Cool, good pictures thanks for posting them.

Here's a crappy cell phone video of it's first pass down the track RWD. Only ran WG boost of 15lbs to make sure it went straight and went 6.40@108

As for the issues with the AWD setup the most common breakages were transmission gears and transfer cases. The chassis did work very well AWD with the solid rear end, it would go consistent low 1.2x 60'. The main reason I switched to RWD is to get more reliability. The cost was less to do it...

Thanks, the weight is around 2200 with out driver and the balance was not great when I scaled it so i will likely have to shift some things around.

Engine bay all put together and back on the ground:

4 inch aluminum exhaust and A2W intercooler.

changed up the interior to remove the factory dash and put in a fiberglass dash, also stood the nitrous bottle up vertically to make room for the intercooler tank.Also changed the stock wheel out for a grant with the quick release hub and added a 7 inch windows tablet as a replacement for...

Thanks, it seemed that the main week points before were gears in the transmission breaking.

Here's a few shots of the motor set in with the JMFab RWD intake manifold and the updated dry direct port NX system.

I know, I think I'm on borrowed time running the V1 AEM but its hard to justify changing it out until it fails.

thanks for the comments, the main reason I decided to go RWD is I want to go faster with more reliability out of the drive train. I think with the new setup it should be able to run low 5.0 / 4.9's with less power and nitrous than I was running AWD.

Thanks, the front mount turbo main benefits is that it has direct inlet air from the front of the car and helps move some weight to the nose of the car. I built the header out of 304 stainless ( 1.5" schedule 10) from the v-band up is 3" stainless and the turbo is mounted to the chassis. The...

I started with the factory wiring harness and basically cut the plug connection for the ECU side off and started fresh from there.

Here's a few shots of the aluminum oil pan i built :The new exhaust manifold:

Custom A-arms i built to use a mustang spindle and ball joint:FR pinto manual steering Rack:New wheels, front coil-overs and strange engineering brakes:

I Just finished up the transformation from AWD to RWD about a month ago and though I would share some build picture. The previous setup was backhalfed solid rear axle with an auto trans, 2.0L, PTE76 , the car was running mid 5.30 @130-33.Car before the conversion:Frame rail added...

ER70-s2 i believe.

I would check the wiring connector at the speed sensor.

you should be fine on 7 plug with gap somewhere under .28.

you might try checking all connectors for the coils / tps and other sensors disconnected while changing the cams to make sure its not a loose connection.

I had a similar problem with my 2g it ended up being the peddle getting hung up on the carpet / insulation.

Like 97 eclenger suggested I would check the thermostat.

no comparison. 4g63

Here are a few warmup welds on some 4130 before starting on my new k member.

Finished manifold compared to old setup.

some welding pictures from my last faward facing manifold.

here is how i did mine.

you could use foam pipe insulation to fill gap on the existing rubber boot.

http://kiggly-racing.com/auto_shifter_wiringcheck this page, there is some great information on here about auto trans wiring.

AEM EMS uses calibration files as tuning maps and parameter setup. It sound like if the car starts and drives it may just need tuned.

Megan offers a similarly price coilover that work great and are offered by reputable vendors if your worried about getting ripped off.http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=23768&cat=1405&page=1

You can try porting the WG opening to allow more exhaust gas to bypass the turbine.

No the 1g and 2g auto transfer cases have a different gear ratio, I made the mastake of running a 1g case in my 2g for a few thousand miles and it ended up breaking the gears in the center diff.

Ya fortunately the shaft held up and is fixable thanks to dogbox. Here is a video of the last race I went to before breaking the trans then the t-case.OVOS Race - YouTube

Not sure yet. I will be tearing it apart this weekend.

I just got back form the 10.5 race we attended last night, I ran a couple of 5.40's with a 1.26 and 1.24 60' in qualifying with crappy track conditions and in the second round of eliminations I went a new best of a 1.20 60'. Unfortunately the trans let go at the top of second gear and ended...

I would agree I don’t think you will find a chassis shop that offers better quality and workmanship.

I still use the driveshaft shop front piece and just had a new u-joint end put on the factory back piece. In all I came out around 100 pounds lighter than it was with IRS. As for tires i run M&H's

The irs is gone and has been replaced with an 8.8

I've got a brand new one sitting in the garage waiting for our spare transmission to get back from IPT before it goes in.

No it is the same amount that we use on the other cars, I believe it is because of the small T4 .96 and the fast spooling 67.

No, just a stock restall. Its actually a bit tight with a max stall speed at like 4100.

Thanks for the comments, to answer some questions yes the car has and 8.50 cert cage in it, and I took my stock appearing turbo 2G to the shootout this year is why it wasn't there. I am running another 10.5 race this weekend hopefully I can net a faster 60’, I would like to see it go in the...

I figured I would share this with the DSM community since I plan to RWD the car this winter. The car has been around for several years mainly as a street / grudge raced car and as it comes close to the end of the racing season I have been running a few local True Street 10.5 events. These are...