i originally wanted moderate power (with moderate costs) so i went with the 16g, but now that i've gone through two BS 7bolts, i decided to go all the way (that my budget allows) and do a built 2.3 6bolt. I'll eventually go up to some ball-bearing turbo that is streetable, but not quite yet.
sorry this thread has been dead for a while (i used the search), but i'm actually doing the exact same setup very soon!I'm using mahle pistons, eagle rods and all arp stuff with the 2.3 6bolt, b-shaft eliminated. *I'm leaving the head stock, putting in 650cc injectors, safc/blow-thru setup...
the other day i left my parking lights on while at work, my battery died and i jumped my car. now my greddy TT's blue display is always on, but it doesnt actually work, none of the buttons do anything.i tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the neg. battery terminal, that didnt fix it...
ehh don't worry about Defiant, he has a tendency to disagree with just about everyone. i'd assume that a product sold by nearly all the biggest import aftermarket companies would be useful. i know for a fact that i get use out of mine since my dsm is a daily driver. when im late for work, i...
sorry to stop the good vibe of this post, but most people on these boards haven't tried more than one aftermarket fmic... so i dunno how useful this poll really is. ask some dsm/tuner shops, theyve likely seen many different cores/setups and could give a more weighted opinion. they also have...
my friend and i were in a '92 camry (4cyl) and we rolled up next to some grungy-ass looking guy in a green geo metro with flame stickers on the side, his donuts were maybe 2-3 inches thick. we looked over and kinda nodded at him. green light. the guy's front tires make the cutest little squeak...
psyche! but seriously, my engine crankwalked, the guys at the shop here in minneapolis (who specialize in DSMs mostly) said it's the worst case of it they'd ever seen. you could actually move the crank back and forth with your hand, it would VISIBLY move. :laugh: at the point they told me...
i put an act 2600 on my 2g m/t tsi last summer and now it's walking... only 100k miles total. im swapping the motor for one off an A/T tsi next week (80k miles), so hopefully this one wont walk or wont walk as fast =/there was a time i thought i was safe from CW... then i started modding...
it fluctuates very slowly between .05 and .08v. i just ordered a Bosche replacement from SBR, only $80 with shipping, unlike the Mitsu part, which is $120. ill post again to let people know if it was really a bad o2 (i hope it is).
still on the stock TOB. ive read a million threads about people having bad TOB's because their clutch would rattle when NOT engaged and would stop rattling when the clutch was engaged. my problem is just the opposite and im wondering what it is exactly :(
Ive been having a few clutch related issues lately and im hoping a new clutch fork will fix them.1. with the clutch engaged, i hear a steady rattling noise in the lower driver's side of the engine.2. every so often (mostly when it's cold out or i havent driven the car in a while) ill...
can anyone please help me out? i dont wanna spend $100+ on a new o2 sensor if im not sure that's the problem :(. i know a bad o2 will result in bad gas mileage, but ive also heard that it messes up part-throttle driving, but it's my full-throttle driving that's hurting...
another thing... if my ECU is getting very lean readings from the o2, it would overcompensate in fuel, making it rich, right? then why is my timing getting pulled so much and why am i backfiring at relatively low boost? :confused:also ill add that, when all these mileage probs started, my...
i just got my datalogger working today (and im very VERY happy with it, i suggest everyone with a dsm get one ASAP), i did a few runs and checked out my o2 readings and timing. at first i didnt know the difference between 02 sensor 1 and 2, so i couldnt come to any conclusions as i was driving...
no squeak on cold starts but the drive belt squeaks when it's cold outside. someone told me its no big deal and to use candle wax on it to quiet it down, so id waxed it up a few times over the last year or so... could a squeaky belt eventually cause the rattling im hearing now?
for the last few month or so, whenever i put my clutch in, my idle will drop a few hundred rpms. sometimes ill be turning and shifting into 2nd and my car will just die because i put the clutch in and the rpms dropped too low. ive already turned up the BISS screw so the car idles a little...
i considered propane but isnt the exhaust an issue? where does the burnt propane go? i assume theres some kind of exhaust piping for it but im not sure.
well see, i have a very big 3 stall garage and its only insulated on one side (the house side). as you can imagine, with all 3 garage doors opening and closing all day, it wouldnt retain heat very well even with a propane heater. trust me, i considered them.heat-wise, its not blazing hot...
here's the link- http://public.fotki.com/parsalian05/warm_house/i got sick of trying to work on my car in 10 degree weather, so i built this little enclosure to stay warm while i work. all it took was about 60 feet of 1" pvc piping (with connecters), rope, a lot of thick plastic sheeting...
