Well I pretty much have it all buttoned back up after a clutch kit and oil pan re-seal. Whoever did the last clutch of course did a crap job, bolts were missing and the tranny was slightly separated from the block on the bottom. I'm sure that helped the clutch engagement that was basically at...

Well I suppose I'm dipping my toes back into the dark and oily DSM pool. I noticed on my profile I joined here over 10 years ago and that made me feel pretty damn old. I was into DSMs as a single guy in my early 20s and had several AWD 1Gs. Never had anything outrageous but after getting...

One of my good friends just bought a '90 Talon Tsi FWD. The car is in excellent condition for a 13 year old car, with 95k on it. We've changed the turbo (to a small 16G) and injectors (510cc yellow tops), but the problem has no changed with these mods. The exhaust housing of the turbo still...

Err, you might not ever get it. Todd Day fell off the face of the Earth, I don't remember the last time he filled an order.

Back when my car ran 8.4s in the 1/8th and trapped about 81mph, I raced one of my old Honda buddies. He had a hybrid LS/VTEC, Type R cams, B16 pistons, few other minor things. From a highway pull starting at 60, I maybe pulled a car on him up to 120. That's not at all bad considering up until...

I just ordered the same kit. What was the lead time in recieving it from them? I'm not in a big rush, but I'm hoping for better time than the 9week Indy RC or the 6week RnR. Also did the kit come with a 14B/16G outlet elbow?

If you're not flowing the exhaust gases to support it, adding a 3in will do about nothing. Anything under 300hp and I couldn't imagine your hp increase with a half inch bigger exhaust to be anything over 1-5%, if that. But on the other hand, locally we have 2 cars making well over 500hp on 3in...

They are PTE Turbos. The next 'big thing'. A Garrett copy of the Mitsu exhuast housing so they bolt directly to our manifolds. But unless you have the supporting mods to handle a 400hp turbo, I suggest you rethink buying it.

Excuse me? All 16G look the same because they are the same. What makes the big different is the 7cm exhaust housing instead of the stock DSM 6cm.

What are the chances you (RnR I mean) could modify the UPIC pipe to support the 3" MAFT blow-thru? I really like the RnR street and race cores, but that's my only problem since I'm running that step currently.

Yea, I grew half a clue and realized how bad trying to get out cheap has hurt me before. I'll just drop the money needed to get a real core. It's not THAT much more.

I'm picking up a 50trim PTE. I want to run a FMIC but not spend a lot of cash. Dejon sells their street FMIC that's 16x7x3 for a good price. It's 2 2G SMICs welded together with endtanks pretty much. What are the chances that would even remotely be enough for a 50trim? Or do I just need to...

I would call the 3SGTE anything but a "more quality" motor than the 4G63. It can't handle what the 4G can. But the AllTrac is a nice car. It's a pig though.. heavy bastard. To find out more about them, check out www.alltrac.net

You definately need help on that 60ft. My stock clutch withholds 1.7s. Get over the 60ft mark with anything under a 1.9 and you'll be in the 8s. My 14B took me to 8.7s and a 14.0 in the 1/4 with almost nothing done.

Yep, that's about right. Both Brian Wilson of FP and the car Violater are talking about made well over 500. Brian made 520 on a 2.3L stroker at I believe 22psi. The customer car is a built 7-bolt that made 549@26psi.

One of my friends has a duct rigged up. It runs from his front left bumper inlet right next to the intercooler to his K&N. Probably 3 or so inches wide all the way up. He relocated his coolant bottle for it. Does it make a difference? Yes :thumb: The K&N is open and screwed into the MAS...

If it's your valve stem seals it's a little better. Not amazingly hard. If you plan on leaving the head on the motor it'll be more difficult than with it off. I'd suggest pulling it.

:laugh: Obivously you've never hear Buschur's way of breaking in a car. Drive it off the lot or out of the shop and put your foot to the floor. He dynoed all his aftermarket parts for the EVO on a brand new car with less than 1000 miles.

6 bolt rods are easy to come by on the trader. Usually around 100 bucks or so.

Hooked on fonics werked for me. Oh yea, so did a hammer and chizel. Just keep one working at it until you break it loose. :thumb:

Lets not even get started on how much horsepower you'd probably lose due to an aftermarket header. Losing back-pressure to that beast would cause its world to fall apart. You have to realize this car makes 66hp to the wheels. 66... my lawn mower can almost do 66. My one cylinder motocross...

Ha.. you guys are lucky. My girlfriend tried to sell my car for $150. She actually had some guy call me about it.

It's a Sleeper 16G fellas, not a Sleeper 20G.. and it's a lot more than "just" a 20G wheel in a 16G housing. There is an A$$LOAD of machine work and a custom compressor wheel that goes into those things. And they don't flow like a 20G, they outflow a 20G. Victor with the GVR4 will tell you...

Are you serious? I've never heard of anything like this before.

I have to agree. I waited 3 months for my datalogger from Todd. He just doesn't care about the community anymore, and why should he? He's been in it for way longer than the majority of us.But honestly, how can you say the TMO chip is really pirated? Todd took Mitsu's code and modified...

