Hey guys, I have a broken manifold stud. It's about half an inch inside the head. I tried to remove it using a Black&Decker #3 extraction screw and the tip broke off. lol. Any good ideas? Thanks.
I don't remember what happened but but I may have lost interest and stop reading the thread after your initial response, my bad. :coy:For future reference, this boost leak test tech article is a good reference."5. Listen to your tailpipe for leaks. (EGR, valve overlap, jumped timing...
If you have answered all of my questions in detail, your problem would have been resolved long ago. :pStuck open EGR = air out of the tail pipe. Question #5 in post #35.
You can either tap the starter until they line up OR you can stick a 1/2" drive/extentension through the hole on the driverside wheel well splash guard and rotate the engine (CW ONLY) until they line up.
:shhh: Defiant might hear you. :shhh:I don't multi task well and sometimes attention needs to be focused my business and personal life but I will slowly worked my way back in, I always do. :)
That only tells half of how it's hooked up, which fitting on the MBC is hooked to the J-pipe? Also, how sure are you that it's a ball and spring? All MBC's are suppose to go between wastegate and J-pipe, it's the fittings on the MBC that are suppose to be opposite between ball/spring and...
Different type of MBC's, ball and spring vs. bleeder, are hooked up and adjusted differently. Let's start with which type of MBC you have and how it's hooked up?
Have you forgotten what we discussed via pm, I will give you some time to edit some of your posts in this thread, I will not ask you again.1. If your crank mark is lined up in the picture you posted, your timing belt was not installed properly, the exhaust cam needs to be rotated CW one...
It would be pretty hard pressed to blame the CHRA for inconsistent fuel trims. :)7/05......I can't even remember who....I mean what I did last night. :D
I have tested many many cars with different turbos, T25, 14B, 16G's, 50trim, GT-R's...etc., the results are always the same, gurgling sound in the crankcase. Disassemble a turbo and take a look at the so call seal so you know what I'm talking about.I don't see how that is possible since TDC =...
Please use proper grammar, punctuation and capitalization in tech forums, some of your posts have been deleted because they're simply not legible, post again when you're reading to follow the grammar rules.
No, you're pressurizing towards the engine, not towards the turbo. Once you're done fixing leaks after the TB, reconnect the UICP and retest from the turbo.
There is a big difference between having a shitty looking car vs. being stuck on the road with your strut poking through your hood after hitting a bump. :p That is what will happen eventually if you don't take care of that rust.
This issue isn't just limited to a 50 trim, all CHRA's does it. Why? Because the so call "turbo seal" really isn't a seal in the sense of what we normally think a seal is, it is simply a piece of metal plate pressed up against the housing via oil pressure. The only way the "seal" can be...
Please use the search button before posting new threads, this question has been asked and answered hundreds of times. Technically, the answer is yes since anything is possible. However, the amount of cost and fabrication involved makes the logical question "no" since they're pretty much two...
Torque pattern is only half of the requirements, they're suppose to be torqued down in two to three steps to avoid warping the head. Therefore the answer to OP's question is NO, it's a terrible idea.
Alright, before the last two posts (before Paul) are taken too far and mis-interpreted by newbies. Yes, leaking through the center section into your crankcase during a static pressure test has long been a known issue, it is nothing new, if you're just finding this out now, you have not read any...
The marks must be dead on, sounds like your exhaust cam is off by one tooth and needs to be rotated one more tooth CW when you initially put the belt on, a very common mistake even among some of the so call "DSM shops".
Indeed, "boost cut" would have been more appropriate. The purpose of "fuel cut" is to guard against defective wastegate/BCS, it does this by cutting fuel when the pre-programed amount of airflow is surpassed, hence the term "fuel cut", also the reason why boost leaks is the number one cause of...
If that includes a replacement bell housing, it's a great price, beats picking up an abused tranny from the boneyard. Make sure you bleed the system properly afterwards since you changed the slave cylinder.
It goes right into the engine harness behind the intake manifold. If you truly have the 90' harness, you can't miss it as there is only one small plug that will fit.Again, like Eric said, next time you bump again, you will receive a warning as well as thread closure.
None sense, a car is judged by how well it's maintained, not how many mods you have. Chinese Mike, for example, has many mods but he still runs 16's. :D :p