If the studs look like crap anyway i would just go ahead and pound each one out first with a 4lb mini sledge. then the rotor shouldn't be too much of a hastle after that. And a map gas torch can do wonders.

Sure you can do anything you put your mind to.HUGE make sure you get the parts from the same year group as your car. the gas tanks and fill necks are different in a 98-99 vs 95-97 it just makes the job easier if they are the same. the fill necks have to go with their respective tanks. examples...

no surprise everyone is still bitching

I love everyone complaining about maintenace. Like they are constantly doing maintenace to keep the car running. What ####ing maintenace are you doing Everyday? Seriously in reality it is an older car that was designed to handle 205 crank hp. People want more and more and more as cheaply as...

a cylinder leak down test is more accurate than a compression test.

so just get the headlights from a 97-99 and call it good.

any update?

bad info you DO NOT need an afpr to run a 255 i have been running one for years with the stock regulator with no issues and this is now my 3rd dsm like this, 2) 1G's and my 2G spyder GSX

ecu is fried or not getting power

awsome sounds great

also really quick for the person that asked awhile ago about FWD rear bushings there are NO bushings in the rear subframe of a FWD car and the front subframe is the same for AWD and FWD anyone that has done the FWD conversion to AWD can confirm all of this.

ok hook up an air compressor to the wastegate and slowly add air to monitor its movement if you are worried it isnt working properly, also see how much pressure it takes to move it, most stock wastegates are 10PSI. and the stock boost gauge is worthless litterly it barely even knows the...

thanks for the info not what i wanted to hear but good info still.

Ok simple question for all the guys that have been into the insides of a manual transmission.I am doing an AWD swap to my GST Spyder. the AWD trans from the donor is in unknown condition with well over 140K miles on it.now the FWD trans i have was just rebuilt and i paid really good...

very vauge information buddy what you have to do is clean the leak and track down where it is coming from and then if you cant figure it out come back here. at lease get what kind of fluid it is engine oil or gear oil.

ok now look here is the break down:first main differences-1G has 3 motor mounts and 1 tranny mount.2G has 1 motor mount and 3 tranny mounts.FWD:1G can use 1990-1999 for 2G tranny they just use the 1 mount they always use2G can only use 1995-1999...

seams like you are correct thanks for the info even though you found your own problem im sure someone will find this useful.

impossible to diagnose a car that isnt showing the symptoms. have to carry tools with you until it acts up again and diagnose it then.

the front case is the oil pump and they are different. dont put a 2G head on a 6 bolt have you ever looked at a 1G head vs a 2G head side by side? OMG what a huge difference in port size.

you have to have something restricting your coolant flow some kind of scale/rust maybe blocking the cooling passages in the motor or radiator.id take the radiator out and back flush with a garden hose and see what comes out. normal flow in case you didnt know is in the radiator from the top and...

weel hop is what is killing you brother no FWD can handle wheel hop. to stop wheel hop you have to learn to slip the clutch that is your wear point for a good reason. 400 for a good clutch = much cheaper than a 1400 dollar tranny rebuild. other things you can do to stop the hop poly motor/tranny...

first i would like to know if any gear works like 2-5 if no then it likely isn't your tranny/syncs. ok and a master can be bad and not leak i have seen it several times now what you need to do is recruit a friend and have him go under the car and watch the slave to see if the rod moves when you...

i agree 5K is a worthy price of a clean car with a pretty good list of mods. I say 100% jump on it before someone else does.

if it is a leaking head gasket as soon as you start it from cold rev it up a few times then go squeeze the upper rad hose if it is hard then you got cyl pressure in the coolant. and did you get a true reading of temp from a non contact temp gun yet? it could be your temp sending unit is shot...

im in Agawam MA still working on my project but if anyone wants to meet up in the area and talk shop im always game

that doesnt mean you have all air bubbles out because i would definatly say AIR/STEAM BUBBLE get a non contact temp gun and check upper radiator hose see if the temps match

still possible the ecu is the culprit

i agree 100% 2 year old fuel is your culprit it looses all octane and leaves hard amber stones that clog everything.

i got one 10 years ago at a autozone so to tell you the truth i havent looked for one since them. ill see if i cant locate them for you guys.i just did a quick google and i came up with this quick i will search some more though because i think mine was like 45 bucks if i remember right...

sounds like air in the line to me or a loose bleeder, and also check that spongy rubber clutch line for dryrot.

nice id like some in black hehe

looks great

i got a used fidanza FWD fly wheel we can work something out for if your interested. and im only in MA PM me if interested

everyone has an opinion and thats just it an opinion. for a brand new motor conventional 5w30 for the break in period because synthetic is too slipery to properly break in rings and bearings. after that i run mobil 1 15w50 never had any issues of too high oil pressure seeing how synthetic pumps...

sorry to hear about your foot bro just keep some ice on it and hope for the best

I personally like reverse bleeding get a one man brake bleeder kit that pumps the fluid up into the slave. why fight airs tendency to float in a liquid just start with an empty system and pump fluid up into teh slave bleeder until the master is full.

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definatly syncs mine used to do the simlar in 4th

sounds like there was a problem with the 1G and someone didnt know what they were doing and threw all kinds of new OEM parts at it till the problem stopped. but id keep your car you know alot more about it and are already comfortable in it.

sounds like a great time for ECM Link

I say this you cant argue with a proven fact of eliminating the balance shafts it is Tried and Proven True. several hundred times over.

again the compression ratio isnt as important as the fact that they are cast aluminum and not forged. i would not use them.

+2 on the plate im still LMAO

also is it the stock plastic POS or did you change it out yet.

its a good possibility with oil pressures 30-40 PSI at idle that he was running 20w50 conventional when you bought it. then with mobile 1 10w40 lower weight and synthetic your pressures dropped. also a safe bet unless you know what was run previously the first 2 oil changes should always be...

i would invest in a test light/multimeter and work from the battery out to see where you lose your voltage.

bring it to a machine shop whey can dip it for you pretty cheap i bet to.

lets put it this way i did a FMIC in 2001 on my 97 spyder that came from florida and still has 0 rust to this day never mind when the car was 4 years old and i also broke 3 out of the 5 top bolts. in my opinion i would drill them and install new stainless bolts.

good info there locke didnt know about the E on sticker

well sounds like the ECU change was the right answer, you cant argue with months of not doing this after the change. Now the question is what keeps making the ecu bad. or possibly just throw the AT ECU back in to see if that helps again.