T04E Compressor cover 3”Inlet / 2” Outlet.60 cold side .81 hot sideNew seals, bearings, and hardware. Balanced. Has an oil restrictor which I drilled to somewhere around .090" to 0.100"Sanded and polished up the compressor cover.$405
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Being loose and older that motor will definitely make some power and run good for a while. Loose motors always make more power. However, with the added fuel coming in and bigger cams you will start to see the rings wear down quicker. So enjoy it but keep in mind it's life is temporary.
Cute but dumb..I totally forgot I had started this thread. After hundreds of hours of design and engineering of many new features and parts the car is near completion. Unfortunately this is not the only car I have been building so time is not on my side. It does run, (very well, strong...
This week i'll post more things, customer cars come first , mine come last. :cry:Also, i'd like to mention that 4 valve heads flow just about 1.4 more air then 2 valve heads.
it's nice to see everyone has become experts. :tease:With forced induction cam events and overlap are way more important than bigger lift and duration.Also, car weight, gear ratios, tranny type, and other non-engine type factors play a big part in how you cam behaves in your engine.
File down any sharp edges on the valve reliefs, sand paper the valve relief contour back in, wire wheel the carbon of off the top of the pistons and you will be good to go.
Back to work on the car.<a href="http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/ll86/makavelidsm/?action=view¤t=IMG_0079-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll86/makavelidsm/IMG_0079-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>coil plate. it mounts on the bottom...
Ok, because I usually don't use a solid lifter to degree in DSM cams. I use the centerline method. Although it's not as in depth as checking 0.050 timing evens, it will tell you really quickly if your cam is where you want it at.Example, for intake. I'll place my dial indicator on the...
ya, most cages run in front of the dash, not only is it ugly but the damn cross bar is always at you legs. thats why i got the 8pt, when i go up to 10pt i'm going along the A pillar and into the dash.
Just trying to add some friendly sarcasm.I go on the principle that the tuning process starts, when building the engine. all those factors directly play a part in the "turning the screw driver" or "pressing the keyboard keys" process.
also one more important thing.Can you guys stop comparing tuning a car for the street with tuning a car for track.The street has soo many variables, (accel, decel, hills, traffic, heat, crusing, etc) where as on a track your running WOT, thats it.
having used all 3. DSmap, link, and AEM, i would recommend only a product you pay for. (product support, replacement items, etc. has its price for a reason).DSMlink
-is not in anyway a piggyback system, however, you do need an add-on (translator)
-it works well, is robust, and the...
tranny is apart. Previous owner had it freshened up, But i still wanted to go over it. Any recommendations to what i should do to it. (keep in mind im switching to an auto next season).
if you guys notice, i used 2 large OEM fans, not 1 OEM and 1 A/C fan. I found these guys to be reliable and strong enough to do the job. (i don't have it in the budget for Spals and i am not using anyone else's product). I also don't have a radiator yet, which is why the one fan is wire tied...
Fans are setup. One will pull and is wired on the original circuit and comes on with a thermal switch. the other fan will push and is wired to the AC circuit, it is wired to a manual switch. The second fan had to be trimmed to fit under the lighting.