I used to work at the pep boys in elmont, i'm in flushing ny.BUN

Have you tested the gauge or the sending unit for the gauge? Does it actually over heat as in you can see smoke? Have you pressure tested the system?

Does your boost gauge read the vacuum and stop before it reaches boost. Or does the gauge not work at all?BUN

Can you force it while it grinds or does it just straight grind? Like a flint said it's probably a bent or broken fork if you can confirm that the clutch hydralic circuit is ok.BUN

Hey guys, I'm currently installing a pte 61 into the talon. All is goin well ecxept for one major problem. The SS drain line that i have won't clear the front motor mount. It sits right smack ontop of it and it kinks and it won't allow me to pull it towards the oil pan. Anyone else have this...

I don't know if my car will be up but I'll come with my lexus like a bastard child, anyone going from nyc wanna meet up and drive together?BUN

Yeah, on the norm, you have to be under load to build boost, much less with a 50 trim. As for the popping, are all your intake and exhaust components bolted on tight? Are you running rich?BUN

I don't remember where I got my bearing from, but my spring came from a pen. The home mad MBC works just as good as any retail one though. Mine was able to hold fine even above 30 PSI.BUN

What don't you pull all the lines off the radiator, pump water through the upper radiator hose hole and see if water comes out the tranny fluid fittings?BUN

Just do a leakdown test. It will tell you everything you need to know without having to play too many guessing games.BUN

I relocated mine to the driver's side of the bumper, though the car I pulled the FMIC off of had the 90 oil cooler in the stock location and it didn't get in the way of anything, though like 90awd says the PS gets in the way though, my FMIC sticks out on the left side a little bit because the PS...

There is no belt that goes around both the alternator and PS pump. You're most likely missing the alternator belt. That belt runs the waterpump, and the water pump pulley runs the PS pump, so without the alternator belt you would be exhibiting these symptoms. I flung one on the highway and the...

I was stationed in korea for a year and saw a bunch of 2gs. Those were imported from japan after japan imported them from america, but they only come in fwd trim.BUN

If you have tapped it to the bottom most hole then it's right. But regardless if you tap it into the wrong outlet you will still get oil, just unfiltered oil. So tapping into the wrong spot will not result in no oil flow.BUN

As everyone else has shown you, you need a leak down test to test for internal things. The boost leak test will only test things up to your TB.BUN

If you remove the bumper support you will have to jimmy rig something to support the bumper cover, I would advice just cutting the support to fit the FMIC.BUN

Why don't you take one out and see if it works? By the way I think this belongs in the appearance section.BUN

Do you have a welder friend? You can have him weld a nut or something onto the head of the bolt and turn it from there, that's how I got a stripped off bellhousing bolt.BUN

Just from my experience I wouldnt' worry about slow shipping from DSMmotorsports, I always get my stuff within the most 3 days. Are you feeding the turbo from the head or the filter housing? If it's the head there is a possibility that the threads on the head themselves might be stripped.BUN

Hayes is so simple, as long as you have some mechanical common sense it'll guide you right through any job.BUN

Yes you can take out just the transimssion with the car on jackstands. I would suggest you to resurface the flywheel (or replace it with a lightened one) and the TOB. wouldn't hurt to replace the clutch line with a braided piece either.BUN

I found a compressor for 10 bucks and I found this compressor for like 35 bucks http://www.autobarn.net/lis16750.html I have only ever removed the rockers and cams, but a word of advice do not take the cam retaining bolts all the way out loosen them all a fair amount then after they are all lose...

Do you own a Haynes manual? That book has everything, even a section of piecing your motor back together.BUN

I have a fidanza in my car, been sitting in there for about 2 years now and have had no issues with it. I take it to the drag strip on occasional and don't really notice any ill side effects from either daily driving or drag racing. It does seem to help me maintain rpms at launch though.BUN

Smoke could also be turbo seals too, check your hot side ic pipes for pooled oil.BUN

Nope, apparently you don't have to remove the turbo, I've never tried to do it without removing the turbo, but this link should help you out.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61917BUN

Yep, awesome piece of equipment, too much freakin wire though! I have so much wire left over after I installed it I don't know where to tuck the freakin stuff, might cut them and solder them shorter.

