saturday with a regional Evo board. If I can find someone to help trailer my car down I'm considering making the trip. The car will absolutely make the trip by itself, even with my...

I was running a 255 in tank to an 044 inline before. Part of the problem was cavitating the in tank pump. It still supported a lot of power, but it was far from ideal for me.I got my transmission cooler ducted, and some ducting between my radiator and FMIC. The FMIC itself leaves nearly...

Pretty much the same plans as before--JMF Drag installed, the biggest off the shelf core Garrett sells, some ducting, and a surge tank with two Walbro 255 (GSL392's). All my old fueling issues are fixed, which actually fixed some of my old tuning issues. Bought one of the DSMLink BCS and it's...

I love the car now--it runs safer and faster than ever now. I was trying to go to the 1/8th mile track yesterday but it got rained out. Next free weekend will be sometime in September.

I swapped my car to an auto this last winter with a lot of help. After driving it for a while, the best part is having confidence in the driveline to stay together at WOT.

It will not fitVirtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - 2G Visual IndexVirtual Tour of the DSM Engine Bay - 1G Visual Index

Yeah, it has a 3.5mm jack so you can wire it in yourself (two channels and a ground) to whatever setup you can come up with. Some people have spliced it into their left and right horn buttons last I heard.

Yes.

Tim, I thought you were running a standard S400SX turbo--is this a straight BW unit or were the internals modified by BEP?

Slightly off topic, but do you have a link to that thread?

Depends on the car, but generally I think people go overkill with timing on E85. The MBT window seems to be a lot "wider" than it is on gas.

I managed to lose something like 19.5% through the dyno, although it isn't quite that bad. There was a 60* jump in IATs on the dyno because one of my friends who helped put the car back together managed to not tighten down two intercooler hose clamps. Kind of a novice mistake not boost leak...

For the VAST majority of people overheating, I firmly believe it is not because of a FMIC. Many people run giant FMICs without any problems--hell I have a 4" core on top of an exposed, uncoated tubular hot side setup and a SINGLE fan and I'm not overheating in 90*+ weather.To go to the extent...

I did exactly what you're trying to do. You basically locate the two plug harnesses--the big connector comes off the shift selector "nodule", and the smaller connector is more generic looking so I recommend matching the wire colors to find it.Personally I did not cut off the larger...

Do you have any specific questions? The wiring is very straightforward if you follow Kiggly's picture.

Good luck with the transmission! This thing's a killer

This is the single best thread I've read on here in 8+ years--thanks to everyone for the great stories!

-6 should be more than adequate

The pump will not be enough to max out the injectors (flow chart), but it will still be enough for 400-450 whp easily.As far as getting as much flow as the smallest pump will do, that is the exact opposite of how a surge tank works. The 044 is essentially gravity fed from the surge tank, so...

With a completely stock converter you aren't going to stall it, at all. I'd consider looking around locally or getting one from IPT.

It might hurt stall, but it's going to help top end. I'll be adding a JMF Drag to my car in a couple weeks, so I'll let you know how much different it is.What converter are you planning on running?

The swap isn't very fun, to be honest. They are better in my opinion for a serious street/strip or drag car.You can manually shift your auto via the Kiggly mod: Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.comI'm using this in conjunction with a ratchet shifter and it works very well.

Spent a long time swapping to an auto but haven't changed anything else up. I'm going to dyno it again next weekend to see how much power I "lose". I'll probably put in the dual pump hanger and the intake manifold after that.The local track closed, but there's word of it reopening during the...

You can do 500 whp safely with a Walbro 255, but I would recommend doing the rewire as it's a good idea regardless of what pump setup you run.You shouldn't have to adjust the tune for a fuel pump, UNLESS you were originally out of fuel pump already. That will show up as you having to add tons...

The problem with this becomes additive losses from compounding cooling systems (yo dawg I heard you like losing efficiency so I put a cooling system in your cooling system so you can lose efficiency while you lose efficiency). The main benefit from A/W cooling has been and always will be the...

Sure there is; you heat soak your heat sink (the water)

I ran a big SMIC with a Garrett core before my FMIC and had a lot of problems with heat soak. Even running E85 it would still get a fair bit of knock up top, and I definitely couldn't make a full pass. This was on a S256 at ~24 psi.

The Tsunami pump actually flows less than the 044 which most people use after the in tank 255 pump, so you should be fine. http://aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/product_images/11103_11106-chart.jpgFor the wiring I used a separate relay fed from the battery and triggered by the...

This certainly looks familiar.. :DIt's a great setup and I'm sure you'll like it a lot

I would go with SD. 1600's will be fine if you have enough fuel pump to back them up.

Your problem sounds like what I was going through last summer. I had just switched setups and needed a slimfan fast, so I grabbed one from Autozone. It was fine while moving, but as soon as I stopped temps just shot up. I bought a SPAL from E-Bay and it solved my problems.

The same thing is happening to me after a wiring harness swap, and I'm also looking at doing an ignition switch because I can't figure it out!Does your car have an anti-theft system? That's the last thing I haven't looked at in detail yet.

This is the best answer. I know Maurice knows the math and is too lazy to explain, so here goes:Engine volume flow (CFM) = (CIDxRPM)/(2*1728)Going from 122 to 140 cubic inches is indeed a 15% increase. The equation for mass airflow is[P(psia)*V(cfm)*29]/[10.73*T(R)] * VEWhile...

It decreases volumetric efficiency in the upper RPM range from making it more difficult for the engine to breathe, which causes the lower airflow. With that said you can run it and make more power, but you'll have to settle for your powerband dropping very quickly.I made my power on a stock...

Run full line pressure during shifts and it'll handle that fine assuming it has been maintained and is in working order.

1g Forrester RacingRunner volume: ~316 cc/runner measured (1264 cc total calculated) Plenum volume: ~2814 cc Total volume: ~4078 ccRealistically, probably close to ~4200 cc2g JMF DragRunner volume: ~733 cc total measured (~183.25 cc/runner calculated) Plenum volume: ~4507 cc Total...