i had to find a nonturbo 1g water pipe, it has no water fitting in that area and will work perfectly

i personally went with a light pressure plate (stock) and a 6 puck solid hub copper metallic disk, dont slip and has easy engagement.

its way low.....im sure 145 is the limit. i usually get 185 across.

in high end racing they dont use high back pressure turbine housings, lag is not a concern as much as crossover and VE. they do indeed tune for primary length. take a look at the lemans racers or top drag racers, they all have long primary tubes with low back pressure (higher a/r) turbine...

i was in the mid 12's on my ported 14b and SMIC with a 2g mas, 2g mani, 2.5" atmosphere dump o2 housing, 2.5 downpipe, straight exhaust after, 1g "A" cams, hallman MBC.no fuel control back then.....i learned the hard way.

i would imagine this topic was posted about millions of times already. 1g and 2g lifters interchange, there are new and improved lifters available from mitsu, there are solid lifters available if you know how to use them. then you could also try to remove them and clean them out if your cheap...

are you sure it s your head that warped, the block deck could be marred or warped also. where would you mount the cyl. head temp sender anyhow??

they should be fine for 350-400 whp i believe. if not try crower.

i also have mine hooked up so that i dont lift off the gas pedal between shifts, so i dont blow my boost out the BOV.

I always warm it up.....just for oil pressure to raise up and lube everything, plus metals are more elastic when warm so i have less fear of breaking stuff...

i would rather have my car run very cold on any day, period. yes i know what a thermo is for and could car less, i just know it runs much better with out it. and keep in mind when i see you say something i think is absolutly retarded, i will grill you on it. i did say it was not good for the...

i dont run a thermostat on my car and it hovers around 130 degrees in 80 degree weather. it is much better feeling like this, alot of people come to me raving about how much better it feels on the buttdyno, but i have no dyno pulls to state a fact. too bad its not good for an engine though (it...

i wouldnt worry so much about finding the "right" car to start with because when it all comes down to it youll be replacing almost every part either because it is a POS and breaks or there is a better version....except for the 4 bolt rear, thats a good start. save money for the parts you ll end...

on my 1990 fwd talon i got a best time of 13.97 @104 w/ a 2.2 60 foot.the car had all free mods, a mbc, crushed BOV, no cat, k/n and a gutted factory muffler. also had no ac or egr system pieces and water alcohol injection in front of the turbo (alot easier and cheap, but made a huge...

i think there is plenty of clearance with the bumper removed. if you can get the header and end tanks welded up cheap, do it, my shop wanted just as much money to do it all as an intercooler that was brand new and garunteed not to leak would cost......so i went new

rs, awd. ONLY free mods and did a 13.002. the video is in the TRACK forum under "handing a hunduh its @$$".

the endtanks mount on the cores header plate, once damaged its expensive to fix. i went through this myself and decided to just buy a new intercooler. what are the demensions of that intercooler anyway?

sounds big enough, is it top to bottom flow or side to side?

it will cost a ton of money to get it cut because you destroy the header that the endtanks are on. i tried this once and the shop said it was more cost effective to go with a new unit.

ive seen them pull almost 300 whp on dynos. you may need injectors if you raise the boost. the stock smic will not be good for road racing, may actually be your biggest draw back. it will have alot more pull and much added top end ability.

i totally agree with the big shots dsm view benwah has....... their performances are just as admirable as a kid doin low 12s with no money. when you have money from sponsors, R&D, and a buisness, being top of the food chain is expected.

ya, sounds pretty probable. thank you

try this page, it has all you need to know about that stuff with every compressor map from mitsu i can imagine. btw the vfaq site has the 14G maps, not B.http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

is it possible that they might buy and sell mitsu remaned turbos?

when the turbo suks in air, their is a pressure drop in front of the compressor. usually compressor maps take into account for this drop. any way you can shove more air to your turbo, it makes it work easier by not having to spin faster to pack more air, as their is more air in front of it...

you should have tried pump gas after the changes to see if it was the gas or settings making knock....

i just finished rebuilding my friends b16g turbo from rre. it had a good amount of shaft play in it, so i took it down, cleaned it and replaced the worn bearings and seals etc. upon inspection i noticed the back of the compressor whell was damaged BEFORE he got it because it looked like it had...

