Search doesn't seem to be working right...I just need to know what to torque the flywheel bolts to on my 6-bolt motor, I am using a alum. fidanza flywheel. Thanks guys.Scott

Here is my setup. (1990 GSX)Fully built head +1mm valves, full port/polish 2.3L Stroker motor, Eagle Rods and Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 compression Fp3 Cams (I have not purchased these yet, I assume they are the best for my motor) ZEX direct port kit 75 or 100 shot, haven't decided Supra Pump...

Here is my setup. (1990 GSX)Fully built head +1mm valves, full port/polish 2.3L Stroker motor, Eagle Rods and Wiseco Pistons 8.8:1 compression Fp3 Cams (I have not purchased these yet, I assume they are the best for my motor) ZEX direct port kit 75 or 100 shot, haven't decided Supra Pump...

Just get a vac line reducer. That is how I ran my BOV. And... DON'T DO THAT, unless you want oil in your boost controller... :toobad:

The other car is better looking, but that is easily fixed. Also, do you want a car that someone probably rodded the hell out of, or a stock one? Not to say that the previous owner of the GSX didn't screw it all up also. You need to go drive the cars, and talk to the owners and really check...

That is pretty much a no brainer. GSX. It has a higher blue book, so IF you decide to sell it later it will be worth more. I sold my 98 GSX back in 2000, and kick myself daily for it.... ROFL

Turn the boost controller off, and see what boost you get. Then you will know if it is a controller problem, you could have switched a couple of the vac lines up when you installed it.

Exactly.

I hear ya there, my point is to adjust the BOV. If the screw is very tight, then it will not blow off unless you make sufficient boost, know what I mean? How bout this....Make sure you have a good vac source from the manifold as stated above.Loosen up the screw on the BOVRev it a...

You need to put a load on the motor to make the boost needed to SET UP THE BOV. As I stated above. You can not set it at idle. That is the point I am trying to convey. The BOV will flutter when not set correctly.

Well, I suppose if you rev'd it a few times quickly it would produce boost, not very much though. I have a HKS Race BOV that is fairly large, vented to atmosphere, and the only time I have ever heard it blow off in neutral is with the launch function. I have never tried reving the motor a few...

I am wondering how you felt the BOV blow the boost off, when while the car is in neutral, sitting, you could rev it to 8,000 rpms normally and it will NOT make any boost. You have to be driving, and put the car under a load, or have launch control. Do you have launch control on your car? IF...

Agreed, make sure you have no boost leaks, and your timing is dead on. Then get the logger out and start tuning with that. Guessing just doesn't cut it. :notgood:

My bottomend is stock, but everything else is built. Stock motors are just fine as long as you don't do two things: REV TOO HIGH (Valve float issues) and TOO MUCH BOOST (I say this because it will become very hard to tune out knock at higher boost levels)

I just worked on a Stealth TT yesterday at my shop.... NO WAY are you getting that in there. Hell if you want a fast car, buy mine, and then drop some $ into it and finish it off and make a 10 sec car out of it.

All the articles I have read, give it good reviews. Very precise control with your jetting. I bought the Direct Port kit from SBR for $700, but did not install it. Don't know if I am going to use it anymore... Shoot me a PM if you are interested. I would recommend it from the research I...

IF you have DSMLink then get 850s+ and you will be good :thumb: I run FIC 1000s and the car runs awesome.

No offense but...Get out a tape measure and do a little physical research. You will be able to answer your own questions :thumb:

I have an evac type setup I built for mine, but you can definately cap off the intake manifold nipple. I suggest just getting a catchcan setup as stated above.

There were lock washers on them last time. The ones that fell out, were the ones that came with the wastegate. I'll keep a more closer eye on them this time.

I forgot to update. Yes, that was the problem. New gaskets/bolts and it's good to go again. This post was a waste of space, sorry. I should have looked at everything closer before posting. :coy:

I just went out and looked this morning, and BOTH of the SS bolts that the Tial came with to hold on the Dump tube FELL OUT!! I can't believe I did not notice it last night. That explains the noise like a boost leak.... Now would that cause a loss in boost pressure though??

On the way home tonight, I suddenly noticed that the car was boosting around 4-5 psi lower than usual at WOT, and also heard what sounded like a big boost leak. When I got home I pressurized the intake of the turbo for a boost leak test. I put 50 psi in there and I do not have any boost leaks...

I believe you need to change over the ignitor box also.... Sorry I can not help further.

I would say you DEFINATELY need to go DSMLink in your case. The ecu has a target timing and A/F Ratio it wants to hit. When you knock, it lowers that timing curve to control that. Without getting too complicated here, why trick your ecu to get results when you can simply adjust its parameters...

