Not it isnt. That is from either a 90 or a 91-94 with a 90 shifter assembly in it.

Still no workage. Hmm......... I cant get any RPM readings at all.

Just an FYI. I compared the pinouts in the Apexi wiring diagram and the one on VFAQ and apexi labled the RPM signal wire incorrectly. It should be pin #21. Check it out on www.vfaq.com if you run into trouble and find my thread. :) This is for the 1st gen DSM. Not sure about the 2nd gen's.

Sounds like some valve bendage. Typically when you blow a headgasket it will just blow one small part of it out which will give you low pressure in one cyl. Low compression in all 4 points more towards valve damage. Good luck!

Crebotech is a very respectable site. I know Marcus Crebo personally and he is a great guy! Ive called his shop several times when im in a bind and hes always been super friendly\nice!

Get a shopvac or an air compressor (on a low PSI setting) and hook it up to the intake tube for a pressure test. You should be able to ghettofab some sort of a fitment and then you can hear where the leaking is coming from.

Did you check for play\wobble? That would be your best surefire indicator of a bad turbo.

Thats what I was thinking. Show a comparison Pic compared to say a CD or something so we can see how big it is.

Also, is there any way to test the RPM line going to the SAFC II with an ohm-meter to see if its working properly? Thanks again guys!

Sounds like a major boost leak. The possibilities are endless!

well I got the SAFC II all installed and when I was going through the initial setup process I got stuck at setting the knock. It says to rev the car to 2 certain RPM levles (1300 and 3200) and push the middle knob to the right for each interval. Well I do this and nothing happens. Also if I...

It should be on the front bumper by the fog light. I dont remember which foglight, but im thinking it was attached to the pass side fog light bracket. I'm assuming it would be the same on a GST as on a GS. Good luck!

Get a T-28!!

Could be a bad valve cover gasket.

Did you replace\inspect the tensioner? That would be my final solution! Good luck!

Just an FYI for future reference for others trouble shooting. This worked like a charm! I just put 2 rods that were equal lenghts into one outter chamber and one inner chamber through the sparkplug holes. I then moved the crank sprocket so that the middle rod moved up and the outter rod moved...

I'm getting the same problems. I tripple checked the timing, I checked for spark, i checked for gas, i checked all electrical plugs, i checked all vaaccuume hoses, and I can find nothing. Did you put a 6-bolt in it im assuming? If so, check the temerature sensor plug. I'm not sure about on...

Did he replace the timing belt tensioner? Sometimes if that goes out it will cause the belt to make a noise that sounds almost like valvetrain noises. If you take the top timing belt cover off and pull the 10MM bolt that is right between the cam gears out of the bottom cover you should be able...

I would also check the timing. Sounds almost like the timing is off a bit.

Also, check for oil deposits inside the housing. If theres lots of oil in there, thats another indicator that the turbo is bad (bad seals.) But like defiant said, DONT drive it until you find out whats wrong. Another thing to check would be your starter. Mine made a screeching\squeeling...

How did you install the new belt? You should have started at the exhaust cam, lined the marks up, put it over the intake cam, clipped those down, then fed it loosely around the idler pulley, pulled it tight and wrapped it around the oil pump sprocket, then tightly around the crank sprocket, and...

Yeah, it will always do that. I'm assuming that you mean the stereo stays on, not the car right? If the car does, kick ass, you got yourself a cheap turbo timer. :D

HAHAHA! I leaking Dash! Only in a DSM!!BTW- I would imagine that you would want to push the gunk from the inside to out. If you start feeding the weedwacker line (or whatever you use) from the outside in, chances are whatever gunk you push out is gonna gunk it up again in a short amount...

Yes, by 180 degrees from TDC I meant the dowels are down. :DSo basically if I have the outter pistons at TDC and the inner pistons not at TDC, I can move the cam gears to TDC with minimum valve\piston contact, and then all of my valves will be closed so I can then move the crank\oil pump to...

You should be able to take the relays out and take a look at them. I've never had a bad realy, but I would assume there would be some sort of visible sign (corrosion, melting, hot spot etc.) It also could just be a simple short somewhere.

Thanks for the quick reply Buck! I'm a small amount confused though. Basically what I'm trying to do is get the pistons at TDC without the tuiming mark being correct? Then im putting the cams at 180 degees from TDC and putting the blet on?? I put the cams at exactly 180 degees from TDC and...

Did you check the relays?? Also, have somebody listen for exactly where the noise is coming from. Sounds kind of like a bad starter to me as far as the noise. The weird symptoms though, like the windshield wipers would lead me to belive that something was screwy with the relays. Good luck!