ive seen them in the low 14.s, cold day, sea level, with a 1.8 short time.in my 1992 rs with free mods i did a best of 13.00 @104 and a 1.7 short time

if you take it from the head , it will usually only go to 50 psi or less due to a reilef spring in the head, instead take the oil psi from the oil housing and you will get much higher readings. i averaged 40 at idle and 110or so @ 2500rpm +

i got run over in my rx7, got a gurt neck, tried to sue but couldnt because it has been all soft tissue damage so far. i wouldnt make up a stort either as they may always turn around and counter sue for lawyer fees and damages to them for fraud,

it more than likely uses the t3 exhaust bolt pattern instead of the mitsu bolt pattern.

any metal that goes through extreme heating and cooling cycles will warp if there is not enough material to dissapate the heat effectivly. also slotted and drilled rotors have a much higher probability of cracking due to the man made stress risers when the holes are drilled (you cant chamfer the...

here is a spearco page that has two diffrent water temps cooling the intercooler, the air temp in and air temp out. even with 110 degree water, its still nearly 100 degrees cooler than my smic. 110 degree water is HOT, my car runs at 115-130 on any given day (no thermostat and both fans always...

ive seen more than a few places try to sell them but come up short....it doesnt discourage me in the least. my car is not a daily driver. hardly even sees sunshine.......ive driven her 6000 miles in 2 years.

yes, but it takes x.xx Ms for the vacum to hit the upper side of the bov and start to cause any sort of reaction, by that time the surge wave has passed it by. the intercooler piping will ony be 4 inches from intercooler to TB and 6-8 from turbo to intercooler.

they have made it. buschurracing sells a filter reloaction pipe to where your smic was.not really an advanced tuning question though...

people like different things, i prefer water, you prefer air. water is proven to have much better results. manufacturs do not use them MUCH now because of complexity and costs....ever buy a smic for a dsm?? they are outrageous just like a stock turbo, the prices are pumped up for dealers..i have...

i wouldnt worry about the hiss sound, that is what the evaporator canistor is for, to purge those vapors and pressure from the system, i think?

ok, i have the same question with a different setup though. if im going to a water cooled intercooler it will be along side the head where the battery is and the i/c pipes will be very short. i imagine the shock wave coming back from the throttle plate closing suddenly is much quicker than the...

i believe one is vented so you dont get a pressure build up in the tank (for carbed cars so as not to flood the bowls mostly) and non-vented which i think dsms use as mine always blows air out when opened.

what does the car do or not do?? grind, not move, slip or have a hole in the side??

thats an AN style line on the botom i believe, and the one on the top looks like a brake line. they have two different chamfer angles at the end and wil not properly mate for a seal, is that your stock steel line? how long is the AGP line, is it long enough to get down to the filter housing...

i wasnt asking about that engine, thought anyone who had done it would be bright enough to put in the DOHC twin turbo.

it doesnt need a huge radiator. most use the ac condensor or a small tranny cooler. if you can find a honda dx radiator, its half the size of our dsm one and holds a good amount of water. you dont need an intercooler at part throttle unless your climbing a mountain, if your not making boost...

ive been in cars with bigger turbos just slapped on, and the difference is night and day. there is way more power up HIGH because that is when our 14bs and t2smalls run out of breath and cfm catches up. you should atleast have fuel control for them though due to the larger amount of cfm taken...

"For some reason my cams have a R8 number on them. I belive they came from a 1990 Galant j spec.The new exhuast cam I got in with my head say R8. I double checked them one is a b and one is an 8. Which one is better?"are you sure your looking at the right area....the end towards the cam...

i have a stutter box on an awd, love it, spin all four in first and a little bit of chirpping in second with no lift to shifts because it cuts ignition between gears too so it doesnt blow boost out the BOV. have 2 staging limiters and a way better spark, idle is very smooth now. oo i can launch...

you dont need a 100 percent efiicent radiator....they obviously did not read the enitre tech post. it only makes heat under boost. you dont drive under boost nearly as much as you cruise or are off boost. air is cooling the water system when you move or have the fan on. then when off throttle...

if it was easy to explain the physics behind the way air acts people wouldnt bother askin, and i know how you feel enigma_man.15 psi is 15 psi...dont matter if its a mack truck or a geo metro. 300cfm is more than 600cfm....but compare when it makes that 600cfm at 15psi from a compressor...

ive had an ongoing argument with a friend about a 6g72 engine swap. its the 3si vr4 engine. dont care if it went in a 1g or 2g, did it ever happen or not, i have found nothing on it.