Take off the side panels, then the panels that cover the shifter cables, one phillips screw on each side, next remove the single 10mm bolt holding the ecu bracket on the driver's side and the 2 10mm bolts holding the bracket on the passenger side. You should be able to reach underneath and...

Not that there needs to be another opinion, but DO NOT go cheap as stated above. I went with the Supra pump for almost double the cost of the walbro and wouldn't do it any other way. I have also run multipe Walbro pumps in other cars, and I prefer the quietness of the Supra pump to them. I am...

Anything can be done.... You just need to look over the motor mounts as stated above, and check your axel lengths etc. You allready have a built motor, why not give it a try. I would look over a wiring diagram for ecus, and see what you need to change wiring wise for the motor. You could...

Bad boy, don't sell the MAFT..... LOLI also run the Fidanza flywheel and have NO problems what so ever with IDLE or STALLING.We'll have to meet up if I come up there next weekend, and I'll give you a ride in my car, so you can see how it runs.

I believe the SBR T3 cast manifold is in the works.... atleast that is what I have been told. It would be a HUGE seller hands down...Remember that the mitsu housing is not as good as a T3 BUT there are COUNTLESS guys on here that have gone VERY fast with it. I stuck with the mitsu housing...

Sell the AFC and logger setup. Kick in an extra $200 from somewhere and get the link. It is worth every penny. :thumb:

Seriously???The stock muffler will be quite a restriction, what is the point of having 3"s of diameter in you exhaust if you are going to choke it down at the end. You might as well have 2.25" exhaust if you ask me....

I would be happy to help tune it for you (The MAFT) next time I am in Seattle in a couple weeks if you want. I understand what you are saying about the lag of the 20G, I agree with that. As long as you have the logger, I guarantee that your car will run better with the MAFT than without it...

I would also like to know why you are doing this. The clutch I can understand, but not the MAFT and turbo. TURN THE BOOST DOWN. Especially if you are going DSMLink. As for clutches.... How bout the SBR3500? It is a street disk, and many on this board seem to like them. I installed one in...

We tuned my buddies 95 GSX with his dsmlink and the 550s should be fine. Definately rewire the pump, and you will need the front mount for anything over 16-18 psi on that sidemount depending on tuning of course.

First thought in my mind is the little button on the Throttle body that senses that it is closed is not adjusted right. Look at the TB and see if that is it.

Let's be realistic here.... He could get some 550s or 650s for probably $150 used. Have a chip made for $80. Get a fuel pump for $100 and be DONE. $330 plus a very small amount of labor just seems like the right thing to do in this case.IF you do decided to go ahead with this, which you...

Nothing to it, but to do it.....1.8T VWs run high compression stock and are very responsive to bolt-ons.Just do it, then post your findings for us all to see. Much better than speculation :thumb: .

Yes, T-bolts are the only way to go for intercooler piping. Any other route is begging for problems...

IF you make your own piping, then get the ends bead rolled or weld some small beads around the pipe ends about 1/8 in. Easiest way is just buy his piping kit and be done with it.

Yeah, I am so close to having it running, I don't feel the urge to do all the nitrous install right now. I should have it done by Sunday if everything is on schedule.

FP1s if you need to be in that price range, unless you can find a set of HKS 264s for a good deal. There is a member in the classifieds selling a set for $400 shipped I believe.Mild cams will be fine on your stock valve train, as stated above numerous times. I recommend HKS or FP cams. I...

Definately a warranty issue.

Allright. I guess a nice 50 shot won't hurt too bad will it :sneaky:. I need to line up a purge kit, bottleopener and guages. If the kit doesn't sell, I'll do it. :thumb:

That is interesting that #3 is significantly lower than the others before and after... Maybe one of your valves are not seating completely on that cyclinder... Did you have the machine shop check that out?? Just a thought.

I hear you Derek, but if I wanted a "built bottomend" I could have one. I want to use the stock bottomend because I just want to drive the car. IF it blows, I'll fix it and put a fully built bottomend in there with the direct port kit. The point of this thread is to see what people actually...

Good idea, but a waste of money for a $700 direct port kit I think. I will just hold onto it, and if I decide to keep the car, I'll build the bottomend and throw a 100 shot to it. :thumb:

Forge makes a very good product. There are countless guys in the VW 1.8T world running their Diverter Valves, and they work awesome. I have ran one in the past on one of my vehicles and it worked perfect for a couple years.

I have a fairly large Front mount and I was able to keep mine. Kind of a waste of time if you ask me.

Excellent suggestion, I am leaning that direction. If I decide to keep the car, then maybe next spring I will put a built bottomend in it, and the ZEX kit. Thanks.