It really just shakes the whole front of the car like a jolting stutter is the best I can describe it, I can definitely feel it in the steering wheel but that’s just because the entire car is jolting LOL also I’m fwd sadly

I mean I just had my rear ones replaced and balanced so I could always swap the front for the rear ones and see if I notice any difference

Alright so I’ve been doing more and more driving after putting both new driver side and passenger side axels in, driver and passenger lower control arms and the passenger compression control arm. I’ve only gotten the car to do the shudder once now this week and it’s been doing it less and less...

Currently only on lowering springs, looking to get another set of coilovers in the future. As far as suspension, I’ve had it in the air and I’ve replaced both lower control arms on both driver and passenger front, my driver side is super solid when it comes to play but my passenger side lower...

Got the new cv in and that doesn’t seem to help my issue, not too sure if it’s related but I did notice that my passenger side lower compression control arm is basically on its last limb. I have brand new axels on both driver and passenger side, I’m not 100% on my theory yet but it only seems to...

So basically I’m confused as to what this issue could be, anytime I hit about 65-70ish under somewhat heavy throttle, it feels as my right side of the car is almost skipping or shuddering I guess would be the best way to describe it. I don’t really feel it inside the car but more so coming from...

Could be badly machined splines, do not force the axel in if it will not go in.

I was able to get the driver side one from there just they don’t have a passenger side for my car, I was looking at a 3g axel to see if it’d fit and they’re the same spline count for inner and outer just the length is longer by 2/10ths of an inch so I wasn’t sure it’d work or not

The duralast ones?

Would this cv work, I know spline counts are 27 annd 25 and matches and the compressed length call for 25-1/2 and this cv is 25-11/16. So just wondering if that 2/10ths of an inch longer would make it unusable?This was another I was looking at and just wasn’t sure how good they’d hold up, I...

Understood🫡

Just curious what you all are using for your cv axel replacements, I just recently got a new driver side axel from o’reillys and just putting miles on that to see how it’ll hold but they don’t carry the passenger side so I’ve been looking elsewhere, looked on advanced and autozone and I don’t...

Here’s a little bit more straightforward video of the sound right on cold startup

Most definitely have lifter tick lol just wasn’t sure if the other noise was something I should be worried about or not

Timing cover was definitely one of my thoughts, just wasn’t sure if the sound was something to be worried about

Alright so I just got my car back from engine builder and dyno last week and everytime I start my car and it’s in low rpms I can hear this clacking noise, I’m not 100% sure if I’m just tripping out and this is normal or what but I just wanna know what you all think. I’ll add the video.

So I went ahead and got a second ptu to test and it did it again so that leads me to believe it’s one of the coils just bc I just recently got my ecu with dsmlink so the ecu is fresh but how could I tell which coil is the culprit?

Some late nights being super tired made me cut the wrong wire at the ecu… lol went back to check my wiring and seen what I did… connected it all to the correct wire and boom it all started working😂

Got it all figured out

So I’ve been trying to get to the bottom of this issue and would like some opinions on it as well.So I took my car home from our shop about a month and a half ago and on the way home it got a bad misfire sounding like it was only firing on two cylinders, I thought it’s the crappy iridium...

Every time I set my narrowband simulation to on it just makes my car stumble and undriveable so I’ve just had it selected as undefined in the ecu input tab but when it is on it’s set to switch at 2.49v and my bottom options are set for a delay of 15secs and 0+ - and 0v and I now have it wired in...

Alright so I’m thinking I’m gonna switch from pin 76 for the front 02 to pin 75 for the rear 02 sensor and then selecting for that as my rear 02 sensor for my narrowband simulation and seeing how that does.

First log is the driving log and second log is for when I selected the sensor for narrowband simulation.

So I just recently got ECMLink installed in my car and got it running as it should. On my log it is showing my AFR to be lean at idle, also I have an AEM wideband gauge and I spliced it into pin 76 for the front 02 sensor and when I select the front 02 sensor as my input pin for my narrowband...

After life took a good bit of my time I was finally able to get the eclipse fully bolted all back up and tested it… we’re back in business. I’m hoping everything goes good from here with that but time will tell.

As far as I can see everything looks to be good, tob still spins fine and moves good and the fork seems to be good as well, I’m hoping to have it all bolted it up tomorrow so we’ll see how everything is then.

Wound up having to pull the trans, I finally got it and just gotta put the trans back in now so hopefully once it’s back in the issue is gone.

Alright so I am aware that the bolt is smaller than the rest, I bought the bolt kit that has all the bolts and followed the diagram, also I was very very careful to be sure that I got onto the bolt and not the case. I just got the easy out to go in a little bit but it just wouldn’t dig it kept...

How tight should that bolt be in there? I’ve been trying to get it out with my easy out but it’s just been a pita and I really don’t want to pull the trans just to get one single bolt out but if dropping the driver side cv doesn’t give me the room then I’ll drop the trans. I just wasn’t sure how...

Got bad news… it’s fixable though, so I went to put the “jesse” bolt in the trans and it’s one of the ones that goes from the engine side to the trans and well the bolt wouldn’t go in so I was like huh… so I grabbed my camera thingy and and looked and well to me it looks like there’s a bolt...

Definitely not a cheap clutch issue, It’s a clutch master clutch kit and a act lightweight flywheel, also fork position is sitting right in the middle and not at an angle like as if it was sitting too far forward or back, but I’ll still take a pic.I have one bolt missing right beside the slave...

Car has a brand new throw out bearing. New clutch and flywheel as well.What could cause this? If I look into the boot I can’t see anything out the ordinary, clutch moves in when the pedal is pushed and the bolts are tight so I just don’t even know what’s causing the noise.

Here’s the noise my car is making when I try to push the clutch in.

Engine is not misfiring, checked all the cylinders and each one made the rpm’s drop so that eliminated that, I pulled my slave cylinder off the car to see if that would make a difference and the car didn’t shake like it was and was back to normal, I had a buddy push the clutch in while I was...

That’s what I had in it before and had no issues I just wanted to see if there was any noticeable difference, which I honestly couldn’t notice a difference.

Plug wires are brand new along with the plugs themselves, I pretty much replaced everything when I did the rebuild. I have a set of NGK BKR7EIX IX iridium plugs in the car, they were more expensive than just the regular ngk plugs you would normally get but they said to have a better ignition...

Only the one bolt is missing on the one mount, the rest of them are there, I didn’t have this shake before it just came out of nowhere.

Yes both were pulled out for the delete, and I’ll see if it can’t see a busted mount with it running and also I do have a stethoscope so I’ll definitely listen as well and see what I find.

No on the balance shafts, they’re deleted. I’ll check the crank sensor along with tapping on the top and also the motor has a rebuilt bottom end with only 32 miles on it so far, is c walk possible this early? Also the mount that has the missing bolt is the first pic, from the angle of the pic...

Of course you can’t really tell in the video because my phone auto focuses the frames I guess to make it shake less on the video, but it’s bad enough where I can easily feel it in the car, I did have light vibrations before, but this is much worse than how it normally is. Also my car is a manual.

Got a couple CELs, dual upper alternator fail (bad plug to alt), egr, evap code and yes I’ve done one, no leaks, I had a tiny leak from my outer tb gasket but I fixed that.My engine runs fine. It revs perfectly, just the shaking seems to be from the trans area.

Double checked all the bolts on the trans to engine and all the other mounts are nice and tight expect the back trans mount that has the one bolt missing, could this cause such a violent shake? I’ll check over everything again either tomorrow or Friday, I swear every time I fix something it...

This car man… these things make me lose hope. Anyways, so I’ve been fighting my idle and I went to test it out today and started driving and made it about 30 feet when all of a sudden I heard what sounded like my cam gear cover rubbing against the cams, then my car died, the engine is fine and...

I think I got everything adjusted good now.I let the car get up to temp and drove it around the shop and it didn’t die when I came to a stop so think it’s all good there, although I’m not 100 percent sure because I went to go for a test drive, I started the car and when I pressed the clutch...

I have a maf setup and my bov is recirculated so I know that’s good and I still need to adjust my tps bc I know it’s still not adjusted right.

Omg, I completely forgot about this… welp that would make complete sense, it’s not sitting at the right position so when it’s hot it’s not allowing the air in, thank you all I can’t believe I forgot all about that little screw, I was messing with it way back when it was idling too high and I...

Alright did a boost leak test tonight and I have a leak on the outer tb gasket, but wouldn’t it affect my idle when the motor is cold too? Why is it different results when the car is hot? I just don’t get why it dies only when it’s hot.

I have not done a boost leak test since the rebuild but before I pulled the motor and had it running I had no boost leaks then which I know doesn’t mean anything since I took everything apart but I figured that probably wasn’t my issue, but I’ll do a leak test, and as far as the downpipe, it’s...

Yes when it first starts up it sits at about 1200 then drops down to 850 after about a minute or so and yes I still have the ac installed but i didn’t have the ac on when I drove it and I had the headlights on but no ac or anything like that.

Alright so after finally getting clutch in my car I took it for a drive, started great and was idling at 850, let it warm up then started driving, once the car got hot and I’d try to come to a stop then the car just dies, I can start it right back up and if I’m holding the gas then it’ll stay on...