I just changed out my thermostat in effort to complete the overhaul of my cooling system and see lower temps here in hot ass Florida. I swapped out my 180*F thermostat and discovered it was stuck open, so my car was always being fed coolant. I guess this is why my car would take a good 10...

In the classifieds about 6 months ago someone was selling a custom ram air headlight. It was the absolute CLEANEST mod I've ever seen for CAI or ram air on any dsm. Not only did it look awesome, the headlight remained completely functional! It was NOT the one with a plastic cover in the corner...

When I'm cruising my voltage is great, right around 13.5. Even at idle I stay well in the 13s as long as I'm not running headlights or using turn signals, or anything else that draws more power. The a/c is the biggest drain of all so I avoid using it because it drops my rpms by about 40% at...

Right. I already have a high output alt. According to the computer diagnostic printout it came with, it outputs 165A @ 1800 rpm and roughly half that at 900 rpm. My idle in dsmlink is 950 rpm and rock solid. My normal voltage with no accessories on is 13.6 to 13.9v.I use my Apexi TT to...

The Unorthodox Racing lightweight pulleys are the same dimensions as stock, just 50 to 80% lighter. And lower rotational mass equals less parasitic loss (load on engine with the more accesories used, ie a/c). Less rotational mass means the pulleys will be able to drive the belts easier...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but it is my understanding that the balance shafts (which I have eliminated) are only to reduce engine vibration for ride quality and have nothing to do with engine balance, which the oem crank pulley/balancer is for. Otherwise, it would be very unwise for...

Hm, that fluidampr crank pully is half a pound heavier than stock. I think I'm going to go with a much cheaper and lighter oem one. I wonder why anyone "upgrades" to that if the oem one is typically good for 80k to 100k miles?

I've just been informed that getting their crank pulley wouldn't be good on a dsm. I'll stick with stock for that, but all the rest is a go! :thumb:

On their site they say they offer two types of setups. Normal belt setup for people with all accessories, and a setup for people who removed the a/c...which offers the most weight savings up to 90% over stock.They have dyno results on their site and state the following:Therefore by...

Dee, you are the MAN! You probably just solved all my electronic issues as I am ordering that bad boy pronto. You likely also solved all these peoples' problems here:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=151227254#post151227254Oh and just noticed you're a wiseman now, grats...

I have a 165A Alterstart alternator that is almost new. I also have issues with so much draw on my optima yellow top from so many aftermarket parts and custom cooling system that my voltage is unstable. I can't use my a/c without the a/c belt sapping the speed of my alternator pulley's...

I figured out the problem...the a/c condensor pulls over 1v from the alternator's output at equal rpms. When the a/c belt activates it slows the alternator pulley, thereby resulting in a drop in rpms and thus a drop in the output of the alternator. You can see this in action by monitoring rpms...

Nothing to do with ISC in my case. My ISC is the brand new black one from DSMISC.com. Idle rock solid.Ok, after monitoring this problem some more I have connected the problem to a large dip in voltage when the a/c is turned on... -1 volt to be exact. What I suspect is when my voltage plunges...

90A is so paltry I don't know why anyone would replace an alt with another one with so little juice. Alterstart sells several much more potent alts; mine is 165A. Same casing, lifetime guarantee.

Are you auto? If yes, then you can vent because the throttle plate is always open through the gears. Otherwise, yeah, what everyone else said.

Sportlines are just way too much drop imo. I have prokits rated at 1.3" and ended up being 1.5". Can't imagine with sportlines. Rolling the rear is all you need to do.It is so easy, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. You don't need that silly paint roller looking tool either, just get a...

Hm I don't know what some of you are talking about. IMO wrapping was one of the most effective mods I've done to reduce engine temps. It was not difficult, I even wrapped my 2G manifold which some people think you can't do for some reason -- much easier ON the car so you can really pull on it...

Since this problem surfaced only recently, months after I've been driving on 272s and my new alt, I don't believe that's my problem. Maybe if you can explain in more detail why you think that's the case, particularly high crank draws and a/c operation. I run high idle in order to keep my vacuum...

Try some of the suggestions in my "engine climate control" tech article in the tech guide section under engine. I had similar problems to you but now run 180 -190 in high heat in FL. There's a whole host of issues that could be your problem...try the simplest and cheapest suggestions first to...

Since my post was moved here and there is no solution yet, I'd like to add some thoughts on the suggestions brought above...1. I have a new ISC so I don't think that is the problem. This isn't caused by low rpms. 2. I have a new 165A alternator and an almost new optima yellow top. My system...

I'm experiencing MASSIVE power loss and lack of responsiveness from the engine when running the A/C. If the A/C is on, I have to floor the throttle from a stop in order to get power -- it's like using 4th gear on a manual tranny from a stop light. If I turn A/C off while giving throttle the...

I'm experiencing MASSIVE power loss and lack of responsiveness from the engine when running the A/C. If the A/C is on, I have to floor the throttle from a stop in order to get power -- it's like using 4th gear on a manual tranny from a stop light. If I turn A/C off while giving throttle the...

^^^Yeah I think you are right about the flickering knock while warming up...with my new cooling system I take a good 5 to 10 minutes to fully warm up and this does happen after the engine is cold I think.I might change my knock sensor next...it's just weird my knock issues disappeared...