The first thing you linked to seems to be an aem ems part, the last thing absolute dsm linked you to is what you need.BUN

http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html That is the site to build one yourself, yes it works I have done it. Is that turbosmart MBC? I used to own one and had sort of the same problem. If i remember correctly there is a line on the MBC that points to the direction to rotate to make it...

Yep, it's fixed, thanx

Here's a really old one I did

Honestly how long does it take the car itself to warm up? Or does it even ever get to proper operating temp? If it doesn't then like tranman says your t-stat is sticking, and with a t-stat sticking open and not allowing the engine to warm up your heat will not function properly, I had the same...

Try resetting the throttle positions and see if that changes anything, because it shouldn't read 100% until it's WOT. Go to the inital set up and set the low throttle without pressing the throttle, then set the high throttle with your foot all the way to the floor. On an opposite note mine reads...

I had the same problem last week, there was so much smoke I couldn't back up because I couldn't see. I can guarantee you that it's the turbo seals, there's really only two ways to get oil into the IC pipes, blow by, or bad seals.BUN

I have an EBC but I only own it because it came off a car I previously bought from someone, it holds boost just fine IMO. Of course I'm running very low boost. But after having both MBC and EBC I do not see the need to spend close to 200-300 dollars on an EBC when an MBC can be had at around 30...

Yes there are other ones, one's called like mad dog or something to that effect but I also couldn't find it, weird they have a web site and everything. But Gary at the graveyard is like literally 15 minutes from your house so i would really suggest trying him first, very helpful and nice guy...

Yep, if you're going to install an AF gauge install it right the first time, if you can't afford a wideband then don't waste money on a narrowband, it's really not going to tell you anything useful beyond what a datalogger can tell you.BUN

about 950 dollars for a rebuild http://www.sheptrans.com/details.php?sid=5 but that's pretty much just a stock rebuild. But from what you said it doesn't sound like a bad deal, I would do it.BUN

Just as a word of caution I don't think it's a good idea to have it running to a power source that is always putting out power even when the key is out. You may just forget to turn off the fan in a rush and come back to a dead battery. I wired my fan into the cigerette lighter that way I don't...

Good point 2liter, spray the lower part of the shock where it slides into the sub-frame. I had to actually cut mine off with a grinder on one side, the other side just popped out, depends on how your luck goes.BUN

No you don't have to get rid of the PS cooler, I have a dejon FMIC and retained both AC and PS cool, it is a PITA though.BUN

You need to compress the spring compressor http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43753 like this one and I've always used an impact to get the nut off the top of the spindle. Other then that it's not anything too difficult.BUN

The thin little wire does cause voltage drop. I never actually measured the voltage but the before and after effects are definitely felt, for me most noticably at idle.BUN

Oh, I tried doing it this way too, I don't know if you have a problem with it, but the throttle cable would stick on me this way because of the play and I would have a throttle delay too. But if that works for you who am I to argue with you, always more then one way to skin a cat.BUN

You can remove it without buying other cables I did. All you do is remove the second cable (the one attached to the trottle body) Take it off the car. Take the bracket that is attached to the cable, the one that attaches it to the intake manifold chisel it out do not brake it you will need this...

It happens more often then you'd believe, Mitsubishi's are notorious for this, This happened in one of my other DSMs and my friends 3000gt.BUN

Hope the pic shows up, but I've got two gauges on the A-pillar, AFC Neo mounted behind my interior cabin lights and greddy EBC mounted under the radio.BUN

IMO it's more trouble then it's worth, and I'm speaking from experience. I did get the motor out without the tranny, but I damn near had to unbolt the whole tranny from everything so I might as well just have pulled the whole pack. But there is also the need to worry about damaging the...

Yes you can pop the lines off, just put a little filter on the line, or use a catch can.BUN

Do you still have all the stock emissions lines hooked up to you're intake? If so it's probably just blow by, if not it could be turbo seals, although the oil is usually found on the side going to the IC though.BUN