Can't go wrong with them as a daily, I got a 97 ex coupe 3 years ago for $1800. Things I did when I first got it was timing belt, rack and pinion boots, inner/outer tie rods and 4 tires. After that the only thing that let me down in 3 years was the battery.
Bravo Nagevdsm, looks like it will hold up for a long time. One thing I found rust hates is zink chromate, you can get it at marine/boating supply stores. I had some light rust on the bottom of my 240 and I went over it with Ospho rust neutralising acid, cleaned with brake cleaner after 48...
The only time you need to worry it is in two situations. If you are either running a rebuild that has had significant material taken off from the block and the head, or if you are running a 2.4 block which has about 1/2" taller deck height, then you have to find TDC and then use a degree wheel...
I sold mine in 2009,it got passed around among friends and last I seen it was 2012. Now I been playing with an s14 240sx that I swapped in an rb26dett with small hks upgraded twins ( what a pain in the ass),but hot digitty does this thing have some torque.
I guess I been out the game too long.....I always thought when it first came out the ECMLink thing was a waste of money when ya can just get DSMLink.........oh check that knock sensor by the way(feel under the intake manifold on the backside of the block,if ya feel gooey stuff it took a...
When I was at piper aircraft and they used to make their own windshields they had to pin them down to the mold before they stuck the acrylic in the oven,reason why was because the material would shrink and curl under heat.....so I would say try it but ya might run a risk of it maybe deforming...
Don't do that!.....I once had a small crack in my MP3 players screen and they wouldn't cover it on the warranty that I had purchased separately for it because it was from "abuse".I dont buy anymore of their bull shit warranty's cause they always have a way to get out of covering it.
About a year ago here at moroso I seen an electric powered nissan 240sx s13 running high 11's.Guy said the car dynoed at 400hp and a little over 800lbs of torqueOMG
No load on the engine....sr20det's are very known to shatter rocker arms when they are revved very high without a load on the engine,i.e....missing a gear.
Try a bottle of redline water wetter mixed with straight distilled water,not tap because it can leave behind white calcium deposits....straight water cools better than anything and even way better than 50/50 antifreeze but it boils at 110 degrees,a small bottle of redline water wetter raises it...
good rely defiant(joking)...get your baby on the road,Im sure ya miss driving her,even if its on the t-25...break that motor in(make sure its at the proper A/F so ya don't wash out those rings and they don't seat).
Go to sears...get a set of metric Gear Wrench short wrenches......get a snap-on 1/4 inch drive and a snap-on 3/8 drive ratchet that has the bendable heads....get anything else and never look back.
ForcedPerformance green for the win...I remember everyone on the talon digest telling him he was nuts for stepping up over a 20G for that(well the fastest dsm's were running 10's on 20G's at the time too)
Try that with an o2 mounted external wastegate that pokes way out from your power steering pump.I had to remove my rad,fans and including drain the cooling system(thank god I didn't loose any redline water wetter)and drive to publix for extra distilled water.
Same thing happened to me when I did rotors on my 1G FWD I used to have....took like 4 hours with me and my roommate taking turns with a sledge hammer taking knocks on the back of them freaking rotors to get them loose....not to mention tons of PB blaster.:cry:Put antisieze onto the backs...
Same thing happened to me when I did rotors on my 1G FWD I used to have....took like 4 hours with me and my roommate taking turns with a sledge hammer taking knocks on the back of them freaking rotors to get them loose....not to mention tons of PB blaster.Put antisieze onto the backs of the...
I have to agree....after hearing different exhaust's including magnaflows,n1's,greddy's.....I have to say thermal R&D is the best sounding mufflers/exhaust system I have heard on a DSM.
Hell I would say jump on it....Keystone(an aftermarket manufacturer of body panels)makes the bumper for it for like a little over $100....the pipe......just upgrade it to a dave brode upper IC pipe and use a 1G blowoff valve.
I have to say ya got big balls....well very big to run that combination,I guess your going to push the E85 to the limits......I cant wait to see the results.....I remember I was told I had big balls to run a 20G quite a few years ago although lol....good luck,but Im sure you have the tuning...
Scott Grey went 177 MPH with a frankenstein stage 2 turbo...95 piston big rod motor....2g mass air and a 5 knob AFC back in 2000.link to videoshttp://www.dsmporn.com/movies/blak94gsx/el_mirage_9-2001/
R.I.P He will be very missed.....so sad to see a loss such as him and the shop has been a well known name in the DSM world since the beginning of tuning DSM's.This is a day that makes me down like when we lost Jeff Carpenter back in 2000 who was the owner of Forced Performance.
Wahoo...dont mean to hijack but I sure do miss my 87 dodge raider 2 door,gloss black,limo tinted windows and the chrome wheel package from dodge too...thing was a torque monster with the 2.6 G54B non turbo.
You shouldnt need the bigger injectors for up to 7 lbs of boost....the 12:1 FMU will provide all the fuel ya should need....with out some sort of other fuel controller like an AFC or an ECU tune there is no way to compensate for the larger injectors compared to the stock injector maps in the...
also you should try the cumbustion chamber cleaning process with mopar comustion chamber cleaner or seafoam cleaner.http://www.outreach.psu.edu/users/res122/DSM/
http://www.neons.org/howtos/MoparCleaner.shtml
also check to make sure the flex section hasnt torn and got a hole in it.....I had that happen with my non turbo once....damn thing sounded like a motorcycle lol
I think you dont have the wastegate line hooked up to your actuator maybe there...get a manuel boost controller on there(thats if you have one)and back the screw out all of the way(not until it falls out of course) to get it down to 9-10 lbs of boost.....it looks to be your valve cover gasket...
90TTalonAWD has ya on the right path already there......reason he is saying to use a turbo block is that there is no oil squirters that squirt the bottoms of the pistons and I dont think(If I remember right)there isnt a tapped hole either for the knock sensor in the back on NON turbo...
Check out TopLine brand for a rering kit if its needed.....since your motor isnt knocking then your shouldnt worry about having any work done to the crank.....but first do a compression test....if the compression is low drop like a half ounce of oil in the cylinder,if the compression goes up...