it depends, if your already doing the t-belt/water pump, changing the headgasket is fairly easy.

t-belt change usually go for around 450-550 at dealerships as far as I know. Water pump can cost 100 bucks for an OEM one.. installation shouldn't be more then 50 bucks for it??Headgaskets can go from 70-100 bucks, labor maybe another 100-200i would say 1100 is a little much - i'd figure...

i have a 97 new front bumper unpainted - pm me for more info - i don't want to get banned for posting this (not sure if its wrong since i'm not making a thread on it??)

i'm selling my 2g GSX for a 1G GSX.. don't ask whyI personally am sick of dumping money into them. My 2G GSX needs a motor and a few other things - so i'm parting it out. I think i'll have more fun with the 1G GSX although i'll miss the looks of the 2G.Oh well - my 1G is gonna hit low...

I have around 1500 to spend on a new computer. My goal for the computer is internet, word processing/spreadsheets, music, watching movies, connecting my video camera to the computer to download video and make my own movies, play mp3's from the computer into my home stereo, gaming, email, and...

that is not the only thing i've said the whole time, i provided examples and other relations to justify my statements. Your first post was simply "AEM IS JUNK" - you provided no examples in that statement, nor did you explain why. Just because its a reputatable tuner shop does NOT mean they...

i do have experience with it, i'd be glad to help, send me a plane ticket and 800 dollars a day to tune it.Are they using an aftermarket ignition system (HKS, MSD), etc.. maybe that has something to do with the car not firing correctly. You say the fuel pumps don't turn on... how is it...

But remember another thing, the companies I mentioned are multi-million/multi-billion dollar corporations who have millions of dollars to invest and at worst, take a few million dollar loss.AEM is a needle in a hay stack compared to Mitsubishi or Dell. Not saying AEM can't make a great...

And there are more then enough facts to support AEM is a proven system. Very few people know how to operate it. It isn't intended for everyone. It also isn't intended to be tuned by just anyone.You've seen maybe 2-3 occasions of fault in the system. Did you know DELL has a bad batch of...

that's why AEM makes it clear to have it professionaly installed. Do you know how to operate a nuclear warhead? No, but i'm sure the nuclear engineers do. :rolleyes:

its a race-type intake manifold so therefore you don't use your stock sensors (MAP) I believe.You also don't need all the vacumn lines... Installation is fairly simple.I would mount the coil pack near your strut tower or use a coil-on-plug setup

plenty of other reasons for user error, then what you described. It isn't "Plug n' Play" as much as AEM makes it out to be either. I've seen numerous cars run AEM w/o any problems. I've seen cars where hp levels increased and made the car run better, such a difference, it was like night and day...

if you don't have time to search, then how will you have time to do the 6bolt swap? Not being a pr*ck, but the time it took you to post, you could've had 10,000 listings of the same question answered by searching.Anyways, i saved you some time :rolleyes:magnusmotorsports.com...

How can you say AEM EMS is junk? Its one of the best and lowest priced full engine management systems that is widely used.

well what's your setup

its vtec not vtech :thumb:

since i didn't have a cherry picker, i raised my car on all corners almost 2 feet in the air and lowered my engine/trans using my 2 1/2 ton jack and a nice piece of wood.. once the jack was lowered fully, i had two people lift the engine and trans using a chain, and i pulled the jack out, then...

ok, wasn't sure where to mount it..

does the FP Gauge get installed before or after the fuel rail. I thought you tee'd off the vacumn hose from the FPR to the FP solenoid on the car.. the blue dotted vacumn line

I'm looking to downsize from a 17" to a 16" mainly because I like the Rota Attacks.I don't think my 2piston calipers would allow me to do this.. could i use the single piston from a gs-t or would it not bolt up right?Thanks!

That's why when I get pulled over, if I do, I make it very comfortable for them. If after all that, they start to profile me or give me a ticket for something I don't agree on, I have them call their supervisor over and I will become more verbal with them, but remain respectful,.

I'm probably going to run a nitrous setup, but i'm not going to be driving around with the bottle unless i'm going straight for the track in which i will carry a pass saying what event i'm going to incase i get pulled over for something. If I do run a fuel cell, as much as I would like it in...

only reason why I ask is because I might get stereotyped as a young adult. I see to many rice cars and shit getting pulled over. I on the other hand, like to have my car looking "tuned" but obey laws on the street. I don't street race either. The thing is, i'm building my car and a lot of it is...

i think a 3" exhaust system is enough.. people run quick times with just that.