a while back i put a 2.5 inch catback exhaust on and i creeped like mad so i had my evo16g ported along with my manifold and 02 housing. when i got the stuff back from the shop, i put it all back on wiht a 2.5inch DP. So: i now have a full 2.5inch exhaust and everything is ported.with JUST...
i didnt post this in "problem diagnosis" because the problems already been identified. i just need to know what to do to fix it. although if a mod could transfer this thread there that would be awesome.
i was taking out my manifold to get it ported a while back when one of the middle/top studs (and the nut) came out of the block. it didnt snap, it just kind of twisted out with the nut still in it. if youve taken your mani off before you probably know what im talking about.the stud looks...
i did the test a few days ago, didnt hear a single leak... although i have all hardpipes/greddy bov. anyone know where the air goes after you put it into the system? i figured when i took off the tester, pressurized air would come out, but it didnt. could i possibly have a leak and just not...
just thought id add that im having the exact same problem. im done with all stage 1 mods (evo16g) and now i cant boost past 10psi without it jerking :(. before i did exhaust (which i did last) i was able to boost 17-18 with no probs... so i dunno what happend.-nate
you're probably right, 550's and safc are next on my list, but how did i go from running 17psi safely to barely being able to run 10? granted... this is from totally stock exhaust to full 2.5inch turbo back w/ high flow cat and ported turbo/mani/02.
hmm, the thing is, its not a studder, its more like ... 1psi, 3psi, 8psi, 11psi, 12psi BANG! and the car rocks like its been rear ended by a semi :(anyone ever had this?
heh i actually come to fargo a couple times a year, i have family up there. ill be sure to check it out:). there arent too many dsm specific shops around here (surprisingly).i didnt have time to do much today but ill be sure to post once i figure out how to fix it-nate
thats possible, although i have colder ngk plugs and 8.5mm magnecore wires, ill check the gaps, its .030 for stock right? someone told me to go down to .025-.028 if i get more power though...
im on stock injectors, according to the stage 1 mod list, all i need for fuel is a bigger fuel pump, not injectors/afc yet (although theyre next on my list ;)). as for a boost leak test, i havent actually done it, ill do that today though. ive had boost leaks before, but they never caused the...
first off, my car, as of now, has all of the stage 1 mods done, evo 16g, 2.5in exhaust, ported everything, walbro 190 rewired, bov, ic piping etc.up until just recently, my car had all the stage 1 mods except exhaust/port work done to it. ever since my evo 16g was put in, the car would jerk...
wait, i thought you said you installed a new bov? if you still got the stock 2g bov, lose that thing :barf: . you also said you took off the MBC? im guessing you tried messing with it before you took it off? i just need a little more info and i can help ya out.
nice! i like how it looks with the smily bumper (i have one too :cool: ), did you just cut out the bumper supports yourself? let us know how you do at the track with that thing :dsm:-nate
my drive belt used to get pretty squeaky so i opened the hood, turned the car on and rubbed a candle against it for a few seconds. squeak gone.btw the belt itself was fine, just a little noisy. make sure you check the belt.
so would it be a pretty safe assumption that this intercooler is a good upgrade for a b16g with, at most, 650's and pump gas? (for the price, im poor)-nate
sorry bout the late response, i had misplaced my timeslip (found it in my helmet :rolleyes: )R/T - .632 :p
60' - 1.956
330 - 5.757
1/8 - 9.031
mph - 75.14
1000' - 11.861
1/4 - 14.265
MPH - 93.51id just link you to the timeslip but im having issues with my camera-nateps...
the thing is, i HAVE all the supporting mods, just not exhaust or an afc. without exhaust, is the 16g really gimped? it definately takes a lot longer to spool but it pulls way harder.
since the last time i brought my awd tsi to the track, all ive done is add a big16g and a 190 pump. my last time on the t25 was 15.2, but then again, i was running too much boost (17ish) with leaks AND my turbo died that same night when i got back!im still on stock exhaust (im getting...
mine does the same thing, it happens right around 1k rpms when i let off the gas. im pretty sure it started when i put my greddy bov on. the lower nipple isnt connect to anything so that might be it. it doenst sound like any huge problem, just bugs me.
awesome, thanks for the link! i think im gonna pass on the 02 dump when it comes to my time though... thats a bit too loud for me, porting the wastegate should be enough for my needs.
yeah im wondering about the sound issue as well, i heard a couple turbo'ed cars at the track that sounded like frickin jet engines. is that what the 02 dump sounds like?
one more thing, if you think it might be a boost leak, try driving it but only go up to about 2k - 2.5k rpms, then let off the throttle, check how the car is running, then try going up to 3k - 3.5k rpms (the car should be boosting, just a little though, but its enough) and let off the throttle...