The center bottom exhaust manifold stud is the only one that intersects an oil galley. Just put a little high-temp RTV on the head side of the stud.PCV valve is baffled inside the valve cover. It's possible for it to pull oil vapor sometimes but shouldn't be much of a "leak."
A Walbro255 is a known commodity and a direct drop-in replacement for reasonable price. Keep in mind, regardless what pump you run, even a stocker, a fuel pump rewire is highly recommended.
FWIW, I rewired my fuel pump decades ago, then recently installed an AFPR, then a WB255. After the 255, I...
Why not a 2.5" cat, and have a shop weld on flanges to fit your current exhaust?
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=19493&cat=1084&page=1This is the only 1g AWD cat-back I've seen lately:
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/HKS-Hi-Power-Exhaust-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-GSX-1990-94.html
The only difference between axles is ABS vs non-ABS. The 2g GST and Spyder (turbo) are the same part numbers.
Non-ABS = MR165588 (alt MR430502), With ABS = MR165590 (alt MR430504)
Likely a broken trace due to the cap leakage/corrosion. Unless you are versed at PCB repair, your best bet is to send it to ECMTuning for service.Edit: is R107 missing and is that a broken trace leading up to it?
You definitely need it socketed since you already have an EPROM.
The capacitors look original to me. If they are or if you are uncertain, request the repair service too. Tell them you need capacitor replacement.
I'd suggest replacing everything on the front case to ensure your fresh timing belt doesn't get oily. Keep in mind to remove the front case it requires that you remove the oil pan so you can remove the oil pickup tube to free the oil pump. You need the balance shaft seal (if you haven't deleted...
This stud that goes into the head. The threads go all the way through the head casting and into the crank case/oil return passage. I usually put some high temp RTV on the head-side of the stud.
The bottom center exhaust manifold stud is open to an oil galley. Did you put some sort of sealant on the stud? I also see in your second picture, the dipstick isn't seated and it's possible for it to spray oil on the manifold if you PCV/CC breather isn't sufficient.Unrelated to your original...
Yikes! So this happened today and I lost 90% of the pedal. I was fortunate to be on 25mph streets with no traffic. Time for some new brake lines all the way around (and probably some new rear struts too).
I ended up with a Glow Shift dual A-pillar gauge pod. In an attempt to preserve my OEM A-pillar trim, I used double sided 3M tape. That worked great with a single gauge pod for more than a decade. So I did the same for my dual pod, but it never really "stuck" right. Now that temperatures are...
Swap the c-clip from the old axle if you still have it. I had to do that with a new duracrap axle. The new c-clip was far to rigid to go in, and I feared that I'd never get it back out if I forced it.
I had a similar issue (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-intermittent-starter-issue.544123/#post-153891021). Ended up removing the starter, disassembling it, degreased/cleaned it really well, and re-greased it. Works better than new now.
STOP running the engine and make 100% sure the mechanical timing is correct and balance shafts are in phase (if not deleted). The timing belt can slip a tooth, run like garbage, but still be salvageable.A leak between the throttle body and intake runners won't cause low idle. It causes high...
A magnet won't pickup aluminum bearing. Instead cut open your oil filter and drain/inspect the oil.I'm not able to hear it but HLAs or a loose timing belt tensioner can also tick.
Do you have a check engine light?
Sounds like power transistor to me, but you said you already swapped that. Did you check for corrosion in the connector when you swapped it?
Might be worth looking into the coil pack too.
Agree on it being the alternator.
Start the engine and put a volt meter across the battery terminals. You should see between 13 and 14 volts. Any more or less and your alternator is not charging properly.
Unplugging the MAF puts the ECU into limp mode and is no longer capable of measuring airflow. Yes, it can make it seem to idle better but it will drastically reduce the performance and drive ability. Not sure about it dianosing mechanical vs electronic issue though.At 4000 rpm idle, you have...
A pivot ball shim is only good if the flywheel has been machined several times or the fulcrum is worn. Helps bring the geometry of fork back to centerline. Otherwise a shim should be avoided.
Ok, so you have no boost control?Maybe this has been mentioned already, but visually inspect that your wastegate actuator is connected to a boost source and its arm is attached to the wastegate arm.Going further, do a boost leak test and be sure to include the wastegate actuator. Watch for...
This ^^^ ebay NPR pistons. Comes with rings and wrist pins.
I did this exact process summer of 2021. 1g 6-bolt rods with 2g pistons in a 6-bolt block.
The most difficult part was finding a machine shop to machine the rods and mount the pistons. I had shops that insisted the rods be...
I'm looking for a valve cover (rocker cover) with "16 VALVE DOHC 2000" markings. No cracks and no stripped threads please. I'd prefer an OEM finish or at least one that's never been media blasted and a straight CC breather nipple. Will pay with PayPal or if local to the Denver area, cash.
There should be a ground from neg battery terminal to the firewall and another from neg terminal to the starter bolt. It looks like you're using the battery tiedown stud in the strut tower as a ground (I have no idea if that's OK, but looks questionable) and I can't tell where the yellow stripe...
What's your HP goal and what's the purpose of the car? This is the question you need to answer before any of your other questions can be answered.
I'd start with ECMLink first if you haven't already. That gives you the ability to tune a stock car and well beyond. From there you can upgrade each...
For an AEM x series, I outlined this in my build thread here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1991-tsi-awd.540276/post-153906342This is a 93 ECU, so not exactly the same as a 90 but should be pretty close.TLDR:
AEM Red/12v to pin #107, AEM black/ground to #106, AEM white/analog 0.5v to...
You have too much air bypassing the throttle plate. Could be multiple issues. Your throttle plate is open (cable too tight, binding up, stop set too high) and/or you have a massive vacuum/boost leak somewhere between the throttlebody and the head (check your BISS, PCV line, BOV line, brake...
Decel grumble...pretty common in DSMs.
Loose pre-loads (anywhere from the tranny to the rear-end) can cause the noise. Especially in the rear-end. An unsprung clutch disk can also make the noise more noticeable.
Check your fluid levels too (tranny/xfer/rear-end). I notice the noise more if the...
Show car? :sneaky: I want to see more pics!It's common to notice better idle conditions when unplugging the MAF if you have other underlying issues that affect the idle. Unplugging the MAF just puts it into limp mode. The very fact that it changes the behavior when unplugged sounds *to me*...
Do you have a check engine light?
You said you looked for boost leaks, but did you perform a proper boost leak test? Visual inspection is one thing, but many leaks cannot be easily detected by sight alone. Also make sure you don't have any open lines between the MAF and turbo.
How well has...