I’ll probably get blasted for this but I decided to go the arp recommendation and run their sequence, I can report that I haven’t had any issues at 30psi. This is with Hks stopper mls, copper spray and new L19 torqued to 105. head was resurfaced but block was only checked for straightness and...

Yes thanks again mate 🙏

Bit of an update, the timing seems to be much much better. My car fires up right away instead of a lot of turning over and idle sounds much healthier. I’ve yet to take her for a spin yet as I’ve noticed a rattle/knock at start up only. Dissapears after a few seconds and when revved.

Ahh man thanks again! It seems I got one from the bad batch. Pretty crappy I’ve had to re mark my cam gears and now my crank pulley as well 🤦‍♂️

Back with a couple Q’s. i found time to get the timing belt and everything back together but now I’m pulling back down because I’ve noticed my fluidampr crank pulley does not quite sit where it should against the casing tdc marks. Timing marks on the crank etc we’re all ligned up perfect. Could...

after a bit of reading I found they listed this 4g63 sequence around 2010 and still to this day have it listed on their website, surely if it was a mistake it would have been picked up by now? Be interesting to know if anyone has used this sequence with any I’ll effects

Curious to see if anyone has used the torque sequence recommended by arp? pros/cons? See pic attached.

Thanks man, that gives me confidence going in with my new setup. Want to try the Hks so will go the 1.6mm hg as my head thickness is running pretty low at 5.180

Great observation. I believe the issue wasn't caused by me. Prior to me removing the head, it successfully passed both compression and leak-down tests with flying colours. The reason for pulling the head was pushing coolant under high boost conditions, Which leak down couldn’t detect at 100psi...

There has definitely been contact with the valves and pistons, this could also be a piston to valve clearance issue. It was at 5.185 with oem mls and 1mm oversized ferrea valves before I had .005 shaved off so I’m under service limit now but looking to make it up with Hks 1.6mm stopper

My valves slapped the pistons when I ran it with the evo 4-9 timing marks however it seems like no valves bent, machine shop vac tested seal and it passed. Wondering if I should be testing for anything else?

Thanks again mate appreciate the help 🙏

Valves bend just by moving the cam gears back and forth a tooth or two? Here’s another pic though

That’s one tooth offThanks mate appreciate it, So I have marked the right hand gear as mentioned and I assume the left gear is fine as it looks to be pretty straight with everything now

Here’s the best 12 o’clock I can get

Hope this is right

If you need me to find better light let me know. Thanks.

Thanks for linking that! Great info. Basically the timing marks on my cams are definitely wrong. I have the cam tool installed but it would only install upside down which that alone tells me the cams are in wrong position. Hers a pic with the dowels at 12 and the outside marks aligned with the...

Hello, I'm currently reinstalling all the hardware into the cylinder head after having it resurfaced. While aligning the center cam gear marks, I noticed that the dowels aren't positioned at 12 o'clock. The timing marks on the Tomei cams were made by the previous owner, not by the factory. Is it...

Any idea what the thickness is on this? I realise I’m going to need to run a thicker gasket

Im at the minimum thickness at 5.185. Currently have 1mm oversized valves that protrude slightly. Since my previous blown head gasket was an OEM MLS, would it be safe to use a 1.3mm cut ring? Are there alternative methods to check valve-to-piston clearance without resorting to a clay test?

Update. Just picked up my head and here’s what my machinist had to say

Yes I have a accurate straight edge and I took a 0.002 feeler gauge to the surface with zero gaps across the head. however just looking at the surface now I’m not really happy with the small grooves around the fire ring, you can catch with a fingernail ever so slightly. So I’m going to bite the...

I began experiencing combustion gas entering the coolant system under wide-open throttle conditions, resulting in coolant overflowing without returning to the radiator when the engine cooled down. Consequently, I've opted to remove the cylinder head. Essentially, I'm considering switching from...

Thanks for all the responses, I changed out the radiator after testing everything else and looks to have solved the issue. Mishimoto in my opinion is no good

Sorry I should have added I’m running a DCS twin plate clutch. Almost always need to shim when running these

Chasing some sound advice on the position of my fork, should it be more towards the engine?. Just installed competition clutch fork with pivot, new throw out. Have shimmed the pivot also. Pic attached.

Nah man, still haven’t solved it. Since I last posted on here I have pressure tested the coolant system which held 18psi for 24 hours, I flushed the whole system including heater core, I ran a compression test and leak down which returned excellent numbers all around. I am stumpedI’m wondering...

I think I’ll run a few more heat cycles and see how she acts. My concern is I have pushed coolant, however it wasn’t bubbling or overheating and obviously the low coolant levels below the neck. Might just need to work more air out of the system. Will report back in a couple days.

Chasing down answers to what could be something small or possibly a HG job. Been reading for days on this topic but can’t find anything on here that fits my symptoms.No matter how much coolant I poor in to my radiator I cannot get it to settle at the top of filler neck, coolant 30mm below the...

To be honest I’m not 100% sure if the head is prepped for it or not. What are the requirements to run a 2ga cam trigger in a 6bolt head? What would be needed?

That looks to be the stock 6bolt CAS being used in both pics

I know this could be a long shot but worth trying. Long story short, I’m helping a friend with a 6bolt conversion in to his 1977 galant wagon. Engine has been mounted however the block sits very close to the firewall so we are looking at relocating the CAS to the cam gear. What we need to find...

swapped out the TPS and problem solved!! such a wank when the unit in it was also new. all good though, just happy to be boosting again. thanks for every ones help

the Link team has responded. looks to be an issue with the tps. my guess is grounding / wiring.

I hear ya, was running just fine a week ago on current tune. So the problem is within my system. I’m hoping the logs can tell a story

Yep and after just testing tps it looks to be functioning correctly. The one thing I haven’t done is pull the injectors. They are almost brand new ID1700 so I’m sceptical that those are the cause

It’s actually a new tps unit however I will test that today 🙏As you can see from that vid. The tps does seem to be jumping with throttle off. Will test now and see if I’m getting the same result with multimeter

Yea I’ve posted in the link forums. Yet to hear anything back

i should have mentioned, im using LINK G4X ecu please find attached a small clip of whats going on, if you need anything else let me know. thanks heaps

Hoping i can find some help here, as heading says, i'm experiencing hesitation / jerking under low and high rpm. i must admit i am a newbie when it comes to analysing Logs, so im hoping someone here will be able to point me in the right direction as i am all out of ideas.so far i have done...

This is the Build Thread for Evo 1 CD9A. Reply below.

Yea I’m pretty convinced that changing the feed barb on the hat to a 90 degree bulkhead is the way. I guess what I’m stuck on is whether it’s worth changing the return to bulk head also being that it’s very small compared to the 6an on the surge 🤷🏻‍♂️

Different hanger to mine but nice job! How you finding the 525? So you left the return barb stock? I was thinking of changing the feed and return barbs to 6an fittings as my surge intake and overflow are both 6an, surge feed to rail is 8an.

Trying to find the best fuel system route for me Evo 1. Currently has stock a fuel hanger with walbro 255 which I Will be leaving as is to become my lift pump for a duel pump surge in boot. My question is, do I bother modifying the stock hanger with AN fittings to the surge tank or Do I leave as...