thought some of you guys whould like to see this, i don't have the video on the site yet but you can go over to www.Dynotuned.com and click on the link that says "josh's Great Burnout". Enjoy :dsm:
NA manual 3000gt's came with the same tranny code as a turbo Fwd Dsm, i think off the top of my head it is like fm332 or something like that. but i am pretty sure that they change the bellhousing side of the case so it bolts up to the 3L block. if it even could bolt in, that tranny is huge i...
the rod should pop out when u remove the bolt and bracket, same on the t-case, and it should pop right back in with a little bit of force, you may have to roll the car a little bit back and fouth to get the two gears to line up before the locking sleeve lines up and pops into place.
i don't seem to understand how changing the resistance is going to change the dwell time, dwell is programed in to the ecu and is never changed, it is a constant. the resistance is just going to affect how far the coil is going to be charged before it is grounded. less resistance means that...
I was wondering if anyone knows what the difference is between 1g rods. i have several sets of rods some have different numbers but all visually look the same. the numbers on the rods are as follows: G6-0 on one set, G6-F on another set, and G6-W on another set. i did not have time to mic out...
The carrier bearing will not cause any slop in the drive train, the most likely cause if all the u joints are ok is the spider gears and the side gears in the carrier assembly, if you have been launching your car hard this is most likely the problem.Josh
1992 GSX
ASE Certified In Drivetrain
you will have to do it wtih out the threaded rod, un bolt your tensioner and release the belt tension that way, then you will half to put it in the vise and put the pin back in it. it is kinda a b**** but you can do it with out the rod. :dsm:
i tend to use just 80w-90 gear lube, it depend on how you drive your car i guess, in my case i used it manily for drag racing and if it wasnt being drag raced it was being pushed to it limits, so i found that changing the gear lube every 3,000 miles works for me, i choose this because by the...
It is possible to go fwd to awd to rwd with the same tranny but you would have to keep switcing the center diffs, which is not that hard, to switch one in the car it takes me about a 1/2 hour. Unless someone can make a switchable center diff. Hmmm maybe i will look into that. :dsm:
when they locked up they froze in one place, after the pads wore a little they stopped touching the rear rotors. so when i applied the brakes the rear calipers did not even move, thus causing only the front brakes to do all of the braking. i might say those calipers for future rwd burnouts! :)
That creaking noise in the back round is a Crane, their is a gravel pit behind the camera. it is not coming from my car.As far as the drifting lol, it was fun, i never did drive it in the rain but when it was dry out even in 4th gear when boost hit about 18 psi it would go sideways, it was...
the burnout last so long in second gear because i was on the brakes, my stock rear calipers were semi locked up so it was kinda like line lock in a way, it just was kinda hard to start out on the brakes and let out the clutch and be on the gas but it wasn't that bad. :dsm:
i think it a newer four bolt that did not see 1.6 60ft times or around their every time it was driven would hold up just fine. That diff had about 113,000 miles on it. :dsm:
the burnout started in first gear and then the rest of it is in second gear, later that day i did another one and easily got into 4th gear with out bogging the engine at all.
it all started when my rear diff. started to take a crap, i knew it was going to go some day because of the clicking from the rear spider gears, anyway i decided to take one of my 15 trannys laying around and build a temporary rwd tranny to blow up my rear diff. So i took my tranny apart and...
thought some of you guys whould like to see this, i don't have the video on the site yet but you can go over to www.Dynotuned.com and click on the link that says "josh's Great Burnout". Enjoy :dsm:
Awd Burn Outs Are Easy With Enough Power,
And If You Are Really Desperate Put 4 Spares On Just Don't Go Fast!I Have Done Awd Burnouts All The Way Through 1st And 2nd And Chirp Them In 3rd Gear.
ok if your pulged the hose going from your manifold vaccum port to your waste gate, You should never be opening your waste gate because you have no pressure to push your rod thus open your waste gate flange. there for when you plug that hose you should be running full boost of your turbo. 20+...
just take care of all the little problems first, soilder all of the wires! don't connect them with butt conectors! not a good soild connection. Check your fuel pressure. Your base timing should not affeted unless your crank angle/tdc sensor was rotated. If it was rotated you will want to set...
thanks, i will mostly just get a fuel cell, my tank is rusted to shit and i am about to do a fuel pump and i know for a fact that the studs will break off, i have soaked them in penitrating oil for months now and it isnt gonna help this one.
make sure your pvc system is working good if you are building up too much pressure in you crankcase it is going to force it out of the air inlet tube, thus going into your intake and out your bov. Beside pvc are about 10 bucks and it is consider maintance every 50k or so.
the way to tell if u have a 6 or 7 bolt engine is to look at the exausht manifold studs, if u have a 6 bolt they will all be 8mm studs all around. if u have a stock head. If u have a seven bolt their will be two 10mm studs on the far ends of the manifold and the rest will be 8mm studs, you all...
don't waste your time with a compression test, too many variables. Warm up your engine and do a leak down test on it, take off your raiator cap and look if it is bubbling out with pressure applied. also you might want to warm up the engine (tell you see the smoke) and then shut it off and fairly...
a stock o2 housing can make huge boost creep problems even with a 16g, if u have a 50 trim i whould definitely get a new o2 housing or port yours, besides then when u take that off you can see your wastegate and test that too to make sure it is opening.
look at your wiring diamgram and study the inputs to the ecu, if the computer does not see spark (even though it might be sparking) it will not fire the injectors. make sure the the ecu is receveing all of the inputs.
Try to swap your maf out with a knowen good one. the mafs on the dsm's can cause some pretty wierd problems. Alot of them go bad after a while and if you "bump" them when doing a turbo swap etc. it may ruin it or change the resistance enough where it might not run right or at all. give it a try...
I have been searching all over for a new gas tank for my 1992 gsx and can't find anything! They are discontiued from the mitsubishi, and it seems no aftermarket ones are available! Does anyone know?
you cannot just disconnect your drive shaft unless you want to replace your 400 dollar viscous coupling. if you disconnect your drive shaft if will overheat your viscous and there fore ruining it. if you are going to tow it get a flat bed.
don't worry about it, it is normal, the cam sprokets stick out just a little bit more than the idler pulleys so it off sets the belt a little bit. it will be just fine.
i am building my engine for my dsm and i am about to put the head on, i was wondering which head gasket is the best, i have heard alot about the 4 layer ones and i was wondering if i should use that or the stock one that comes with the engine?