Here's my spun rod bearing video so DSM'ers might know what one sounds like. The 2nd video is not mine but it's 'How to test for Rod Knock using a screwdriver' which after watching it helped me find my problem real quick.How to test for Rod Knock using a screwdriver

Fortunately I was able to tell these apart afterall becasue of body touch-up paint overspray on a couple connectors.

Are there any differences between 1g turbo + N/T chassis wiring harnesses?

I do have a shop here that a few local dsm'ers recommend.But yeah I'm real nervous especially since I'd be having them put the rotating assembly together. Best I can do there is give them the specs and hopefully they'll get it right. Doubt I'd be able to check all engine tolerances and then...

How much would an engine builder charge to dissasemble + clean my stock turbo? It has no shaft play and always boosted fine but worried about possible metal shavings now.

I've read in quite a few places that wrapping in plastic is not good since it keeps moisture in and make things worse.Maybe since block will be in my dry attic rust won't be much of a problem. What about coating lightly with transmission or brake fluid? Because also seen some people saying...

^ Anybody? This is my 1st rebuild and need some help :)On subject of metal shavings from spun bearing being anywhere in motor now:I'd be using my spare cylinder head from N/T motor. Are oil squirters an issue?I'd also be using another oil pump + front case, buying new oil cooler...

I'm going to part-out my car so what's best way to store these parts long term? Bare block needs to be hot tanked + prepped before using ever again due to spun rod bearing and could put it in my attic so moisture isn't a problem. Do I spray some wd40 and cover with towels only? Should I...

Tranny is out of car now, is it better to remove slave cylinder or leave it on for changing fork + TOB?I know when you depress clutch the slave cylinder rod pushes on fork moving TOB which allows clutch disengagement. But what exactly is happening inside tranny that allows for disengagement?

Good info!Still not sure about the grease. In the video the guy said put a little on the pivot ball as well as the ?sleeve? that TOB slides onto. Are you supposed to grease the fork where it touches TOB or both sides of fork? What about side of TOB facing motor? Is a little anti-seize...

Doing 1st clutch install (with engine out of car) while doing my first rebuild too. Have a few questions (FWD):1) Is $80 Exedy clutch kit plenty good for free modding @ 15 lbs boost? I do believe I've been using a basic exedy kit for past 6 yrs with no problems (running same boost) but...

Doing a stock rebuild since I'm free/cheap modding @ 15 lbs boost and always be 20 lbs or less plus on a tight budget.Appears I might be able to get a stock used crankshaft. I don't want 2g pistons becasue worried about knock counts and maybe my 24 yr old pistons are ok. Probably get NPR...

Since oil pump has 213k mi I'm definitely thinking about replacing it. I have an oem pump from my N/T parts car with 120k mi but not sure if I should get it checked for spec and use if good or just buy brand new. Btw who's got a good price on new oem 7-bolt oil pumps? I'm seeing $360 minimum...

I spun a rod bearing and found quite a bit of metal flakes in oil pan even though bearing appears 99% intact. Oil looks clean so I'm not sure if metal flakes in pan are from car being 24 yrs old with 200k mi or from this bearing. Do the flakes in oil pan tell me everything I need to know on...

I spun a rod bearing and trying to decide whether to disassemble my stock 7-bolt motor and bring bare block, crankshaft etc to local machine shop and let them do their thing and also have them assemble it -OR-buy a short block and get it shipped. Although removing/tearing down the shortblock...

Thanks guys! Yeah I'd have to get an engine hoist + stand and try to find a good shop for machine work. Then I'd have to find someone to help check what the shop did and assemble shortbolock which would have to be wrestled up out of my basement.If I knew in advance there would be zero...

Thx! I really have to mull it over and might just part the car out. Had it for 6-1/2 yrs and was amazed how good this stock FWD ran on free/cheap mods @ 15 lbs boost and how good the handling was with just a strut tower bar and 1 size wider tire. 213k mi now on orig motor, turbo + tranny...

I spun a rod bearing on my stock 7-bolt motor and need help figuring out how much a bottom end build would cost doing it myself? First off, I've been running 15 lbs boost on free/cheap mods and plan on keeping it that way. I already have a good spare block and all parts (except crankshaft)...

Ok, thanks!

Is it possible to remove crankshaft with motor in car? What needs to be unbolted from 5-spd fwd tranny?

Found the problem! Spun rod bearing.Bearing was almost completely intact and no metal to speak of in oil but some flakes in bottom of oil pan. Crankshaft journal is very slightly scored and can only feel it a little on finger nail test but is smooth to the touch. So it's less than...

Sorry for the bump. But no one commented on these video clips and I'm stuck without a car until I can figure this out. I pulled 1 spark plug wire at a time and sound didn't change like it usually does if a rod bearing is bad. I also pulled valve cover and didn't notice anything wrong...

