My guide has everything you need to get your started in the right direction. The only thing I really made from scratch was the exhaust manifold, and you can simply buy one and skip the making step. Read my guide, re-read it, google what you are confused about, google some more, then, after all...
Which thread are you responding to? That has nothing to do with the topic at hand.As someone else said, it depends on how well its built, and how well its tuned. If your just running a stock motor, set the rev limiter at what the factory has it at.
It's a very nice pulley, can be a bit of a pain to install, but that is due to the well known stubborness of the stock pulley. As for a kit including PS and AC pulleys, I don't know of any made for our cars.
The light dims because the alternator isn't spinning as fast when the rpms drop. Go get the Codes for that CEL, just because it has been on for a while doesn't mean new codes haven't been stored recently.
Well I personally wouldn't go with a knock off brand UDP, any imperfections could cause you trouble. The AFX isn't very expensive, I would just go with that. Thats just my opinion though.
Yeah what he said. Its easiest to reach from under the car, and the wiring connector on the stock sending unit is bright green(atleast on mine). Get a tee and tee off of it. You may need an oil pressure sending unit socket available at autozone.
Yes, I am curious on what you plan on doing with all of these too. Let us know if you plan to part any out.Otherwise, I would go with the stock manifolds.
If it helps at all, I ran into the same dilema of having my turbo installed but having to get my car to my school to weld up the down pipe. I took a 90* pipe bend, 2 exhaust clamps, and a 2 foot section of flexable exhaust pipe and ghetto rigged a nice asphyxiating setup to drive to make the...
Yeah, grab your stuff, and walk out backwards verry slowly, perhaps with squinty eyes and one eyebrow raised, but don't say a word!But yeah, our cranks are fairly heavy. I'd say assemble it yourself or find a better shop.
I may have missed something but why would 12.5% throttle at idle or off be good? The throttle should be closed at idle, all air intake is controlled by the idle air control motor which bypasses the throttle plate. Are you throwing a code for a TPS malfunction or is there any drivability...
I'm not saying your wrong by any sense, I'm just saying coolant can boil from other causes besides a head gasket leak. Your probably right and it probably is the head gasket, but a compression test is quick and easy and it can't hurt.
I think he should atleast do a compression test before jumping to the conclusion of his problem being a head gasket. The tips of my spark plugs have always gotten a little bit of white on them ever since I got the car. My compression has always been solid and I have never had any coolant boiling...
None of that points to a bad head gasket. Oil on the spark plugs would probably mean spark plug tube seals are bad. Oil in the intake by the turbo could mean blown turbo seals or possibly an oil return that has a kink or a tough bend in it not allowing oil to flow freely. Coolent boiling over...
You need to get the cam gears dyno tuned, don't just set them at what someone else has. Every car is different. As for the head gasket, most people use the factory MLS as far as I know.
No, that is a bad idea. You want the vacuum lines exactly where they are. If you hook them up closer to the turbo, you will be in front of the throttle body, which means upon closing the throttle plate, the engine will be getting vacuum but the fmu will read boost still until the BOV gets rid of...
Matt, I thought I read a thread on 2gnt.com where you said you ordered an OBX LSD and it was junk so you ordered a Quafe? Maybe it wasn't you, or maybe something happened that I missed. Either way, great job man!
Why would you put the 36lbers in before the turbo? Go back to stock injectors, go back to stock intake manifold(port it and polish it if you want) and sell the OBX on ebay. Problems should be solved. Use a stock regulator too.
Do not hijack threads with completely off topic posts. I'll give you a short answer, if your not replacing internals, you can't bore it. All the rest you can find with a search.
Rand, I got a CEL from my Hi-Flow Cat and did the resistor mod and it fixed it right up. You need a 1 Mega ohm 1/4 watt resistor spliced into the black wire under the driver seat. $.99 for a 5 pack from radio shack
Ok sorry I was MIA, just got back from vacationWhen it comes to our swap, true, but when dealing with engine design in general, the head has a lot to do with it. I am pretty sure you know that and meant that, but I just wanted to make sure that didn't confuse anyone.Otherwise just listen...
You need a little more then that to make a turbo kit for our cars. Here is a list. http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=181134Oops, sorry :p There are a few companies that make manifolds for us. Turbonetics makes one under the name Star, as Driggs said, you can buy a manifold/turbo...
I'll let you know in a month or 2. But, I have never heard anyone say they were dissapointed with the results. But the swap isn't exactly easy, and by your comment of "I have decided to stick with the 420a" I question whether you are familiar enough with these motors and cars to attempt it.
The 2.0 and 2.4 used the same cam gears, but opposite sides. Like X said, he needs to flip the 2.4 one over to the 2.0 side, then re-time it. If the marks on the cams lined up before then I believe the timing on that cam gear would just be 180 degrees off, causing no damage. Re-time it and get...
That could be your problem. You can't really dump fuel in with a s-afc on our cars.Don't call Brian a prick, name calling is not a way to get ahead on this or any forum, especially someone with Brian's knowledge and reputation. Members won't be so willing to help next time.
Or you can get a star manifold from http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=1346& thats what I got and I like it a lot. Its pricey but nice.As for the turbo, I dunno maybe something like this? Might be a little too small for your application though. What is that in the picture? A 20g? ROFL
WTF X, what was that? You were sooo nice to that guy, and didn't even use the :spam: emoticon once! lolTo the original poster, read this first.http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Sections&op=listarticles&secid=19Oh yeah, HKS doesn't make cams for us, and it is something you...
Do you have a picture of the turbo you have? I have seen 20g's with T3 flanges and I have seen 20g's with mitsu flanges, so I guess it depends on what you got. As for the rest, I do not exactly know. I would just keep searching ebay looking for oil line kits and such for your turbo. Sorry I...
I got a laugh out of it lol. I would really like to purchase their FMIC just for ease of installation, but for that price I could get a nice Ebay front mount and make all the piping and still have a couple hundred left over.Terry, I thought you got the Apexi FMIC, or is the hahn unit...
I would do a compression test to see if you did any damage. As for the leak, does it feel like you have boost or no boost? I know my boost gauge broke so it would only read like 1-2 psi tops even though I was boosting 6-7 and the vac still read fine. Also, if your wastegate is open all the time...
I disagree. Think about it, at 8 psi the 12:1 fmu is raising the fuel pressure 96 psi. Look at the flow patterns of the Walbro pumps below. The 190 doesn't look like it can keep up.
I don't really like that design. The turbo flange should be offset to the driver side, not passanger side. That manifold looks like it was made for the neon. You may run into fitment issues with the downpipe. I always wondered why the Hahn manifold had the turbo flange centered and then I...
Josh is right, I used the greddy harness for the 2g GS-T and it worked perfectly.As for your fuel pump, don't even bother with a 190. You need the walbro 255 lph HP(High Pressure) model. Think of how high the fuel pressures are with a 12:1 fmu at 8 psi. Anything over 8 with the HP and I run...
Actually lengthening the is not a good way to lower boost as it can make the wastegate be open at all times causeing spool to be much slower. The best way to lower internal wastegate boost rating is to do the spring mod to the arm.