Oops, I meant about 6 deg of knock regularly in the 5k range before MAP, then a single .4 deg afterwards. Very strange.I have noticed that my CEL flickers now and then at very low throttle randomly and very rarely. Perhaps I had phantom knock this whole time and the sensor needs to be...

I installed my MAP sensor yesterday and dsmlink shows it's functioning perfectly. I tapped into the stock MDP .5v wire for power and replaced the MDP pin 73 with the MAP output wire.I did a couple test runs with no change to my tune and registered a drastic reduction in knock...only a single...

You think that's bad...I upgraded my entire braking system except the proportioning valve and brake booster (which is good), and I still don't have 100% brakes. I put Baers in front, powerslots in rear, Goodridge ss lines, new master cylinder, Hawk pads, and had my system professionally bled...

The purpose of this tech guide is to show you how you can fully control your engine temperature range. Not only will you be able to define your operating range at will, but the system dynamically adjusts to the ambient weather temperature to keep you within the temperature range you specify...

No problems with mine so far, been a few months now. Not much use for it on a dd though. This mod works great but would mostly be useful for the track.The best thing that happened was that even with the mod switched off, shifting response got faster for some reason compared to stock. I...

If he gets the 12" 1650cfm SPAL, it's highly recommended to use a 30A relay. Use the stock wiring for the switch to throw the relay.

Cool I'll try that, thanks.

Agreed...and remember that the thickness rating is at the center of the fan (motor). It tapers off a lot to the edge.

I didn't wire this to my fan controller that regulates my cooling system now and after a hot day yesterday I realized why they suggest I do this. Right now my fans operate only according to temps and I want them to come on when I turn my a/c on. A/C without fans is pretty crappy and right now I...

The radiator vents were almost the last mod. Only the controller was last as it must be. I can't account for every situation - if you really want to know that you should try it and let the rest of us know. I can't answer that. This is for my particular setup and your results may vary. Every car...

So far it seems to be holding up just fine. When I go WOT I generate more heat by a few degrees, but it's really no different than if I sit at a light for a bit after cruising. When temps rise the controller's HIGH threshhold is eventually triggered and my temps are quickly brought back to my...

Ok, here's a video of "engine climate control" in action for one cycle. Turn up the volume and you can hear when my fans activate. I was idling in front of my garage after a long drive, 86F outside. Note that I set my controller to regulate temps between 180-190F for the best fuel economy and...

First of all, NASCAR stock cars don't have fmics, they are all motor and n/a. You're comparing apples and oranges.Second, as the beginning of this thread shows, there was a clear and large difference between opening up a clear path to the radiator, bypassing the fmic. This is proven by logs...

Exactly. I think my 150 low threshhold is cold enough. ;) Btw, the fan controller has other nice options. You can wire the a/c clutch control to the unit so whenever it see the a/c turn on your a/c fan turns on regardless of temps. There's also a fan delay system kind of like a turbo timer...

That does look pretty nice. If it had different wheels and wasn't so slammed it could definately be considered hot. I'd like to see a rear shot.

That information is at the beginning of the thread. Just take away the before/after results of cutting the radiator vents. But everyone's results will be different depending on what their whole cooling system consists of. There are a lot of variables at work. There's also a synergistic effect...

That looks really good. I first posted about the bumper vents but this thread basically turned into my project for my whole cooling system overhaul. I need to change the title a bit and add a keyword for "overheating" so people searching can find this thread.Of course I knew I didn't...

Who the heck would push the rubber in all the way inverted? It is there for a reason. And besides, he still cannot add more fluid than the top edge of the container or it would pour down the sides.The master cylinder itself cannot hold more than its internal volume of fluid as it is simply a...

Uh, hello? WTF Put your contacts back in and look at the bumper again. Look at the front bumper corner inlets. Wow, could they possibly be similar? Nahhh! And you might want to visit a dictionary for the definition of "random".Ignoring the fact that this project was for a functional...

You are describing the brake fluid reservoir, not the brake master cylinder. And it is virtually impossible to over fill the reservoir because the rubber hat in the cap will squeeze out any excess fluid as you screw it on. This is not your problem.

Get your intake temps down as much as possible by reducing engine bay heat and a cold air box allowing the turbo to pull only ambient air from below the filter (cut sheetmetal around stock smic uicp hole). Try and get intake temps under 100F, anything above and the ecu pulls timing and you are...

Ok I finally wired up my Dakota Digital dual fan controller and....SUCCESS! Because I lowered engine temps to usually a 150F ~ 210F operating range depending on whether fans are always on or left to ecu, all I needed was a digital fan controller to allow me to choose any temperature range I...

Mine is in the stock smic location and works fine.

dsmisc.com

linky no worky...

If you read my main bumper mod thread carefully and notice my objective stated many times, you'd know what temp range I am aiming for and in what conditions. You must be able to run the range I am in order to use a fan controller to maintain a custom range, otherwise you don't have the margin to...

Post in detail with logs and progression of mods like I did, I'd like to see it. Feel free to add to my other thread. You realize I can run as low as 140s right? First I took it to the extreme and now I'm using other means to control the range where I want it.