Alright, guys. I know this is the dead horse. But check it out, there's a new bad boy with an electric supercharger. And, it isn't a leaf blower or a fume blower. We're talking nearly 100WHP.For those of you that subscribe to Turbo and High Performance magazine (www.turbomagazine.com)...

TOB...Off topic: 21,168 posts, Defiant?! I wonder how many hard drives Luda has had to purchase because of you...... :D

I just got a used 2G mani in and it has a little surface rust. I wanted to sand it down and paint the outside. I was wondering if anyone has successfully painted their exhaust mani with a paint that has lasted a year or two.If you did, please post the brand you used and where you got it...

When you guys are checking for boost leaks, how are you making sure that the air isn't escaping through the cylinders into the exhaust manifold? Is it an unwritten/assumed rule that you should be at TDC when boost leak testing?

Bout all the T-25 is good for! ROFL

GTM -I read into it a little further and found a Symantec article as a bit of backup to what I was talking about earlier.http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/ghost.nsf/docid/2000092016111625?Open&src=&docid=2000050515082425&nsf=ghost.nsf&view=docid&dtype=&prod=&ver=&osv=&osv_lvl=&seg=Now...

GTM -I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but what you're trying to do probably isn't possible without a lot of time and hacking. I'm a programmer by trade, soon to be a network admin, and I wouldn't be confident in my abilities to actually make what you're trying to do work.9 times out of...

Your transmission hates you already. :p :DIn all seriousness, though, you'll need a very stout transmission to handle shifts at that high a RPM.EDIT: I know that doesn't answer your question, but I just figured you'd want to add that to your total cost.

Pretty sure they're full of it.....Could be wrong though.

Seriously, it's been long enough!WE NEED T3H INFO.

Spark timing, cam timing, or both?I was going to suggest checking the timing belt if you haven't already. It would seem logical that you'd get a CAS error if the cam timing had jumped enough or the belt had shredded.

NEVER try to use ANY vacuum line for your fuel system! The lines are NOT meant to withstand 50-100PSI. They WILL burst, and you'll likely set your car on fire!Whether or not they'll work for your cooling system could be hit or miss - most vacuum lines won't stand up to the heat.

His vacuum should be ABOUT right...Assuming a 1:1 regulator:1PSI = 2.036 inHg8 * 2.036 = 16.28 inHgI'd still recommend the boost leak test though.

15" can be perfectly normal, depending on cams and altitude.

It's possible to have zero compression on all 4 without bent valves if the timing jumped enough to not allow the valves to close completely during the compression stroke.If it jumped timing, put a new belt on correctly and recheck compression. If you still get zeroes across the board, it's...

First order of business: Figure out what type of injectors you have. If they all came from the vendor reading 8 ohms, you need to remove the resistor pack to use those injectors. If that was the case, I'm surprised they even work(ed) at all.Second: check your alternator output voltage with...

If the resistor pack was dead, it would fry the transistor drivers in the ECU, not your injectors. Low impedence injectors are made to soak up 4-7.2 amps (a lot.) If the injectors are burning up, it's because they're driven at too high a voltage, or too high a duty cycle.

Well, he's half right - gunked up hydraulic lash adjusters cause out-of-spec valve lash, which in turn causes the noise. You're right, of course, that you can't adjust them manually... :D

WHOA WHOA WHOA! - there were no insults intended here!You guys are the the reason this community is what it is, so I wasn't attempting to fling mud or put down anyone here. I was just surprised that it wasn't mentioned, and it turns out that it was because I was reading it differently than...

:thumb:The ECU energizes the coil side of the relay. If the ECU resets, the MPI relay clicks on and off because the ECU can't supply enough current to sustain the electromagnetic field in the coil.One thing I do want to clarify though - I may have misunderstood by the "clicking" - if they...

All of these wisemen here, and nobody's noticed this:This is one of the key signs of failed capacitors in your ECU. The MPI relay clicks on and off because the ECU goes into reset mode over and over due to a faulty power supply.Pull your ECU and check the capacitors - make sure they're not...

Checking the 90AMP fusible link for the alternator would be a good idea, IMO.

Ha! I knew it! :rocks:

Yes - there will be a slight pressure drop, but only because you're cooling the air. Cool air takes up less room - you'll still be flowing the same amount of air to the engine. You can still make more power because you'll have less heat making it to the engine, and therefore you can run a...

