What possible problems could come about from not having the coolant sensor hooked up?

I am not getting a code for the MDP being unplugged, not sure if it is checked off on DSMlink or not, but it won't hurt anything with it not being connected to the vacuum hose will it? In the first pic, it is down below where the radiator hose goes from the head to the radiator.

I circled what I was talking about in red so it would be more clear. Its a 1G engine in my 97 gst. 1G intake mani as well. Thanks

Alright, I am trying to figure out what this thing is, I tried to unplug a vacuum hose from it to see if it was bad, but it turns out it was just glued onto it or something, cause the plug is very shallow and rounded. Also, in another pic, I am wondering what it is, it has connectors on it like...

Well, I have a 1g engine with 2g pistons, intake, exhaust and thats about it... I remember reading that when you do the BCS restictor mod that if you forget to plug the BCS back in you only get like 6 psi of boost, mine is plugged in, but maybe it is bad or something.

Yeah, I had a feeling before I got dsmlink that I wasn't hitting full boost, and now I guess this confirms it, I think the BCS might be bad since that restricts boost to 5psi when it is bad right? Any way to check it out? Thanks.

Alright, well when I finally got it in and tried to start it, it wouldn't start so I was about ready to push the car over a cliff, but then I switched the injector plugs and it started right up... anyways, all I can say is awesome. Here are some logs I made tonight, wondering if some of you...

Alright, I have been searching the forums for about 2 hours now because I swear I found this website for a company that sells 95 eprom ecu's somewhere on this board, but I couldn't find it again. If anyone knows what the webpage for the company is, please let me know. Thanks.

Does anyone have a datalogger with the potentiometer mod, I would be interested to see if the timing issues that have caused some peoples engines to blow with this mod are really as bad as they are made out to be. It would seem that tricking the ecu into thinking you are at a higher altitude...

When the computer throws the misfire code, it also puts your car in a sort of safe mode I believe, which is the studdering you are feeling. As for the potentiometer fix, do some creative searching on it and you will find that most people consider it a rather risky fix since it has caused a few...

Well on the yahoo 1gina2g group, there are a of posts about the random misfire problem. I have found a few on here as well while searching around. I think its one of those things where sometimes the ECU doesn't like it and sometimes the ECU doesn't car, but my car is so awesome that it died...

Well from what I have read, the Random misfire error occurs after doing a 6-bolt swap. The reason is because the 6-bolt doesn't have a crank angle sensor like the 7-bolt does. Therefore you have to use the cam angle sensor for both readings, which provides a rather inaccurate reading for the...

Alright, i'll take a shot at painting em when I get back home from finals in about a week and a half. Does anyone have any tips for getting the lip to be nice a shiny? Thanks.

Has anyone actually had experience with painting their stock rims, if it will come out like that last pic, it would definitely look good. Thanks for all the help guys.

I think if ECU+ could somehow incorporate the ability to turn off CEL checks, i.e. Random Misfire, like DMSLink does, then it would be the perfect alternative for 2g guys who have done a 6-bolt swap and got the random misfire problem. I know I would gladly buy it if could fix my RM problems for...

Alright, I am not sure if this is just how the 4G63 is, but when I take my car to redline, when it gets to about 5k and up the engine sounds like its gonna explode. It is incredibly loud and worries me. Is this just how it supposed to be? I used to drive a civic and it was loader in higher...

Thanks, the color is about what I would hope it came out like. Not sure how I feel about it though... maybe see what it looks like a little lighter?

I was wondering if someone could photoshop what my car would look like if I painted the stock wheels gunmetal with a polished lip. Just wanna see what it will look like before I actually go through with it. Thanks.

Would the timing be getting pulled if it was too rich or too lean? I messed with the MAF screw on the bottom of the unit and I have it about half way open. Could I possibly fix the timing problem or help it by adjusting the screw back one way or the other? Thanks.

I was looking at that ECU+ as well, how is that not better than a pocketlogger? It logs data at faster rates and it also lets you edit settings such as fuel and timing. To me it seems like it is the same as a pocketlogger and SAFC combo IMO.

I have a 97 GST with a 6-Bolt swap, and I have the TPS unplugged to deal with the random misfire until I get DSMLink. Anyways, whenever I accelerate and hit boost, the car gets moving, but about a second or two after I hit boost, the car feels like it is holding back, almost like I let off the...

Well, what is the stock ride height of a 2G GST? Guess this means I am gonna have to buy some new springs at the very least. Sure does look sweet with it this low though. :(

Is there another type of camber kit I could get that would leave the arm alone? Also, What shocks would keep the car stiff enough to not hit the arms? Tokico's?

