Thats crazy but good news. Right now I have a couple of oil pan bolts that are leaking i need to take care of. Any ideas? I used grey rtv. I guess i could tighten down lil more just didnt want to break them
Just curious on how far I can go on stock bottom end. Thing is my motor has already been rebuilt but back to stock form except no balance shaft. I want to see how much hp I can make on stock bottom en reliablly. I will in future build the bottom end but want to play with car first for a little...
Well def not a hole in either one. Must be broken off flush and noticed my xcase is missing a bolt on the case itself. Awesome. Looks like tap and die for me tomorrow
Thanks. I read everywhere that they are not interchangeable. I just went outside to double check myself that the pan is in fact a 6 bolt. Guess my next move will be pulling it off the find the issue. I seen he had red rtv around the pan. Its just weird that the bolt holes are not lining up...
I have a 90 tsi awd and noticed that I have an oil leak. Looks like the oil pan is missing two bolts and my first thought was that the guy I bought the car from just tighten them to tight breaking the bolt off inside the block. Closer inspections and im not sure if the holes are even lining up...
Going to be using both but the antilag is on i changed rpm to like 4000 just to see if it worked
It just revs up like normal didnt know if clutch wire mod had to be done for antilag to worm whats your settings at
I have a 1g dsm with ecmlink v2.5 hooked up and working. My question is that I tried to setup my antilag and its not working. I need to know if im setting it up wrong or do I need to do the clutch cut wire thing. What am I missing. Any and all tips would be appreiciated. This is my first time...
Im thinking ill keep mine
One thing i cant figure out, my oil pan looks like its missing a bolt (or broke off) and i used my shop light to look at it. I found that the spot where the bolt suppose to go doesnt seem like there is even a hole for a bolt to go there. Weird
I dont think its fair trade just because mine has fmic and link. To find a 2g awd unmolested, whats odds in that with only 86000 miles. Main reasoni want to trade is ive always wanted a 2g love the way they look.
Ive got a 90 tsi awd slightly modded. I found a guy that wants to trade me his stock bone stock 2g tsi awd converted to eclipse. Thing is his car he claims only has 86xxx miles on it. Mine has 60 miles. It was rebuilt and tranny too. Just put new 6 puck clutch in also 60miles ago.
My car has...
I just bought link v2.5 for my 1g awd. My question is since I have link now, can I run without a maf sensor (open turbo) if I want to? I think my maf maybe bad but now I have link so im not worried about the maf. I do plan on going speed density within the month. I also plan on sending in my...
That was the idea. Take it 9k when i want to cause i could. My motor has been rebuilt with 0 miles on it. My clutch is giving me issues so i ordered a clutch masters fx400? Its a 6 puck with 170% more holding force than stock. Soon as i get it in ill break it in then have some fun. My next mod...
Ill take it one step at a time see where i end up. I would rather have reliable dd than a 1g that revs to 9k. Once in a while. I want to be able to drive my car and beat shit out of it without having to worrt bout breaking something.
Your prob right. Just didnt even think it was possible. Thats crazy talk. I willl be happy with 450hp dd for now. Later after i had my fun i might start building a race motor.
I just want to rev that high. Seen a youtube video with an evo takes his car beyond 9k to like 11k it was sick. Overall goal is only 450hp dd.Dumb question, whats this kiggly beehive? Ill upgrade the main and rod bearings.
Thinking of pte 6266 but come to realize its prob to small. Hx40 or 42r is next on list with 1200cc injectors. Magnus smim will be choice of intake mani.
Is anyone on here running up to 9k?
My door open interior light does not come on when on that switch but it will come on when i turn. It on. Far as i know jist the window is jacked. Also the other interior lighrs dont work either. Ill check fuses see if i find anything.
I moticed the other day that my driver side window would still go up and down without my key in ignition. Its weird but its draining my battery. Im not sure exaxtly where to start looking to solve my problem. Guess i could pull window fuse out but then they wouldnt work at all
Just ordered a clutch masters clutch kit. Im going to go ahead and change the clutch cause ive nothing but bad stuff about centerforce clutches. If in fact my fork or pivot ball are bad ill replace them then. I didnt get a chance to put in my master cylinder {hard to find time with 2 kids lol}...
