Definitely interested.

Toyo R888 275/40ZR17 25.7 inch overall diameter

Here are a couple pics, I cranked the brightness up a lot in the first one to help show the tires.

I have a set of 17x9.5 +30mm wheels that fit fairly well with 275 tires. With 0 camber they stick out about 1" 3/4 in front. They required grinding down the seam on the rear swingarm and re-welding it.

For more pics on some Evos:Rota P45R Wheel thread!! - evolutionm.netThese absolutely require coilovers to fit, and they also require grinding the seam on the rear "trailing arm" down and re-welding it.I can't get any more pics of them on the car as I had to put the Toyo R888's away...

The Cobra rotor and VR4 caliper setup isn't on the car in this picture, but with these wheels I don't need spacers anymore when I do have it on (and I get to run 275/40/R17's):17x9.5 Rota P45R(5X114.3/e30/73)There is acres of space to fit whatever caliper I could ever want. :sneaky:

I'm running Crower 288's with 9:1 Ross pistons and 1mm os valves.Cam choice shouldn't really be affected until you try to go 2mm os on the intake I believe.Did the builder have to deck a lot off of the head and block?

Definitely, and don't forget things like engine and drivetrain fluids, maybe a twin disk clutch, using springs on the brake calipers to pull the pads all the way off the rotors, etc. I'm betting the wheels and AL driveshaft are two of the larger 'little fractions' that are adding up here. The...

They're from the 99 to 03 Mustang Cobra, could be as far back as 95 but I don't remember for sure.

I decided to go a bit crazy for my trackday car over the winter.I lost my original twin sequential 16g car in a garage fire back in September(damn wiring in a friend's building). Surviving parts included my 2.3 stroker longblock, built transmission, twin disc clutch, AL radiator, Eprom...

Let me know how that works out, it'd be nice to ditch the wheel spacers.

Yeah, Grade 8 bolts should really only be used for putting shelves together or something :DMost of the OEM bolts seem to be roughly equivalent to AN bolts, or if you want to do even better there's always NAS bolts and the ARP stuff, many of which you can buy pre-drilled for safety wire.

The garage I was renting burned down with the car in it:http://s50.photobucket.com/albums/f306/haunterhaunterhaunter/fire/I never really got it working all that well. The second turbo never wanted to come in until over 7500 when I had the boost around 23-25 psi, but it did pull very smartly...

The stock 1G intake manifold won't really work well above 6.5k rpm and is probably what is holding you back on the top end power.

It could also be from the water-oil cooler, they have a tendency to crush if the oil filter is overtightened and leak oil into an otherwise completely healthy cooling system.

I'm just going off of the picture on slowboy's site, but I just noticed they have the same picture for both the 2.0 and 2.3 pistons, so I could be totally wrong. Boy are those Mahles lightweight at 250grams.

I have not had any problem with the stock 6-bolt fasteners either.

I didn't say they were BAD rods, I was just saying they're the worst of the aftermarket rods. Can you name an aftermarket rod that's worse than an Eagle as far as durability? They do at least hold the advantage of being the lightest steel rod out there, although the Scat rods are right there...

Ross vs Arias is pretty much a toss up, but the Pauter rods are much, much better than the Eagle rods. Eagle rods are pretty much at the bottom of the barrel as far as aftermarket rods go.

I always prime my motors with an electric drill on the engine stand shortly before I put the timing belt on.You'd have to be MIGHTY fast at installing T-belts for it to make a difference whether you prime it in the car or on the stand. :D

In regards to the part throttle compressor surge, the BOV spring may not help entirely(but it will help the car blow off from low boost levels when letting off the gas). Part throttle surge is just a fact of life for larger turbos on smaller engines. The turbo is spooling too quickly while the...

Yes, moving the pin up more is possible, but it does have some downsides. I'm not sure about some of the other pistons, but moving the pin up 3mm on my 2.3 Ross pistons would put the pin almost into the 2nd ringland. Both the top and bottom ringlands would have to be moved up towards the top...

That's only because your car was on cheap half dry-rotted all seasons :DIt would have been fun to compare my car to your old setup, but your new setup could probably pull my car down the track on a trailer faster than my car could make it down the strip on its own, haha.I did the...

Hmm, I got a few replies(colt boostin and stealthTT) to this thread that only showed up in e-mail, that's odd.The car has been back together for a little while now, but I haven't had a ton of time to mess with it. The system works almost transparently at 10 psi with boost staying nice and...

