I seen alot of variations the way people decied to trim the stock front bumper to better incorporate a FMICI need help the to deciede which way to trim mine for when I add a fmic in the spring.thx
Welded center and VC with removed front diff = Drift.The longest burnought u prolly ever see....and it came from a dsm :thumb:http://www.dynotuned.com/josh.wmv
I plan to clean the combustion chamber soon, it says http://www.outreach.psu.edu/users/res122/DSM/ that I can use engine detergant after i do the combustion clean to remove remaning deposiots.Is gunk brank ok to use.
They went with a smaller turbo because they upper the compression inhopes of a better low end and a more usable powerband.is it really better, I say no.
He didnt say anything about whats better after modding. Its just a known fact the 1g head is better. Im just stating whats better between the 2 cars.t25 is the crippling factor on the 2g
1gs will make the power easier. although the 2g has more things that are better, the ones on the 1g are more valuable to making more power.1g has betterHead
turbo
bov
intake manifold
lighter2g has better
Mas airflow meter
compression
TB elbow
exhaust manifold
o2 housing
I just want some opinions if my fuel tuning set-up will be sufficient for my car or if I should go with something else.I currently have an apex'i safcII, datalogger and gm maft that works with fic 650's,walbro 255, aeromotive fpr with 6-an lines.Will everything work good together or...
I just want a few opinions of what I should do. I was going to buy a decent electronic boost controller, $350 range, But im wondering if I should just sell my apex'i safc II
and get the emange/PRofec E-01 since it does everything. sound like a good idea?, It is capable of fuel tuning isnt it?
Well I am on my 3rd one now in as many years, When I was 17 I drove this one for 9 months before writing it off in a head on.:notgood:Then my second one about 8 months later, modified it to stage 2 (dsmtuners) and due to poor tuning I guess I recieved some nice detonation.:notgood...
I actually have a new car as this cars engine blew due to detonation, or bad tunning, which is why I am asking about the maf rotation, So did I have it the wrong way which cased it to run bad?
this is how it is setup on my caras you can see, unlike the pic in the 3 post, my plug is facing upwards and facing right by my CAS. (the red bov line passes right ontop of it)
I was just wonding if the rotaional positioning of the GMmaf matters atall,I always see that people have it with the plug side toward the battery, where as I had it facing towards the valve cover and my car did run sorta bad, could it be from its positioning?thx
the fuel line connects to the fuel pump outlet. the fuel pump outlet is a male and it screws right onto the red/blue female fitting. (same way it would connect to the fuel rail.
Its ok to use my centerforce dual friction off my FWD and put it on my AWD right?.all i need is one yes or no comferming answer. I knows its adumb question, I just either need a 3 letter answer or a 2 letter.thx
Im wondering which car here would have better top end and end up pulling away. My car is not going to be driven till next spring so I have no way of knowing with this new set-up.vital stats:My car 90 AWD
evoIII
rebuilt head ported polished
Balanceshafts removed
Removed a/c
3"...
I searched but couldnt find a related post to my problem.I had my engine rebuild 6 months ago and it ran perfect up untill I added a gm maf and 650 injectors.I had it tunned on the dyno and when driving there is no problem with the car, only when it idles its either idling to high, or...
its just a kit thats lets you convert from sealed beam headlights and lets you splice on the adapters so that it will exept an H4 style bulb. the bulb is H4 xenon
So acouple weeks ago I went and finnaly got my car tunned on the dyno. My initial @ 11 psi was 176 whp/186 wtq and after about 7-8 runs I neted a final result of 244 whp/261wtq @ 17 psi on 94 octThis was on the stock ic, fairly heatsoaked aswell as my homedepot mbc was dropping off abit. My...
http://dsmtuner.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/all of stage one and two and then some. if you want it to be reliable you will have to do some internal work. apr fasteners, headgasket etc etc.
well what i ment was, you obviously have some money to spend on your car, looks nice BTW. why not just dpend the 300$ orso and get the gm maf. you definatly wouldnt be dissapointed
when i made my new intake tube i just took that line and let it hang off, so that the fumes dont get released by the firewall and get sucked into the cab
When your around the 300 crank hp range a upgraded manifold can easily add about 10-15 hp, I noticed the difference going from a stock 1g, to a ported slowboy.Even unported the slowboy is larger then the evo3 for not much more $. spool increased by maybe 200-300rpm
here is apic of how i upgraded my fuel systemconsists of
walbro 255
aeromototive fpr
edelbrock fuel filter
6-an feed/partial return
fic 650'sworking vg sofar
personally I wouldnt even bother. for the time/money todo that just get a good condition 14b and it will be a much larger improvment then the t25 could ever reach.