I just realized that I cant take the head off unless its at TDC to avoid bending the valves. Also, just FYI, the cams are at almost exactly 180 degrees from TDC. I thought I rememberd reading that they are all closed at this time also? TIA!

Well I just put a new head on my car and after I had everything installed I was checking everything over and realized that the t-belt tensioner seemed to be shot. So I bought a new tensioner to install. The only problem is that while I was torquing the cams to get the motor at TDC before...

Also check here for ISC info\rebuilding. www.crebotech.com

Its probably those tail lights. :PSeriously though, did you make sure that everything is nice and port matched? Do you have a FMIC? Intercooler upgrade? O2 housing upgrade? Testpipe\High flow cat? If you just slapped a bigger turbo on it without upgrading the rest of the airflow its...

A crankwalking motor makes a whooshing noise upon startup(that is a serious question)? I would guess throw out bearing also. It doesnt make a whooshing noise but more of a rattling noise. Not sure what else it could be be though. Good luck!

Also, some cars are just pooches. I guarantee if you take 5 DSMs with the same amount of milage and exact same modifications and have the same driver run them all until he had consistent times (for each car) they would probably vary by 1 second or more. Some cars are just factory freaks and...

Wow! I would almost descrive those as Chunks not piecees. Are the alignment pins still in the flywheel? That is what they look like to me is the alignment pins. However they are generally pressed in and I dont see how they could all fall out unless somebody didnt know what they were doing...

Sounds like a short maybe? My DD laser has a rock hole in the front lite and sometimes when I wash the car (not very often ha) it gets shorted and still works but blinks really fast. Ive also known every 1st gen that I have to have bad connectors for the blunker bulbs from the harness. Ive...

When My ECU went bad (one of the 4 times, haha) my little emissions sensor box thingy (the un needed box near the drivers side upper firewall under the hood clicked like a SOB when the key was turned to the ON position. check that out too. Simply unplug the electrical connectors from it and...

Man this is so true that It is going to be my new Sig. :) Thanks!

I almost forgot. Another commonly over looked boost leak is the stock side mount intercooler. Take it off and clean it out and inspect it thouroughly for leaks. They like to rust around the inlets\outlets and cause almost undetectable leaks until you take it off and physically look at it...

LOL! Check the bulbs! I've never owned a DSM with those tail lighs, but I do belive there are more than 1 bulb in the tail lights.

It sounds to me that your wastegate actuator is messed up. On my DD laser I was getting ~7 lbs of boost when I forst got the car. I wasnt too worried about it because it was my DD but it gradually got to the point where it was boosting only to 0PSI. I finally took the turbo off and it looked...

EVO III has a larger compressor wheel (18G I belive) that allows it to flow more air and maintain about the same spoolup as a reg Big 16G.

There are alot of things that can cause bad idle on a DSM. It sounds to me thought that the throttlebody is dirty. Take it off and check it out and clean it, then block off the EGR if it already hasnt been. You can find how to do all of this on either www.vfaq.com or www.plymouthlaser.com...

Did you get this figured out Robby? I would suggest switching the RX7 injectors back in just to see how she fares? I havnt gotten my new injectors installed, but you are making me nervous. :) BTW- You car is one of the cleanest 1G's I have ever seen! Absolutely Beautiful!

Yes. It looks like you (or whoever installed the timing belt) needs to take it off and realign it all. The cam gears are 180 degrees from where they are supposed to be. Look at the relation of where the spokes of the cam gears in your picture are and the spokes on the cam gear in the diagram...

I've also heard of this happening when somebody changed their own oil and doesnt realize that the old rubber seal from the filter that they took off is still on the filter housing. So when they put the new filter on the seal is overtop of the old seal that is still stuck to the filter housing...

Take the lifters out and clean them and it should fix it for a while. I would suggest doing this durring an oil change or right afterwards.

OK. I just found that Crower valvesprings are made in part by eibach. Can anybody confirm that they are powdercoated grey?

I am about to pull my head because of unknown valvetrain problems and I picked up a rebuilt head today rather than rebuild mine. However, when I inspected the new head that I picked up I noticed that the valvesprings look different. I know for a fact that the parts used in the new head are OEM...

Did all of the gauges inside of the car flash and do you hear a ticking noise from behind the radio area? If so, check the ECU. If not, i dont know what to tell ya man. Good luck!

Go with TRE! You wont be dissapointed!