Well, I run a Gen 2 trans with a 3.5" blowthrough MAF (including 3.5" piping, having a piping size transition in front of or behind the MAF is a big no no and probably the source of many problems in the DSM community). I got the Gen 2 for free from Full Throttle Speed at the Buick...

GL4 oils have the exact same corrosive additive (sulphur/phosphorus) as GL5 oils. Its just that standard GL4 oils have 10x less of it than standard GL5. Mobil 1 synthetic only has a little more sulphur and phosphorus than standard GL4 oils. Even Redline MTL has a bunch of phosphorus in it...

I believe you said you have a Jack's transmission, right?They recommend Mobil 1 because that's what they've set up all the bearing preloads for, and they also spun it up with Mobil 1 in it for testing purposes. Why would you run anything else? :confused:

I would have loved to do this, but I won't get my transmission until after the 2nd.

Regular oil will hold on moderately well until about 265 to 280, normal synthetics do pretty well on past 300F. High end turbine oil will be just fine past 500F :DModern air cooled Ducatis have a High Oil Temp warning light that comes on at 338F, and are fine to run conventional oil in. WTF...

My Manley I-beams were around 205g on the small end and 488g on the large end, so, even heavier than the Crowers.

Is that with or without your girdle? BTW the highspeed camera video of the valvetrain is really cool on your website.

That's almost identical to what happened when I blew a ringland off the top of a stock piston. I was even on my way to autocross also, hah. I got on it hard in 3rd and 4th gear, let off and there was a trail of smoke behind me and the car is suddenly running on 3.25 cylinders. Bye bye 183k...

Here are pics of what is left of the trans: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262603

They're just cheap SS Autochrome wastegates, but they don't leak at all. The only issue I've had with them is that none of the hardware is tight out of the box.Their 50mm wastegates did leak a little bit.It'll be another two weeks before I have a transmission :(

Great writeup, and your manifold looks very nice!

I killed my trans, oops.

Yeah, there's aren't very many DSMs in Champaign.

The challenge in using a blow off valve to vent the air is that I would need a vacuum storage tank to supply vacuum to pull the BOV open when the solenoid clicked over, or I would need to add a port to the bottom side of the BOV diaphragm, which is possible, but annoying. The wastegate is just...

I really think the fix will work also, the FD RX-7 does the same thing:http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/TurbochargerOverview.htm

A few more pictures:

I know most people on DSM forums immediately cringe whenever the subject of twin turbos comes up, but I know some people might at least find my car interesting. Its definitely not a guide on how to make pretty welds :tease:My basic goals for the project are good power in the wide range of 3k...

I completely forgot that my cams are the original 64415's, which after consulting the cam card are advertised as 292/288, but the .050 is only 214/206, with a rather crazy valve lift spec of .450 intake and .4335 exhaust. The ramp rate is also very conservative, even compared to non "FPXx"...

Did you spin the crank to the timing belt mark and install the cams with the dowels facing upward? If you just put the cams in any old way and then line them to put the timing belt on, you run the risk of bending valves.

I made a crucial design error that resulted in the second turbo surging badly between 5-7k, so I'm not quite ready to post up about it. To put it very briefly(and try not to threadjack too much), the second turbo is fed exhaust from a pair of 60mm wastegates on the exhaust manifold. There's a...

Well, they pull past 9k, but they make the most power around 8500 or so. I've been shifting the 1-2 at 9500. The head I'm currently running doesn't have a whole lot of work done to it. I wanted to sort out my turbo setup before playing with the expensive head.And my turbo setup may flow...

I have the 288/288 Crower cams, they like to idle around 1200-1300 rpm on my 2.3. They make great power up to about 8700rpm, but they're starting to run out of steam by 9k.If you can find a set in stock, the Brian Crower 280/280 cams are fairly similar to the Crower 288/288 at a much lower...

You bought the wrong kit if the controller is looking for a voltage. . . the MAF sensors on our cars output a frequency, not a voltage. Snow offers a kit especially for DSMs, or you could get their GM specific kit if you want to get the signal directly from the MAF.

First off, your new shift points look just about perfect. :thumb:Second, when you base your shift points off of a horsepower graph, you don't care about the torque multiplication of the trans. If you pick the shift points to get the maximum horsepower under the curve between the start and...

Nice setup!

I also have a 12-pt 14mm I purchased for 6-bolt ARP headstud nuts, which I have used several times.