Sorry about the lack of information. I actually installed the camber kits on the front and rear, and the upper A-arms were pushed out due to correcting the camber. I'll have to take a look and see exactly what hits, but I do believe it is the upper control arms. Are there any aftermarket arms...

I installed front and rear camber kits on my 97 GST and got it aligned properly for within spec camber. It was dropped when I bought it, only lowering springs, I believe stock shocks. Anyways, after they adjusted the camber they said that now stuff was hitting on bumps. What do I need to do...

thanks, i'll check out the ISC and let you know

So I don't need to plug the last one in to anything now since I have the 1G manifold right?

Do you know where can I get a new relay for the second pic and what kind I need? And I should do what with the third one? Thanks for the reply as well.

and last...

Next, what is up with this?

Ok, I decided to take some pictures of some things I am confused about rather than trying to explain them. So hopefully some of these confusions are what is causing my problems.First... is this hose supposed to be connected to anything? I had a 6-Bolt swap, with 1G head and intake...

Well, I think its a 1g intake manifold with a 2g throttle body, I have been messing with the BISS, and when I turn up the idle to about 900rpm, then the drop is less noticeable, but still there, the wires and coil pack have all been replaced trying to fix other problems, I have been wanting to...

Ever since I had my 6-bolt swap on my 97 GS-T, I have had a pretty crappy idle. The actual rpms are ok, right around 700-800rpm, but they fluctuate pretty regularly, it will move up or down by only 20-50 rpm or so and then every 3-5 seconds, it will make a much harder jump that I can feel, like...

nope, i can try to run them sometime this week, i just need to buy a pressure guage from autozone or something right? then take out the sparkplug and stick in the guage and then start the car?

bump and update...alright, along with the above problems, it seems that the flywheel cover under my car (lower flywheel cover i would assume) is not there, i can see my flywheel when my car is jacked up, how much of a problem is this, and where would i be able to get a new one? the dealer...

alright, heres the deal, i had a 1g swap done on my 97 eclipse a while back, prob a year since the start of the swap, but i have only had my car back with me for about 6 months. anyways, had a lot of problems with the place that did the swap, basically they suck and didn't know shit... so i...

well, it was already lowered when i bought it, so to the best of my knowledge, it is dropped about two and a half inches with springs, not coilovers, and the shocks say kyb on them, but they look stock, iono if the car comes stock with kybs or not... the tires are 225/50/16 kuhmos

alright, i just put on some camber kits for the back of my car, now when i hit a really bad bump or turn left and accelerate, its makes a weird sound from my rear passenger tirewell, the sound could be anything, scraping, creaking, who knows, all i know is it is pissing me off cause i can't...

how about the only upgrade worth having.... RB26DETT

its back in the shop, but they haven't had a chance to look at it yet, i guess i will go ahead and try new plugs and wires if nothing else works, although i think they are new anyways from the swap. also, on the way there, my friend said that there was black smoke coming from my exhaust, so now...

alright, this damn car is giving me too many problem. my car died of crankwalk about 2 months ago, since then i have had a 6-bolt put in to relieve my worries about walking again. now it just seems i have a whole new set of problems. its about 1800 miles after the swap and it has already been...

so simply using an afc to get all the settings right won't stop the random misfire? if so, then dsmlink would be the best way to go as i see it.on another note, i just got fuel cutoff today when i was driving around...accelerated in second and sure enough around 5k rpms fuel cuts off...i am...

which one would be best to control my a/f, i have a 97 eclipse with a full 6-bolt swap, i am getting random misfire codes and running lean. the apexi safc seems to be the cheapest alternative, but i have heard the dsmlink is the best for the 1g in a 2g. other option is the greddy e-manage...

i did, it was the reandom misfire and bad knock sensor

no one can help?, it also feels rough accelerating in all the gears until it gets to about 3k rpm, then CEL just went off ealier, but i still want to find out if it just needs to be tuned with a fuel controller or if there is something else wrong with it.

i have had my car about a week now since after my 1g swap, did 500 miles of break in, then i tested it out on the freeway. when i am driving on the freeway, at around 65, when i trie to accelerate in 5th, when it gets above around 5 pounds of boost, the car seems to run really rough. my CEL is...

one more try, if these don't work, goto www33.brinkster.com/dyncaus/carsgst.htm to see it.

weird, it deleted my other posts of the pics... i'll try again i guess, here is the 6- bolt

yeah, i guess the shop forgot the t-belt cover, might have to go get it from them, and insurance didn't cover it, i was out of factory warranty and i didn't use insurance, just paid out of pocket