http://www.plymouthlaser.com/atfaqs.htmThe link above is all of the trans model#s. The #s don't match, so I'll assume that it will not work, but I could be wrong.
Nope...stock boost, no boost control. I didn't install a boost control until I did a boost gauge and full hard I/C pipes.
I forgot to mention earlier that I got so excited that I made 13 consecutive passes at Island Dragway. Needless to say my trans went downhill from there. <~~~~inexperienced
I "was" running these cams ;)
I've tried so many different part combinations already, trying to see what worked for me, what I liked, didn't like, etc.. I had the 272s along with solid motor mounts, stiff suspension, old 1G Throttle body and the worst part..FWD. The bottom line is how...
My first time at the track, with only an Injen intake was 15.9@87mph with a 2.3 60' (FWD)
I went back the next week with a 2.5" turbo-back exhaust and hard UICP with a 1G BOV and ran a 14.9@94mph with a 2.2 60'.
The A/Ts definitely take more to go faster.
I had HKS 272/272 in my 98 A/T. The car's idle was rough and a bit difficult to control. I didn't really notice too much low-end difference, but I never got the chance to install any larger of a turbo than a B16g. The top-end gains were significant. I also had a 4000 high-stall converter, so I...
I went from my typical 2.4 60' to a 2.2 60' changinge nothing else but the trans with a LSD insert.
John from IPT installed everything for me. I used a Phantom Grip insert with the slightly stiffer green spring and John tried shimming it as tight as we could get it...
The easiest way to tell...
I ran a 14.2@102 with a B16g@18psi, wally 190, stock injectors, stock trans, intake, full 2.5" turbo-back, MBC, & S-AFC.
I went back to the track after I had my race head, 272 cams, external wastegate, DSMLink, & IPT trans to not make one full pass. Shortly after my fiance overheated the car...
Do not netural slam it at all...that is one of the worst things for your trans...
To take full advantage of your setup, you need to get a restalled torque converter, althought it shouldn't as bad as you're saying with a B16g....
Sounds like your clutches are just totally burned up.
You also should just check that all the shifter linkages are intact and aligned, but I doubt that's the cause.
Who knows....but that's his business..
Since you brought this thread back from the dead, I'll add that I now have a 95 A/T AWD that will be a purposely built drag car....probably not to Russ' extent though...
Let's see what he does this year...
Of course a transmission rebild is going to cost you more than a 1k. I doubt the left turn had anything to do with the trans going wacky, I'd call it pure coincidence.
There is no way to tell what the hell happened in your car, other than the clutches are slipping up. When you day it won't go...
Just keep a close eye on the car and constantly check/smell the transmission fluid.
Even though you accidentally drained it, if you really only did drive it for five minutes around the block, there still should've been enough fluid left to allow the clutches to still slide and not just clash...
Aren't a lot of those things covered in the VFAQ and 1000 already answered questions?
I learned alot from those sites, as well as just browsing various message boards..
Doesn't anybody search anymore? :rolleyes:Here's the basic VFAQ turbo comparison...I'm not sure about the part number though.. and as far as looks go, it will have a larger compressor housing...20gB16g
No it isn't.... :cool: Not in a 98 GSX....
And I didn't think of the PS lines, because I switched to a smaller cooler with braided lines, and don't run a FMIC...
You could have just totally moved the stock unit, or remove all the stock trans cooling and go with an aftermarket unit with flex tubing and mount it where the stock IC was..
They are new units used to adjust the "feel" of the car. i.e. when John installed my converter, he said the shifts would feel a little wimpy because of the looser converter, so these selonoid kits modify that...
The install can be difficult, and there's more than just little balls and springs... ;)
You should do both the end clutch and shift kit at the same time, it'll only help in the long run...
Congrats on the setup...you'll never look back, I know I didn't...
And this is probably one of the only times that I'll say that this trans work is an investment on the car...in the long run, you'll break other crap before this..
It's nice to have one less thing to worry about providing you...
I've never heard of an actual %, just numbers thrown around....
I guess the only way to get a true rough idea, and even then it's tough, but is to have two identical dsms (if that's possible) and have then dynoed.....
Does it really matter that much why we are a little slower? :cool: It's...
That DNP is set up for an external wastegate rerouted. It sounds like this guy is talking about an internal dumped to the 02. IMHO, I think they sound like shit as well. An external wastegate sounds good, but is $$ and not always necessary.
If I were you buy a Thrush muffler and weld it on...
The stock stall speed should be around 2500-2800, although some can go higher. But, realize you're loading up all that power on the front clutch pack, which equals burning and slipping after a while.....especially on a stock trans.
And all the year TCs are setup basically the same...
I'm going to make a very simple analogy....getting away from all the "techni-babble"...Go for a run on the beach along the water (MT)
Now go for a run on the beach in the water (AT)
Which time will be faster and why.... The idea is that our TC is drowned in fluid, so what is faster and...
I personally think you are much better off putting that 50 trim back in. If you're not after serious power and only want a decently fast car, why would you need a 60-1.
We can't truly answer your question about psi, but I can tell you I wouldn't push it too much if not at all...
1.21 Jigawatts is safe...
Just kidding...seriously though, I think you need to re-evaluate why you have that turbo. If you were able to tune properly you could take that turbo pretty far on stock internals.
Oh, just out of curiousoty, how are you tuning those 720s with only an AFC? No wonder...
IMHO, the 1G NT throttle body has a slight advantage over the 1G turbo and certainly 2G turbo T-body.
Instead of having bolts holes where a flange meets up, it has a sleeve, which will allow you to run a silicone elbow and one less gasket to worry about.
A few DSMLink guys started using this...
Hey man, it's a start somewhere and more of an answer than anyone else seemed to give...
You'd be surprised the weird shit A/Ts do with the most stupid and simple errors. I thought a had a blown trans, and it was all because of a TPS adjustment...
Right now your trans sounds like it's in limp...
Check for the basic boost leaks, exhaust leaks, electrical connections, and TPS adjustments first...then look into a trans problem..
You need to see what number is stamped on the trans you have as well to make sure it's 100% what you think it is.
If you're going to be doing some small trans mods (i.e. shift kit etc.) and plan on a larger turbo (of course you are ;) ) then I would just bite the bullet and get a restalled TC for now as well...
That is an image before it is coated. I know several people running them and they seem like nice pieces and at a very fair price...I already had a SBR 02 housing when these came out, otherwise I probably would've just bought one myself...
I agree that they are junk. I installed it, let the car idle, then just sold it the next day and this was after waiting umm..8 weeks.
Just call them and tell them flat out, send me a new one ASAP or return my money and I'll return the product...
1.21 jigawatz!!
Just kidding...Agreed with L2R, you have no idea what's going on inside, so 15 psi would be safe, but even so, a few track runs will tell you what? How fast you are, but you won't know where to go from there..
Yeah, it's called a little grease and some strength. It will fit fine, but I think SBR sells 3.25 to 2.25 reducers if you really want to waste some money.
I suggest you read these articles. It'll answer a lot of your questions.
If you want to launch at 4500, then you would need a 4500 stall, but not just "I want a 4500 stall" out of the blue.How Automatic Transmissions work....
How Torque Converters work specifically...
Cheap fix....same method I used when I installed a Type R.
Cut the pipe on each side of where the BOV flange sits. Make sure to leave enough room on each...(I left about 4"). Then get two couplers and four T-bolt clamps. You can now rotate that section of the pipe and clear the hood no...
FP makes some really sweet 02 housings. I bought a full 3" V-band housing from them, but sold it when I bought a full garret setup.
It is pricey, but everyone always says you get what you pay for.