I have one of these and am wondering what they are going for used? Don't know what the price point is that I should set. Will this kit fit an EVO?

A local guy is selling me a 2G Mani for $30... how can I tell its a 2G from just looking at it and its not really a 1G?Is the 2G Mani a direct bolt on to my 14b setup? If I were to port it out... would it be comparable to an unported Evo III Mani?

What is the best bang for your buck as far as a tool to do Porting? Where can I get one and what should I expect to pay?

Where is a good source for Burrs for Porting? Will these work?http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Carbide-Burrs-1-4-Shank-Double-Cut-New-U-S-208_W0QQitemZ4397195936QQcategoryZ11704QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Are these good options for relocating the battery or should I spend the extra cash and get Moroso?http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SUM%2DG1199Switch:http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG1432Or the Moroso box and their switch?

OK... I purchased the Moroso Box and the 125 Amp Kill switch. Is the only other thing I need 4 guage wire? No Terminals or nothing?

What sliders and brackets can I use? I can't seem to find brackets for the Tenzo seats to fit a 1G... I see them for the 2G though... where can I get the brackets and sliders?

Any opnions on the Short Shifters that are available? I see one from Fidanza... any feedback on options for the 1G?

WIll this work as the hub and also adds quick release to a Sparco Steering Wheel? Are all Sparco Wheels 6 screws?

I just noticed that one of my fans is dead... so I think thats whats causing the spike in Temp. Is it normal for the car to overheat if just one fan is working?

Should I go by what the AEM ECU is reading or by what the Autometer Guage is reading. They differ by about 10 degrees.

The AEM is reading 190 degrees after about 2 hours at the dyno... is that OK? Or is that a tad hot?

It got upgraded to 34mm. I am being told its because of the 3" turboback.

What are the drawbacks of going with a 44mm?

I have a huge Boost Creep issue and I have decided to go with an external WG. I am a fan of buying things once... so I am inclined to buying the 44mm Tial with the 1bar spring. A local DSM'er is telling me that he thinks a 44mm is to big for the B16G. What do you guys think... is the only...

OK... so my options are to Port the turbo more... or is it to port the O2 housing more? A local guy is selling me a Tial WG (44mm) brand new for $300. Should I go that route instea din case I decide to go with a bigger turbo down the road? If so... does someone have some pics of how to route the...

I went to a local race shop and bought 5 feet if #8 SS hose and some clamps and that was it.

I bought a ported SBR Mani and B16G (supposedly with the upgraded wastegate). I have a ported Evo III O2 housing as well. I am using the AEM EMS to control boost (also tried a Hallman MBC). My problem is that at about 5K revs the boost just jumps... I have to let off the gas as it goes up to 25...

I'm thinking I am running to "Lean" maybe??? I was running fine (temp wise) until my tuner started messing with the AEM... before I was running with the Startup Map provide by AEM... Luckilly this is not my daily driver so I won't drive it much until Sat. when the tuner is supposed to finish it...

Thats what I figured. What could it be? May it be the SBR Race FMIC not letting enough air to the Fluidyne? The wierd part is that it all happened after the prgramming. Sam ething for my Oil pressure reaching 100 at about 4K revs. Before this it would not go over 60.

My Water temp is at about 200 - 210 while cruising (not under boost 5 psi at most)... this is after programming my AEM EMS. Is that water temp normal or am I running hot? I ask because before I removed the base map (start-up map provided by AEM) the car was running at 160-170 tops under...

That would be disgusting :barf:

The motor on my Passenger side window went bye bye last week. Will a drivers side motor work or do I have to purchase the whole regulator and its exclusive for each side?

I mounted mine where the AC constrols used to be and its not noisy at all. Then again my car is fully gutted so there are already a ton of clunking sounds all over :D

Well but my concern is that if its going to be at 100 allot then the Autometer Guage sucks because it only reaches to 100.

What should my oil pressure be? I ask because last week it was between 30-60 and Today it was at about 100 until the car warmed up (I live in the Caribbean so Temps are warm anyway). Once I drove it for a while it went down to about 60.. at times 40... but would shoot up to 100 when I would rev...

I also purchased the XD-1 guage. I love it.

I installed SS Braided lines for my oil cooler and now when I turn the wheel totally to the right I feel that the front left tire is hitting the lines. Should I relocate the cooler or maybe its a matter of making the lines shorter so they dont stick out as much?ANyone have issues with this?

I bought my JIC's second hand and the guy did not have any of the tools to adjust them. Are there other tools I can use to lower the car and adjust the JIC's?Are there any recomended settings to start with? I feel that the car is two high right now...

A buddy of mine has a 2G (FWD) and his turbo just went. He is able to get a 14B (brand new for about 150-200) locally. On top of that he would need an install kit right? which is about $150?Is it worth it or is it better for him to just get another turbo thats bolt-on?Will the 14B be...

But how much weight will he really save? I think it would be negligible...

My tuner is stating that the LC-1 is crap and that I should return it because it does not read right constantly. Should I listen to him?

I purchased the Innovate LC-1

I removed my CAT and placed the probe on the downpipe near the flex section. I am keeping my stock O2 sensor just as a plug for the O2 housing... I am cutting the output conector. So my question is... where do I connect the output of the Wideband to the AEM. Do I connect it to the pin where the...

Can you give us some step by step on how you did it?

OK... I purchased the Moroso Box and the 125 Amp Kill switch. Is the only other thing I need 4 guage wire? No Terminals or nothing?

I have the same problem and my guy is telling me he has to drop the tranny and open it as one of the seals is mounted from the inside-out...He is charging me $150 for the job. Thoughts?

Do I install it after or before the flex section of the turbo back? Any specific angle? Where do I tap into so that the signal goes to the EMS? I am not plugging in the OEM O2 sensor... so do I cut the conector (where the OEM one would connect into)... and attach the LC1 cable to there? Or do I...

I'm using AEM Map (5 Bar) and AEM AT.Do you guys think its worth feeding the EGT to the AEM... I guess it would be just to play it safe if your not keeping an eye on the Autometer... but at what cost?

Are these good options for relocating the battery or should I spend the extra cash and get Moroso?http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=SUM%2DG1199Switch:http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG1432Or the Moroso box and their switch?

Wow I didn't know it was that big. I thought it was like a small one that looks like a filter.

Where do I get the catch can?

I am running an AEM EMS in Speed Density Mode. My Valve cover breather valve is missing. Should I just place a catch can on that or do I need to route it back to the intake? I thought it was only if you were running a MAf and since the MAf accounted for that air already...

The Evo VIII intercooler is not worth installing. You would basically be getting just the core... and honestly... your better off getting a full kit (i.e. SBR). I would sell the core on ebay or something and take the money for a better kit.

Well i have the OEM cooler now... Im just wondering if I should keep it or ditch it for an aftermarket one. Track temps can get high down here in the Carribbean.

The lines feeding my oil cooler are rotted. So I am going with #8 Braided lines. My question is... is it worth getting an aftermarket oil cooler? Or will the OEM one work well for road racing applications... 8-12 1.2 mile laps at a time.

Ive read the VFAQ on the rewire... but now my question is... I am relocating my battery to the trunk... so the only difference is that I will be using less 10 guage as the battery will be closer? Everything else is the same?