Also remember that when discussing brake swaps like this, the subject of wheel spacers almost always comes up, as they are usually required. In my case the fit was so close that the wheel scratched the paint off the calipers. I sanded them and repainted and ended up with clearance about the...
Make them. There are dimensions in these threads:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/185350-guide-13-1-4-piston-brakes-1gs-cheap.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/184965-bargain-basement-big-brakes.html
From the math, you would have about the thickness of a penny for clearance on either side of the tire. Unless you can test fit them before purchasing or you are prepared to deal with rubbing by using spacers or aggressive fender rolling or increasing negative camber, it would be better to...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/286685-will-these-wheels-tires-fit.htmlThose wheels will fit with no problem whatsoever, but I'm thinking you might want some rubber on them. That's where things can get tricky.
245/40/18's are BIG tires, diameter wise. The would fit with fender rolling but 245/35/40 might be better. If you want to avoid fender rolling, stay with the 225/40/18's.
Lowering doesn't change any of the clearances. Changing camber after lowering does but only at the fender. With that high offset, you've got enough clearance at the fender for a __________ (fill in appropriate humorous noun).
If you had looked at this thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/frequently-answered-dsm-questions/286685-will-these-wheels-tires-fit.html you would know that there is no way you would fit 255's on those wheels. I'd say 235's are the widest you can use without complications.
You should start by estimating your correction based on the amount of suspension height change.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/handling-tech/168194-question-about-camber-toe-camber-kits.html
That should put you in the ballpark. Otherwise you should get a bubble type camber gauge. Habor...
It is generally felt that that that is not an area that requires reinforcment. A strut bar on the top may stiffen things a bit if you have a sunroof. It's the torsional stiffness that is lacking and there isn't much you can do, short of a roll cage, that will improve it.If you are set on...
The top pic above shows a drivers side arm, typical of what you get when ordering new mitsubishi replacement parts. The bushing in this configuration lessens the caster on that side, theoretically optimizing handling on the right side of a crowned road. For equal (and generally better)...
I wouldn't drive around the block without the nut on. The dealer will replace it regardless of the abuse if it has not been already replaced under the recall, otherwise I would highly doubt it.
You might want to reconsider the 275's. 275/35/17 sounds about right but I don't know that that size exists. Last I knew 285/30/18's ruled at autocross. You'll want no more than +20mm offset for them, +15mm would be safer.
While that write up does not declare what stock size was used as baseline, you may have inferred that the baseline is 205/55/16, in which case you would be correct. You are also correct in assuming the only difference if 215/50/17 was the baseline would be the values in the "%Diff from Stock"...
You might want to try this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/249725-spyder-mods-covertible-top-up-down-any-speed.htmlThis mod is not for everyone. You are escentially removing part of the idiot-proofing.
I know nothing about the part numbers but last time I purchased toe control arms with an online parts selector (mitsubishiparts.com) there were 3 different arms listed at 3 different prices.Now that I look, I see that the front arm has 4 listings and the trailing arm has 2 (turbo/nonturbo).
Yes, 225/45/17 on the 17-inch +42mm offset would be fine.[/sarcasm on]
If you want to use 17-inch tires on 16-inch wheels you will need a one-inch spacer.
[sarcasm off]
I do not recommend 17-inch tires on 16-wheels. They may rattle around a bit.You will be fine with more common 225/45/17's on 17-inch wheels with offset (ET) somewhere around 40-46mm.
You could pull the steering wheel off and place it a few degrees to the right, then get the car realigned. This would give you a bit tighter steering on left turns at the expense of wiode right hand turns.
Torque is a big part of it, but the problem with the stock brakes in a motorsports application is not enough mass in the rotors to sink the heat that's being generated. It seems like the powerslot kit has that aspect covered.
Anyone try the Chinese all-in-one units showing up on ebay? They are about half the price of comparable name-brand nav-sereos, but still they are up around $500. Not exactly chump change.
The clamp type separators often work better than the fork but they don't always fit.You need only remove the outboard ends of the lower lateral control arm and fork to separate the axle. You might want to read up on the axle removal threads. It can be a pain without a hub puller...
It shouldn't really be necessary to snap the other end out of the transmission. It only takes a moment though and it might make changing the boot easier.It's kind of like saying you can't decide whether or not to take your shoes off when you change your pants.
The diameter is a little big but could fit if offset is close to +40mm. If you are rubbing at the knuckle you could use a spacer. You can space the wheel with washers to get an idea of how thick a spacer you need, but don't be tempted to leave them in there. Spacers typically require longer...
The stock ebc has only a narrow range of control. When it's closed, boost level is limited to the activation pressure of the waste gate actuator. When it's open, it allows a few pounds more boost to the intake before sufficient pressure reaches the waste gate actuator to open it. It's not an...
That's kind of like saying, "I got a pair of shoes from my cousin. Will they fit me?" I don't know your cousin.Anyhow, you put them on. Where did they not fit? Also, offset or "ET" is often stamped into an unmachined surface on the back of the wheel.
had
People "upgrade" for different reasons; some for performance, some for style, more likely a combination of the two. I stop short of recommending brands or styles. I only look at the specs to determine fit. Regardless of your reasons this will likely be the most expensive single upgrade and...