The 2 wires you swap are in the VFAQ. It's pretty straight forward. But it does do some weird stuff. The filtering for the tach is different in the cluster, so you'll need something else to tell your RPM at WOT. I put the AFC in my line of sight for right now.The only advantage to an...

*bump* Anyone?

You can make a 91-94 work on a 90. I did it. Swap 2 wires. Your tach gets a little goofy though..

I'm going to replace the seals in my head, and maybe the valve guides. I've been told that if I change the guides I'll have to get the valve seats recut. If that's true then I'll just replace the seals, because this head is only temporary until July. If not, I'll cough up the money to buy new...

I think we should stick to real 60ft times that a FWD is capable of when talking about this. Slicks are a totally different variable. Your normal FWD is going to put down a 2.2-2.4 60ft. You're really much better off than you think you are. If you think that's bad, one of my good friends...

The block shares the head from a 1G. Not the same block though. As a matter of fact they share the same valve cover. One of my friends had a valve cover with Hundayi written across the top of it where 16 Valve usually is. Nice conversation piece.. but that's about it.

Unfortunately Tokico doesn't make struts for the 1Gs. You're pretty much limited to KYBs. Either GR-2s (which are a factory replacement, only slightly stiffer than stock) or AGXs (adjustable gas shocks). I'd personally go with the AGXs for adjustability. If you plan on lowering your car...

Hmm.. still, with your mods you should be a little faster. I guess it was because of that launch.. I don't have the timeslip sitting infront of me, but my Talon ran an 8.40@81mph w/ a 1.78 60'. You get that 60ft down into the 1.7s and you'll probably run 8.3s. Maybe your car needs to lose...

I would do that if it wasn't so bright it lit up the entire engine bay. I've owned 3 seperate 1Gs and worked on probably a dozen others, and NONE of them glowed like this thing does. You can't tell me that is just "normal".

One of my good friends just bought a '90 Talon Tsi FWD. The car is in excellent condition for a 13 year old car, with 95k on it. We've changed the turbo (to a small 16G) and injectors (510cc yellow tops), but the problem has no changed with these mods. The exhaust housing of the turbo still...

I've heard from somewhere you can use 3G valves in our heads, but even that is unconfirmed.

There's a place locally I can get a 2G-type MAS very cheaply. The problem is it's out of a Diamante. I've heard conflicting reports about the other MASs Mitsu made. That they are calibrated differently and have odd effects. Can anyone confirm this or know that these other MASs are safe?

Best place to find out is times.dsm.org and the 1/4 Times registery here. I'm sure someone there will have a similar setup with the same turbo.

If you're refering to www.dsm.org, then you can't. That member sign-up page has been down for updates for about a damn year now. :thumb: It's best just to look for your local chapter of Club DSM. They can usually offer more direct assistance than anything.

:rolleyes: Has anyone stopped to think that maybe he doesn't smoke? He might be using the lighter to light fuses for blackcats or something. Or maybe his heater doesn't work. :D

I've got a '90 Talon and I just swapped in a '91 JDM EPROM ECU. I did the re-wire and outwardly it appears to run perfectly. Is there anything I should look out for or possibly going to screw up by continuing to run this thing?Also when I go to WOT my tach falls to 0. Anywhere below like...

The guy from IRC made one. If you got to indyracecores.com and go to his 1G Race Core install pictures, you'll see the filter sticking out where the sidemount use to be. It's a good idea, but I wonder how much the MAS would be affected.. You're moving it from less than a foot away from the...

Unforgiven just answered this with his post above actually. Let me put it to you this way. Stock sized turbos with stock internal wastegates hate massive 3in exhausts. You either need to upgrade your exhaust housing along with the dp, or you need to upgrade the turbos wastegate (ie external).

For anyone who cars it turned out to be the turbo seal. The turbo had been badly abused and I think the seal hardened. It's kind of a relief.. but now the process of burning off all the oil in the exhuast is kinda annoying.

Okay, here's one. We've got a LOT of white smoke pouring out of my friend's car. But he's not losing coolant or oil (defiantely not coolant, if it's losing oil it's doing it slowly), and the car still has full power. So I semi ruled out head gasket. What is worth mentioning is this started...

That emblem in the center of your rear tail lights that's visable is it. I'd like to take that bad boy off if it's just stuck on with glue. Surely someone has been brave enough to remove it??

www.vfaq.com answers all on a 1G timing belt job. It explains what the battery tie down mod is to replace the "special tool", which is nothing more than a long threaded bolt.Also, if you're looking to get the crank pulley loose, DejonTool makes a handle holder that bolts to the pulley...

I'm pretty sure he's talking about buying a 2G AWD Talon. Depending on the year (especially if it's 97-98), 8 grand is about what you can expect to pay for one in excellent condition.

If you have access to air tools, I got my crank pulley off with a massive ass impact. To do the timing belt it's generally a good idea to have the "special tool" to press down the tentioner.. But I've done my last 2 belts without it. You could always resort to threading your battery tie down...