Edit: Sounds like a rod bearing after watching a few youtube vids. I'm going to pull 1 plug wire at a time to see if noise goes away to help confirm it. Did a compression check yesterday and it was good and got same results as before doing t-belt job 2 mths ago. All timing marks still...

If front balance shaft bearing turns out to be the whole problem should I just remove the BS belt and temporarily drive car? Or is it not that bad changing front BS bearing? Either way, if I get under there and can't find the problem guess I would have to remove BS belt just to see if...

When rev-ing engine in neutral the clattering is there and basically the same while driving.

No, don't know where the sound is coming from yet but from inside car sounds like timing belt side of motor.What concerns me is how the engine didn't seem to want to crank over at all as if something is seizing up.

I changed the tensioner using oem and everything looked good. Guess I will be taking a look at all timing marks later toady but I'm really suspecting a bearing going out somewhere or possibly transmission related? With engine idling and a mechanics stethoscope maybe I can hear where it's...

I had a little clattering noise since I changed the timing belts a couple moths ago that sounded like it could be a valve clattering, engine or balance shaft bearing going out etc. I also thought maybe 1 balance shaft wasn't lined up exactly although rear BS is definitely in phase. Anyway...

Thanks!

My fuel injector seats are kind of hard, are they pliable when new?

I just swapped in 1 fuel injector with same exact 450cc from another 1g dsm and have a few questions. I put grease on outer part only of o-ring (see #1 in pic) and wasn't sure if grease is needed on inside. I greased outside only of # 2 in pic (insulator?) and greased all sides inside + out of...

Yeah complete a/c system from '94 2.0 N/T is going into '91 AWD except for evaporator. When you say retrofit what exactly is involved?

Actually the a/c system is coming out of '94 2.0 N/T and want to use in '91 AWD.

Yes that helps but need to know if the lines, condenser, + evaporator are the same for purpose of swapping 2.0 N/T a/c system into AWD dsm.

On 1g 2.0's are there differences between AWD/FWD turbo/NT or auto/manual A/C systems? Need to know for complete system swap. Thx!

That's true because I wouldn't have to touch timing belt to fix that, right? Weather is starting to get nice so maybe I'll do that.

Car is back together already and I was just looking through pics when I noticed this.

Damn, I was just looking through pics of my own timing belt job and noticed the front balance shaft + crank marks aren't perfectly lined up. I really don't notice vibration in motor but wondering if this is bad? This balance shaft belt looks perhaps a tad off idk maybe it's just the picture ...

That's good, so when I go to junkyard I'll check under that bushing and make sure it's not all pitted up like mine is.

I also want to remove this bushing in pic and reuse it on junkyard control arm. Does it just slide right off or is there a lip there and going to make it difficult?

On FWD is it better to set toe at 0 or have slight toe-out like 1/16" each wheel? I'm going to use string method for first time after steering rack install.

Is it possible to remove ball joint from control arm without damaging ball joint while using a vice? Because I want to reuse this Moog that's only 3 yrs old and install in a junkyard control arm (assuming I find one in good shape).Can you get away with just banging on the knuckle to get ball...

You gave me a good idea of buying one from junkyard so I might go look at them and maybe I'll find an oem with no pitting on arm or other problems. Then, since my bushings + ball joints are only 3 yrs old I can go to autozone and borrow the tools to remove/install these. Is the same tool kit...

The control arm is rusting through so definitely needs replacing but 3 yrs ago I put moog ball joints on them. So if I get a new oem control arm is it worth replacing ball joint with this older moog ball joint? I like the fact of the moog being greasable but not sure if swapping the 3 yr old...

I'm looking for 1 new control arm and I found an oem but part is for Galants (MB573093). However some places do show this fitting Galants and 1g eclipse and others show they don't. Eclipse part is MB573095 and I seen a Galant thread saying they use them on their cars but the castor is 1 or...

Outer tie rods are definitely good. This was the 2nd time I disconnected tie rod from steering knuckle and tried pulling/wiggling inner tie rod to inspect for play and it seems solid. Probably just going to replace it though becasue the boot is torn and when putting my ear near joint I'm...

I hear/feel clicking in steering wheel when turning between 11 + 1 o'clock positions so I checked inner tie rod by pulling on it (after disconnecting from steering knuckle) and detect no play. So I got under car and had someone move steering wheel back and forth and hear the clicking right...

Are those for a 1g power rack because they look a little different than the ac-delco's I'm seeing. I never had to replace a steering rack before and wasn't aware of bushing upgrades or their effects but I'm interested now. So are there other options out there too? My car is free modded only...

My bushings are probably original and 23 yrs old. Is there any chance I pull them off and they're completely good or just assume they need replacing and buy them before attempting rack install?

Ok thanks, but what about those pics of rack I just bought? Inside box there's a paper that says 'if this unit doesn't come with right side bushing, reuse old one or get another one'. Problem is I don't see any bushings on this new unit.