Anybody have any shops in san antonio that they trust that can rebuild an engine? I have a knocking coming from the engine. It starts up and I was able to drive it on and off the tow truck, but I need a shop to look at it and let me know what's wrong.
Was just browsing the ebay auctions and came across this GSX with a freaking 2.4 spyder engine swap :nono: Is there a benefit to this because I would see none? Gotta love the description "GSX'S were equipped with a turbo and this GSX has no turbo but is AWD, the turbo may have been...
I would say that is too much also. I browsed through ebay and saw 2005 models with only 35000 and they only wanted 22,000 buy it now 23,000. If only I had the money I would be whipping this one eBay Motors: Cadillac : CTS (item 170308594256 end time Mar-15-09 09:09:15 PDT)
I have checked and in last gear the rpms start at 4k when I step on the gas and it holds at 10psi rock solid all the way through. It also does this if I try and take off from a 30-40mph roll. Any ideas?
I am good to go getting a few things sorted on on my car. Mainly the coolant and intake temps. Trying to get them down so the Ecu is not pulling my timing. Anybody know a local shop that sells those air filter heatshields? I will be ready for tomorrow regardless though. I am bringing the High...
Just left pick and pull and they are getting ready to put a 1g white 1991 turbo on the yard. I checked the shaftplay on the turbo and it seems to be in good condition and is a 14b. Maybe a good turbo for replacement or upgrade for all of around 40 including tax. Everything is on it except the ECU.
Well a friend of mine checked the car out and-there is more to it then just an overheating problem. Vin# 4p3cs44u9le045150 The problems and bad signs he told me were.1. He said the car wouldn't even turn over, and they were trying to blame it on the battery, but he used his battery out of his...
my car has been in the shop for the past 10 days and before it went in, the wideband was reading perfectly. I disconnected the gauge when it went into the shop, and once I got the car back I hooked it back up only to see that the gauge was now showing irratic readings. During cruise it now shows...
I noticed he also listed it as a laser a day or too before that ad. The back end does look more like a laser. I was always under the assumption that 90 lasers were never available with an AWD platform, so either it is a talon or eclipse or it is FWD, but either way it is still turbo :thumb:
I have denso 660ccs on my car. The lower seals are interchangeable. I needed new seals, so I just bought the complete o-ring seal kit for each injector at napa for 6.01 a piece (each kit consisted of the o-ring, rubber spacer I think it is, and the lower injector seal) part number ATM-200400...
Yeah it will hold the boost through the shifts in all the other gears but as soon as it hits that last gear something is limiting the turbo rock solid at 10psi. I can't tell what the rpms are by then until I get the car back from the shop though.
lol well I won't be able to post a log until I get the car back from the body shop. I just dropped it off. So I will PM you when I post a new log. The wideband is an aem uego. It is wired into the rear o2 sensor pin on the ecu. So will I just log the wideband or both the wideband and narrowband...
Here are a few logs. I couldn't get the car to repeat the knock this time around so I don't know what is going on. So do you want me to log the wideband or the narrowband or neither because so far every log I have posted is with the narrowband?
My chip is set-up for 93 octane timing maps and an 11:1 WOT AFR. How do I drop the o2 trim? I just select 02 bank 1 and trim seems to come along with it, but it is not shown in pocketlogger. The o2 sensor was replaced a few months ago with the bosch oem replacement from autozone. I guess I might...
Okay boost problem seems to be solved now I have another problem that is keeping me from tuning. Can anybody tell me why I am getting this much knock before even hitting 3k from a stop. I am not flooring the gas either. Here is the log
I swear over the past few weeks I have had a new problem EVERY day with this car lol. Here is my newest problem that I need help with. Going from a complete stop (not even flooring the gas), before I even get to 5psi the keydiver knocksum gauge is rising rapidly and I can feel the timing being...
ok that is good. Luckily it wasn't tomorrow. I just ran into a fuel pump install snag since the nut doesn't want to unscrew and the freaking fuel pump and the ring dont want to go back on.
Okay so I was going install an evo fuel pump into the gsx and going in I thought this would be a quick install. WRONG....So I get to the part of un-doing the nut under the car and what do you know the 99% chance of not stripping the nut with a flare wrench was not in my favor, and it stripped it...
My car is an auto and the mods are in the profile. When it gets to the last gear, the boost will stay rock solid at 10psi and won't go higher. Through all the other gears it is fine, but as soon as it shifts to the last gear no matter if the boost was just at 15psi it will fall down to 10psi and...
Jeff99GS it sounds like the OP didn't file a dispute. It sounds like paypal thought the transaction was unauthorized by the amount or some other variable and they put the money on hold until they can verify if it was authorized
Well I hooked a hose directly to the jpipe and wastegate and the boost sometimes stays rock solid at 10psi and then others it just creeps up the boost gauge to say 20psi so I assume I have boost creep going on correct?
Ok I replied to the PM before I read this thread, but for anyone else. Pretty much in terms of the uncontrollable boost problem. I have tested the s16g and an evo3 wastegate with my compressor and they both seem to operate fine. The boost will go to 10psi and then shoot up to 20+ with no signs...
I just sent you a PM about the boost problem that I have now lol so i can't run a log now because the boost is uncontrollable and constantly hitting 20+psi if I go WOT. My TPS shows 100 on the logger at WOT (verified before the uncontrollable boost problem) so that is good to go. I haven't used...
this is on a small 16g. Could timing being off affect the car like this? I mean that is an enormous gap in the rpm range in terms of full boost when before ANY tuning and ANY of the boost leaks were fixed the s16g would creep to 20psi by 3800, but now for some reason it barely hits 15psi at...
I don't hit 15psi until 5000rpms right now. I know before I put in the eprom and 660cc, the car was hitting 20psi by 3800, so I am guessing I might've jumped timing or somewhere between then and now I got an enormous boost leak that wasn't already there. Any ideas?
Okay got my seal in today. I also ran the byte test and I came up with 11S/sec with the 95 eprom. Here is the log in 1st. I am guessing that I will need to add some fuel on the safc around the 5000 rpm range to get rid of that knock correct?A little bit of the log was cut off
No I have not run the byte time test yet. I am assuming that is in the menu options. The chip is set for the 660cc injectors, I am not sure of the max timing but it is set for 93 octane timing maps, and an 11.0:1 a/f ratio. I will log again tomorrow after I replace my injector seals as I think...
Well I have an auto gsx and everything is in place in terms of tuning except the fuel pump. My setup is 660cc injectors, eprom with keydiver chip to compensate the injectors, stock smic for now, safc (currently zeroed out), rewired stock fuel pump (have an evo viii, but have been advised to get...
Little background before I state the problem. I have a 98 gsx and I put the wideband in my 2nd o2 spot so naturally the ecu throws the heater circuit bank 2 code every now and then, but I just clear the code and it doesn't come back until the car is shut off and restarted sometimes.Fast...
So I see one set of relay wiring instructions on vfaq and a different set here (they have the 30 and 87 pins swapped). Which one is correct for a 2g AWD ?
from tuners
* 30 - feed wire from battery
* 87A - Not used
* 87 - when cutting stock 12V pump wire, this is to the pump
* 86 - when cutting...
Yea I wouldn't drive my car there either with all the non-driving people that will be there. Opening night will be a a pain, not to mention a hot spot for thieves and cops
I have been monitoring my idle and cruising A/F raitos and I have noticed that it is now fluctuating around 15.3. Just a week or two ago it was normally fluctuating around 14.7. Is this normal or should I be looking for a leak somewhere?