I hope its not going to be too tight..

Are any of these mods illegal to drive on the street with? (Meaning having to worry about cops)Aftermarket seats w/ 4pt harness Fuel Cell instead of stock fuel tank

mine are gapped at .018 or .019.. can't remember..

i currently have my wires exposed

i'm doing a coil on plug setup from SBR :)each plug gets its own coil, more power, and no need to buy wires, and new coil pack :)engine bay looks cleaner and less chance of wires interfering with t-belt

just pull off the stock unit and replace it with your own gauge if its mechanical..i think the electrical can use the stock sensor. WRONG.

join the club, i just started the new motor and had that plug come out.. i'm definitely using jb weld on everything now and have to spend more money on a new timing belt..ugh!

or run a dual oil filter setup like i am :)jk!

anyone know what size metric you need? 12 x 1.5 14 x 1.5 16 x 1.5?

i usually turn it counterclockwise if the timing belt is not on or if i'm putting it on and passed the mark.

wow if its bad, then i must've screwed my engine up.. i turned my motor counterclockwise dozens of times - either for timing belt or just to keep the engine rotating when not in use for a couple of weeks.

i change clutch fluid everytime i change the clutch or any of the clutch cylinders...every clutch job i do, i get a new flywheel, clutch, clutch fork, pivot ball, slave, and master w/ new fluid :)this way i know everything is new and shouldn't have problems...

i noticed i'm always a half tooth off.. i ran the motor and it has no problems.. the belt inbetween the two cam gears has less tension then the rest of the belt, but its still tight enough where the belt won't come off.. its the only way i can get the marks to line up properly...i start...

i drained it, it was fine actuallyi added 4 gallons of fresh, expensive, premium fuel..it starts, but damn its a mess with all that oil squirting out on the floor

it seems to be coming from the oil pumpi took off all the belts, timing cover, etc..its either the oil pump pulley that the timing belt goes around, or that little screw that spins with it slightly above to the right..it also looks like some oil coming out behind the crank sprocket...

well its running now.. very rough but it keeps going with rpms varrying from 1-2k.. it almost dies and then it picks up..i also found a nice oil leak.. oil is splashing out in the front case someplace.. the timing belt is soaked and a mist of oil is coming out from the cam gears area.. it...

not ventingi added 4 gallons of fuel.. for some reason my guel gauge reads 0 fuel yet i know i have almost a half of tanki'll see if the needle goes back up nowi tightened the intercooler hoses..i'll give it a start in a bit, i have to charge the battery now..

NEW STATUS:The motor starts, revs to 3k, then slowly falls down until it stalls..i will link a vid once i find the cable for my camera-pc..if i rev it, it'll keep runningmy fuel light came on, but i have a half a tank at least..

I meant to say not boost for the initial start up and 30 mile breakin.. after that i'll be hooking it back up for the rest of the break-in. I'm saving up for DSM Link to be able to manage my fuel/ignition.

I've actually been researching this thing for months, i have done motor swaps before, but nothing like this where I've built the motor myself.. mostly I did honda's..No one said to cap them off, they said leave them unplugged.. so i did. I will cap them off and see if it helps any...

i didn't cap anything off the t-bodyi connected the FPR to the soliniod.. (sp)the intake manifold has like 4 connections for air/vacumn lines.. i connected the rear one.. not sure what that is for.. i also have one that goes to the bov.. another goes to a vacumn line that is located...

i can't do a compression check since the engine isn't warm..the turbo is bolted up but the wastegate is open - i'm not trying to boost for the break-in..there are no vacumn lines on the t-body - egr is blocked off..all sensors are connected except for 3 wires ( one wire is a single...

well its all hooked up, it cranks, and almost runs but it won't continue to run.. i checked the spark plug wiring and its all plugged in right..don't know what else it could be

ok, i have a 6bolt swap in my 2g.. i don't have any hoses on my tb connected because i blocked off the egr for now until the car runs good.. map sensor is plugged in but not mounted on the intake manifoldi'm getting fuel and spark looks like.. the car cranks, starts and revs to 400 and...

my goal for tonight is to start it.. shut it off.. and go to sleep :)

Ok, i'm starting my 6bolt swap for the first time and I want to know where to position the CAS so it idles somewhat fine.. should i leave it in the center, or more to which direction?thanks