I have started it alot but only drove it up and down my road twice. Second time i noticed when i pushed clutch in it took 2-3 seconds before rpms dropped. Yeah the grinding comes when i push slave all the toward driver side. Pretty sure its either
Fork
Tob
Pivot ball?
Maybe a flywheel not...
I was afraid of that. So putting in new fork and pivot ball fixed your problem. Looks like new clutch and fork and pivot ball. Gonna have to get stock or close to it clutch.
I looked at this video and I made adjustment just enough to where i can push slave in by hand. I kust noticed when car is running and i push slave in all the in it grinds. The guy told me the clutchis centerforce but never said anything bout flywheel. I am thinking the tob or pivot ball is toast...
No sure now
Before the clutch would grab right off. Floor i adjusted the rod on master cylinder. I really hope its master cylinder. I dont understand why i push the slave cylinder all the way in it sounds like its grinding inside the tranny.
I am having this problem with my clutch that I cant figure out. The car I bought has new rebuilt motor with 0 miles and aftermarket clutch. I cant seem to get the clutch to work properly. I try to go into first gear and it grinds and wont go. I have replaced the slave cylinder today with ss...
I dont think i really need afpr. I wanna try stay pump gas/race gas at track. Not sure whats involved with making my car e-85 friendly. Ill go as big injector I have to. The cams will be jun 272s ( if i can even find them anymore) if not hls 272 will work with springs and retainers.
This phone acting weird. Anyway I have stock 450cc and big 16g. Wideband is def going to be uego but gotta get my downpipe same time too install the wb into dp. Suspension will be done after link and injectors.
Cool. Thats what I was leaning on. I do have stock 450's but Im picking up some 1000cc injectors from my friend. I wanna get wideband but need downpipe same time to install both. I heard afpr are overrated. My last talon was bout 450hp without afpr. I just figured with link no matter what I add...
Hey whats up guys. Looking for a 3" downpipe local and wanted to know if any one around me has one for sale. I dont wanna pay alot for shipping so trying locally to see. I also want a cat back too as long as its not too pricey.
I have about 800.00 to spend and im looking at getting into the low 11's. So far on my car is
16g turbo
2g maf with intake
custom 3" cat back exhaust
walbro 255
pr fmic
center force clutch
hallman boost controller
boost, water temp, and oil pressure gauges
My motor is rebuilt with...
I have about to spend and im looking at getting into the low 11's. So far on my car is
16g turbo
2g maf with intake
custom 3" cat back exhaust
walbro 255
pr fmic
center force clutch
hallman boost controller
boost, water temp, and oil pressure gauges
My motor is rebuilt with 0 miles...
Just wanted to make sure im on right page. When i wire up my slim fans to push it would mean they are pushing air toward motor. When I wire up to pull they are pulling air away from motor. This is the case, I should wire them up to push rather than pull. Wouldnt pulling defeat the purpose trying...
I am having a hard time finding the wire that goes to the ips. I have a 90 tsi so apparently it has to be hooked up. I dont have link yet either. Can someone please post a pic or show me what wire connects to the ips. I believe its only one wire but I just cant seem to find mine.
I did find a non eprom ecu on dsmaprtout for 50 bucks. I also contacted ecmlink to see if they would lend or sale me a stock oem eprom chip. They would sell me one for 15 bucks and like 14 bucks to ship it. Looks like that may be my cheapest route. I think I may buy the non eprom just to have so...
Thanks for info. Im going to send my ecu I have now (socketed eprom) to ecmlink when I buy link. I need either a stock oem chip or non eprom ( cause they are cheap) to get my car running. In the long run I will be running ecmlink so dont matter what chip I have. My question is will a non eprom...
My talon came with an eprom ecu socketed. The only problem is that the stock oem chip is missing. I dont have the funds for ecmlink just yet. So my question is can I buy a non eprom ecu just to get me up and running?
Great I have a vpc 550 and 660 chip but I found its not quite as easy to put in as I thoughtCouldnt I get another eprom that isnt socketed. Wouldnt that act like a stock ecu
I have a 90 TSI with an eprom ecu that is socketed. My question is , will my car run right if i dont put a chip in the socket? Im still running on stock 450cc injectors. I am going to get ecmlink soon as I can. I just want the car to run until then