This guy's name isn't Jack by chance, is it? :D

I created a steel 3/8" hardline from the tank to the firewall without too much trouble. My fuel filter is a $10 job from AutoZone that was made for a certain GM car (don't remember which) that has 3/8" 45* flare inlets and outlets. From there, I bought a 45* to -6 AN flare adapter, and ran...

I'm betting your O2 sensor needs to be replaced. If not, it may be a product of the cracked exhaust manifold, which can throw off your O2 sensor readings.

I would say drop the timing back down to 5* and give it a try, but that's probably not going to be your culprit.....Maybe you and I need to get together.... I have the exact same problem - and it just so happens I live in the exact same town... ROFLI also have a 2G MAS..... I've replaced the...

Well, you'd probably get slightly better gas mileage - but mainly, you'd get less hesitation and stumbling from quick throttle position changes.

My vote is on the center diff, personally, or a popped out axle, as steve suggested.If you keep on running the car with this problem, your VC will probably overheat and go too.

You should test it wherever you have to in order to get no leaks, from the turbo all the way to the engine. :cool:I agree that this sounds as if it's your problem.

Check for boost leaks.You're likely spinning your turbo too fast because of one.If you have no boost leaks, check for shaft play on the turbo.

When a car misfires in open loop mode, it's usually going to dump a cylinder full of unburnt gasoline and oxygen into the exhaust manifold. If that O2 and fuel remains unburnt, the oxygen sensor will read that oxygen.When this happens, the ECU is going to think the car is running lean...

If you're not getting spark on 1 and 4, I would suspect your power transistor module (ignitor pack) is probably dead, otherwise the coil itself is very messed up.

No, I was talking out of my ass for the fun of it. Do you even know how to read the entire post?If his clutch is slipping in 3rd gear, it's utterly and completely screwed. I have a T04B set at 18 PSI on a STOCK CLUTCH, and it doesn't slip in 3rd gear.You also have to be a moron not...

I wanted to make sure the point was getting (read: beaten) across. It's been brought up multiple times in this thread, yet I guess some weren't paying attention....

To anyone reading this thread, heed this advice. DO NOT TRY TO PIGGYBACK EXTRA INJECTORS BY WIRING THEM IN PARALLEL ON A STOCK ECU. The drivers (read: transistors) are NOT built to sink the added current.

I'd imagine that the reason they went top-mount is because fitting all that turbo in the stock location would be a little..... interesting.

Man, I hope you guys are joking. People must be playing NFSU too much.A HEAVIER CLUTCH DOES NOT TRANSFER MORE POWER.All an upgraded clutch does it hold up to abuse better without slipping, grenading or frying. A nonslipping stock clutch will transfer the same power to the ground than...

A flat surface (no angles) will seal better than an angled surface.The idea is that with more angles on the valves, there's less sharp edges to create turbulence so that air can flow more smoothly.IMO, anything over a 3-angle valve job isn't worth the extra effort and price. But again...

OK - what I want to know is, has anyone yet found a valve spring compressor that works on DSMs with the head on the car and that doesn't cost $200+?Last I've seen, you can make a compressor that works with the head off, but not on... has anyone found a way around this?

A single chipped valve would show up as a quickly bouncing needle on a vacuum gauge. It would bounce whenever it hit that cylinder because the vacuum would drop drastically every time that valve tried to seal but couldn't.

Auto Parts stores wanted to charge me $17 an injector for the three seals on the injector. I got a set of the upper and lower seals for $10 thru DSMotorsport.

No reason to use a mixture, unless it's just to save some cash on cheaper stuff.

Touché! :D

Are you 100% positive that all of your injector harness connectors are seated fully and clipped in?

I'm truly amazed. I think that's the smartest thing I've heard someone say in months on here. ROFL

I'd think that it could be feasible, assuming it was 100% gaseous by the time it hit the turbine blades.I'd thought of a similar concept to save gas during idling on ICEs. Instead of using 100% gasoline to keep the engine idling, turn off the injectors to each cylinder every 4th revolution...

And, another added benefit - if you ever had to operate in N/A mode, you could disconnect your UICP from your MAS, pop your 3'' air filter on your 3'' MAS, disconnect your WGA and you're on your way.