I use to like the snow when I was a child, now I would rather be in the heat of the summer at the beach than a winter full of cold and snow. With that said Jax, FL is pretty nice right now:thumb:

Yeah, the shim method was pretty tedious, however you can get them very close, just remember you don't have to use washers, anything non-compressible to compensate for clearance will work. I would never run a solid adjuster in my 4g63 so i really couldn't justify spending that much for 2...

You can disassemble a stock lifter and use shims to set for 0 lash.

Pretty much stock, cat back and intake, with low compression, oil leaks, and half blown turbo.

LOL wow. Nice car though.

Make sure you use the clutch when changing gears, other than that everything is ok.

Money slut

Sounds like an input shaft bearing man.

Sell it and buy a turbo car, lol. Just kidding agreed, maintenance.

Save your money, on your turbo its not worth the trouble to fab a shitty FMIC. You would be better off getting a 14b and sticking with your side mount. If you want a front mount buy one off ebay as they seem to be fairly popular, and would require much less fabbing on a 2g than mounting a shitty...

Not too hard. One small mistake and you can ruin your engine. Your call.If you do really want to attempt doing it yourself read the vfaq.http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

I rev these springs and retainers on bc280's up to 9200. Make sure your installed height is correct and you shouldn't have any issues.

You NEED to rewire that pump. The pump cannot keep up at that pressure with only 10-11 volts. Depending were your battery is (trunk or engine) you should be running a 10awg power and ground. The pumps will support much more power than what you are making, the rewire WILL fix your problem.

Ryan Krebs Just moved off of Southside Blvd from Fort Wayne, IN. 1990 Mitsubishi GSX Looking for a local club, the car is still in Fort Wayne, going to get it here in the next few months.Car runs high 10's@130+mph

Your not going to hear bearings over anything that could power the transmission out of vehicle. Is it a manual or automatic?

If your buying a transmission out of a yard, your already taking a risk for a cheap short cut, why the hell would you want to test it?

Sounds like you keep replacing the bad alternator with the same type. All company's that re-manufacture alternators and such take short cuts.However when an engine is removed from a vehicle the posiblity of wire getting damaged is greatly increased. Especially when componets are re-located...

That defiantly sucks man. I rev my BC 280's and springs to 9200, no issues. 15 passes at the track and 4 months of pretty solid driving.

Agreed the Synapse gates are not well constructed. BTW that turbo is off the chain like hot sauce. Defiantly a 7 sec turbo. They support like 60psi and have 1000% efficiency. I would probably sell it or throw it away before you kill yourself with the power and longevity it will sustain.

The biggest reason for a water or methanol/alcohol injection is for knock suppressant. Pre-ignition detonation WILL destroy your engine. You will gain very little in spraying a water mixture in your engine. With this set up you would be able you run a higher boost level thus producing more...

Smoke some PCP, you'll figure it out.

Rated 9. I drive my FWD everyday. Go out in the morning and it starts, drives decent, and gets really good fuel millage. 25 city 32 highway.You have to be willing to keep up on repairs if you want any car to stay reliable. So don't bi*** about a vehicles reliability when the car has been...

Sounds like your throttle cable is not adjusted right.

Just use oil, that's the best kind of oil for your engine. You are not going to gain or loose anything from oil, just change it. 5*F of temperature will make a larger power difference. I use standard oil in my 10 second car, you? The only thing that matters is the warm weight I.E. W20 W30 W40...

If you are at all familiar with any type of nitrous set up, there are countless switches and window points for shut off an activation. RPMs, boost pressure, MPH, gear. Whenever you want pretty much, or if you just want to run a button that works too.The switch you are thinking about would...

I really don't think it would have fallen into the engine. Usually they stick in either the caps or head unless they are physically removed.

Did you check the cap for the pin?:hmm: Baby steps, check the easiest place first. I've had lot of them stick in the caps.

A normal 50/50 mix of coolant and water is good for -35 below.

Agreed on using the hand brake. Also works good for pre-loading the drivetrain at the strip.

You need a device to tune with, whether it be an SAFC, DSMLink or even just a EPROM ecu to have custom chips burned. Please search and read information regarding tuning devices.

Leave that nasty blanket off man! Looks good.

I would just eliminate the PCV valve all together. It will help keep your crank case breathing under boost. Good idea though.

With a ball bearing turbo, you might want to run your feed feed line off the cylinder head. There may be too much pressure for the oil seals to hold. Looks good though:thumb:

Looks good man. I would HIGHLY suggest you degree those BC cams. Mine were WAY off as have been many others. Everything is super clean though, looks real nice.:hellyeah:

Same as stock.

Rep the Fort. Maybe we get some newbies!

They are quite stiff. You can order them with custom springs though which would help a lot.

Just grab the intermediate shaft and give it a good push into the transmission. You should defiantly look into replacing that axle.

Agreed with everyone else, try them both. Make sure you get the cyclone manifold function 100% before you really decided. I think you will like the top end power a short runner sheet metal intake makes though.

The k-sports come with front camber plates. You can still adjust the factory rear camber, but only to an extent. Search for 1g rear camber and you'll find out what happens if you want to "slam" the 1g's.I have the K-sports, but not for ride height. The really nice part about the k-sports are...

Hell yeah. Awesome clean build man, can't wait to see some numbers.:thumb:

No one has sponsored the DSE class? Damn. There's got to be a vendor that wants to sponsor :D.

The car went [email protected] on the Mitsubishi housing last night. First time I ran it at the track all year. The car defiantly has more in it. That was with Sunoco 110. With some higher octane gas like pure C16 or 118 and some more boost and seat time I think it has a 10.40 in it.

You can use the 044 with the stock intake, no problems there. If you want to keep the 044 external without an intake pump you would need to "sump" the factory tank. You should have plenty of fuel for your setup with the 044 feed by a stock intank.

As long as you don't beat the shit out of them, these cars are pretty reliable. The one thing you don't know is the history on the car. It probably has been through hell. Expect to pay some decent money to get the car running right and catching up on long lost maintenance. Don't by the car, and...

Not going to lie, that is really bad ass! Looks really nice, good job man.

The screen is there to straighten airflow across the wires. Removing it will give you even more strange airflow readings and will probably cause the car to drive strange.

Yeah, defiantly get some NGK BPR7ES spark plugs in there with NGK wires.

Finally had my car dyno tuned at Pure Tuning. Made 443WHP @ 28-29 PSI. This was on a 50/50 mix of 118 and 93. Still on the bolt on .63 exhaust housing. The car runs great and never stops making horsepower.:D Full boost comes in around 5500RPMS. Waiting on the drive shaft shop to get my 3.5"...

At least keep the side skirts.