If you are looking for an inexpensive upgrade, I would say yes they are worth it. Especially for a street car, that you might AC a few times. If you were going to be doing some races often, I would go with something a bit larger/better. Whatever you do, put a nice coating on them before you...

Making the assumption that your oiling is ok, I would agree with DSMPT. If your gas temps were getting high frequently, they could have caused issues with oiling burning off, or expansion issues. Based on the fact you had detonation issues, this is where i would lean.

Over the years, I did more than my share of swaps. The best advice I can give, is use the 6 bolt version of every part that is different. Assuming this, swaps are easy. Ill be it a bit pricey the more parts you need. Also, don't be afraid to pay for new parts over used ones. The last thing...

What is the part number for Clevite 6bolt race bearings? I got some and I want to make sure they are the right part number...because the are not the right size. Thx

I've been dating the same girl for about 3.5 years now. She has been my everything for that whole time. I've spent more money on her and more time than my DSM. Well about 2 months ago we were talking "hypathetically" about getting married. We decided that we weren't ready got get married...

The only time other than headgasket i've had one blow out was when the plugs I got were the incorrect size. I was given standard instead of metric. So now i just order them from the dealer.

His is the one i missed :(

I'd check the plug above the rear main cover...I've had those leak plenty of times...fun to get to though..

Well I think I found the problem, I believe that the head that I was swapping on was warped. Cause I got a different head, and am not having the problem anymore. Thx for all the help guys! :)

Yup gauge is good. Tried it on another of my dsms.

Ok heres the problem: I have a 93 awd, changed the head. Get everything assembled timed and I only get 20-30psi of comp. Here's what i know: The Head isn't leaking, Valves are all good and deck/head surface is fine. The Pistons are going up and down :) The timing meets up according to...

If you are planning on doing a built...there is no reason not to do a turbo one...n/a will never come close....

There are alot of turbos on ebay. I approach them just like any item I'd buy off of ebay. Do your research on the item to make sure it is authentic. And make sure that the seller has positive feedback, more then 20 or so. Email the seller before hand...and if need be ask questions on tuners...

Low 12's....that's if you dont blow anything up...lolSounds sweet!

Hi, Motor looks sweet! I would consider oversizing the cylinders and making a 2.1 liter out of it.

I have had this problem before. It seemed to happen after I installed my larger diameter downpipe. What I found works the best is to buy a relocation kit. That has fixed my problem 100%. I tried everything else....locktight...you name it. That's my advice....or switch to an air cooler. I...

I tried to get on 1320video..but seems to be down. As for 500 hp on stock 7 bolt, it's possible. But how long will that motor last is the real question.

The 95-96 Cam angle runs off of an inner section on the intake cam angle gear. Any other year does not do this. I believe that the hks cam gear does not have this inner section. Hense, modification would be to either use a different year cas and invert the ecu reading, such as in dsm link, or...

I agree...you could put the money into something else and get more for your money...

Sorry but it can't.

You could always go stainless :thumb:

If anyone has already paid you could call you credit company and have them reverse payment.....if they used a credit card. My buddy had to do that once i told him of the "Scam" :notgood:

Yeah...these guys are douche bags...:)

The only part that was from the motor was the squirter tube....everything else was "spare parts"

I was pulling apart my awd yesterday to pull out the seized balance shafts and found these in the oil pan sump. I think I've figured out what they all are.. the bolt is the main cap bolt that the sump connects to, the other two things are location pins, some small cast aluminum piece, and the...

Well, i'm the guy who put in the core plugs on the block. I did get the right size, and did install them correctly. I build motors quite often and this is the first one that has blown plugs. Why it would be doing it I dont know. Unless the metal hg is leaking like Reg said...I think it...

Well I think I'm going to bring this project back to life. I have access to a machine shop that would be 100% will to make up some brackets. I need to save up some cash for 2g vr calipers, i already have 13" rotors...so we'll see if i get anywhere.....

Yeah I did the b/s myself. I have the ## ss set. I've had them in since dec 04

I also have the b/s gone. I notice a little vibration, but nothing outragous. My car revs like a bat out of hell though. I believe that the pulleys help. But I have the whole set not just the crank pulley also. Plus no A/c

I am currently using the entire ## ss set. I have not had any issues at all. Also I have noticed a difference in the rev speed of the motor. Due to the lower rotational mass, the motor will rev faster. As for bad for the bearings....I think not. The only added vibration will be from the...

Also, you need to cut the 2g d/s motor mount. But that's pretty easy, and sometimes you have to make the head stud holes larger for the 6 bolt head bolts/studs. Other than that its just the cam angle and you're good to go.

Ended up being that the bolt for the balance shaft came loose. So the pump wasn't seized after all. We were pleased.

Not a minute...it was about 5 minutes...lol :thumb: It will get fixed tonight..

I would avoid shimming anything. Should work the way it's designed...

I'd think so too. Might want to be sure that the clutch problem is 100% clear before you replace the bearings so that this doesn't happen again.

Well, last night I was getting a car I have been working on for about 2 months now to idle right. After about 5 minutes it was running like a champ. We had good compression, good temps, and good oil pressure. This was the first time that the motor had been running since the build. Well I had...

Yea, you're right they're not cracked. Most of the time most rods are...

I hope you are talking about the cam bearing caps. Cause the rod bearings have to be matched up. Typically rods are individually cracked and only match with itself. But like everyone has stated...cam caps are numbered.

The rods are pretty decent. I've built a few motors that reved to over 7k quite often (track motors) and the rods never went. As for pistons I would recommend a forged piston. That way you are better protected from heat and blah blah blah...

I find that the balance shaft belt just loves to break just to piss you off. Last Nov my b.s. belt went on my 93 awd and ending up eating all the teeth of the timing belt. And the belts only had about 5k miles on them. To make a long story short balence shaft belt=bad, bs elim kit=good :thumb:

I would just recommend slowly releasing the line at the fuel rail. Just have a rag there to grab it. At the worst you u let it evaporate.

I would agree 100%. Look and see how much they want to assemble it. If they want a few hundred dollars I'd consider it, since you'd have to spend the time on finding the tools, and the money. My only beef with having machine shops do it is they always take longer than they tell ya. I took a...

Well, not alot but when i'm racing sometimes it happens and i've never ran into a problem yet.

As long as u have a tourque wrench, some time, and a service manual, i'd save the money and do it yourself. it's not really that difficult.

I am running the fp2 comps with si dual springs and manley tit retainers with stainless valves...i've reved to 8500, alot with no prob. I did notice some low end loss.

Basically the way any machinist i deal with just sees it as a cast iron block. They usually dont care what it is. I wouldn't worry about grinding the crank. usually that is something that one does when there is scoring on the crank, not to lighten. Usually it is a good idea to give the shop...

The only problem with pulling it out, is in a 1g it's not quite as easy as a 2g. But I agree, it is the 100% way to tell if it is an aftermarket pump or not.

Well, i work at a GM performance shop. So usually we buy GM stuff from them.

1120P Unless maybe they just had some leftovers or something.

Yeah i got some of the rod bearings. They look like standard clevites to me. I do order them straight from clevite's distributer though. :thumb: