i took out my t-case the other day and have been driving arounf in FWD mode until i get the case fixed. theres just one thing, when i drive the car throught 1st and 2nd it feels like theres is hardly any power. it feels like its half in gear and neutral. i have to give it small amounts of gas...
I can't tune but I do have a tuner in mind that is very geed. This motor is going to be out together right and fine tuned before it hits the streets, I don't to worry about rebuilding a fresh motor.
Well im going back to DSMs cause im getting board of a LS1. I need some help building up a motor from the ground up. I want to build a 4G63 6-bolt with aftermarket internals and a pretty beefy head. I want to hit the 400 - 450hp range and have the car be some what streetable. Im mainly...
i just got the car back from the shop with a new 1st gen head on the 2nd gen block. the car has been cutting out real bad and i think its the injectors. i stuck a screwdriver up to all the injectors to listen to them and the are tick real loud, its so loud that i can hear them from under the...
there is three months out of the 90 car that the rods are bigger. sep., oct., nov. of 89 are the months that the rods are bigger. you can check at the dealership and the part numbers are different, same w/ the 95 pistons they are a different part number than the rest.
just bought my new project, 88 conquest. i am putting a 6-bolt monster block in it and i have a couple of questions.1. how hard is it to come across the 90 big rods, i know they where only made for three months but i do not know what three months they were. where can i find them?2...
what??? are you serious, you have to take off the part of the transmission to get the t-case off. i dont thinks so. i have taken my ccar to two different shops and the way i took mine off is the same way they take it off, just unbolt the 5 bolts and slip off the t-case.
dude it should not be that hard, after you pry it loose a little bit the only thing stoping it is the splines. but it should still come right off. you might have something broke in there.
i took out my t-case the other day and have been driving arounf in FWD mode until i get the case fixed. theres just one thing, when i drive the car throught 1st and 2nd it feels like theres is hardly any power. it feels like its half in gear and neutral. i have to give it small amounts of gas...
did you take the down pipe off, thats makes for easier removal. there are 5 bolts (4 long and 1 short) to take out, and you have to pry the t-case off with a screw driver or something b/c it rest on dow pins. after you pry it off it should come right off of the drive shaft. its a pretty...
what would jappen if you took the stock bushings out of the car. see i dont have any in my car, and the car shifts like a dream but its still too far. i like the pacestter because its really short and i have used once and it shifted good in another car. i ike the b+m but i dont think its...
that makes sinse i was not around when the rear diff was done i just assumed that it was from an eclipse, anyways i am not worried about it being street legal, this is a drag car. it will run in the comp 4 FI classes. there is still a lot of designing left to do i still dont know exactly how...
i can get a 6-bolt cheaper, i have 4 at my despense for only $400 with trannys, it the fix. i want to be able to do something none else has done. plus its not evan my motor, i only have 40k on the stock motor. and 6-blots arent that hard to do, we got a couple of 2G that have them done and it...
alright heres a good one for ya.me and my roomate are building a hybrid civic, but with a 6-bolt.we are taking a '90 civic hatch and making it a mid engine RWD track car that will be street legal. the car is red and the chasis has been tubed out, front andd rear suspesion already done...
a friend of mine has a 95 tsi FWD. a few days he pulled into his shop and pushed the clutch in and the motor just died. we got it on a lift and saw that our temporary pressure plate bearing broke which caused crankwalk and broke the crankshaft anglesensor (that we know of).we are currently...
i have a ported and cliped 14b with many other basic bolt ons and fuel delivery.at 16psi, 93 octane, and interior ran a 13.5
i am hoping to be unusuall and get this turbo in the mid 12's
get a bleeder valve for a boost controller - $10thats all that should really do it for a stock wrx, they arent very good track cars. the six speed M/T with short gears causes them to be shifting more than gassing. with the t-25 you should run about 16 psi, but make sure you have a boost...
i figured out what was wrong on mine, it had no friggin horn the idiot who had it before me took it off when he put the FMIC.but you should check your fuse relay they go out a lot
i have an old school afc (turn dial style). was wanting to know some basic settings.im in a 95 gsx w/ 14b ported turbo, spearco FMIC
plugs and wires
bigger fuel pump w/stock injectors
and all your basic bolt ons
the A/F shows belated info, it never reads current info.the EGT shows exact current data, and if you know how to read the gause you can also tell if you are running lean or rich. it depends on how well you know your car.
ok jsut got the car and have been fixing it all up. and for some reason the horn doesnt seem to work. i have replaced the horn and the relay fuse i was wondering if there was another horn somewhere else, because my alarm went off last night and it was using the staock horn. also i can here a...
its probably your wastegate, if you are running a certian amount of pounds and then when you get to higher rpm's it spike to more pounds thats called boost creap which means your wastegate is bad. if you want a cheap affective upgrade buy a 14b, port it, and put a small 16g clip that is a bad...