I once had an issue of my car running, but not revving past about 2500RPM. Turned out that I forgot to plug in the TPS.As others have suggested, always check mechanical timing and ignition timing to ensure they are at base settings.

That's good info. I do in fact run the Wix 51381 filter as well. I get them at a local O'Rielly store. I have always used the larger filter, as in my mind, it has more filter surface area. I had no idea about the gasket or the opening pressure. This might be something to look into in the future.

I did try a mechanical gauge at one time, but I got similar readings as the electrical gauge. I was using a cheap gauge, so I didn't trust it nearly as much, but I used it to try and confirm my readings. I may try again at some point, but I'm satisfied with what I'm seeing now. I will likely...

My oil temp gauge does not show 140, its lowest reading, when I collected this data. My coolant temps are around 200. My oil temp sensor is located in the port leading out to the oil cooler. My cooler is a larger than OEM unit. My oil pressure sensor was relocated from the above pic and swapped...

I installed a new sensor. I'm still not happy with the number I'm seeing at idle, but it never goes below 10psi when warm. I haven't gotten the oil temps up to even read on my gauge (140*), but I'm not seeing any odd numbers either. Cold idle pressure was much higher in the 85psi+ range and...

Curiouser and curiouser. Before taking the car out to test things again, I went ahead and swapped the oil feed line to the sensor with the one to the turbo. (Opposite of this pic. Ignore the third sensor. That's an oil temp sensor in the outlet to the oil cooler)While driving and the car was...

Lots of info to respond to, but here it goes.I put a shim inside of the pressure relief valve "cap". I was attempting to increase pressure, not reduce it by adding a thicker crush washer. My EVO3 had a 1mm crush washer while the 2G unit had a 1.24mm unit. I stayed with the 1mm unit to keep...

This where I stand now: I measured both my EVO3 and 2G oil pressure valves and all of the parts. There are small, but measurable differences between them. In some cases almost 1mm. The crush washer itself was .24mm different. I looked back at Jafro's numbers and mine aren't quite the same. This...

I just looked at my stock 2G unit, and the plunger is more obscured than this pic of the EVO3 unit. I can't find any pics of it without porting, so I can't confirm how much was taken off. Looking at others' pics, it doesn't seem like I went any further than anyone else. I'll try a shim to see...

That was my thinking as well. It would be pretty easy to "shim" the spring and preload it so it takes more pressure to open it. So if the issue is the pressure relief valve, then the preload would increase idle pressure. (low flow pressure) At least that's my understanding. I'll have to look...

I pulled the pressure relief valve. Nothing seems out of the ordinary. Measurements to a stock 2G unit seem the same.I did port the EVO3 unit, but I only went wider, not longer. I don't think this would affect idle pressure much, but by going wider it should reduce pressure at all RPMs. I...

I wasn't aware this was an issue. It seems to only affect warm idle pressure. Does the thermostat have anything to do with this? I'll have to dig around to see what info I can find on the relief valve unless someone has good info handy.

This is a 2G 7 bolt with a 1G head and CAS. The trigger plate is facing the correct direction. The issue has been resolved, but I still don't like how the timing marks are off with the Fluidampr. I might swap on a stock unit just to see if the marks are the same.

The BSE has been on the car since it was "new". I did a basic rebuild before putting it in the car. It now has about 23k miles. The low oil pressure showed up about 2 years ago.Yes, the turbo oil feed. I was going to check that too. Obviously it's difficult checking on a hot engine, but I...

I get that there might be some differences in deck height, but the belt itself should compensate for variations. The crank mark on the block lines up fine, it's the pulley mark that seems off.

Lots of great info from everyone! I'll check out that Kiggly article.As far as oil temps, I do have an oil temperature gauge. I put it inline with my oil cooler since I couldn't find any good info on the EVO3 housing. I understand the best location is in the pan, but I didn't want to put a...

Honestly I didn't bother since they old bearings were good (with some grovving from junk). I guess if they are too lose they could cause low oil pressure. I can't imagine they would ever be that far out to still have zero pressure with 20W50. If I decide to pull the pan again, I'll measure them...

I guess I wasn't clear. The Fluidampr has timing marks 180* apart. With the pulley keyed on the crank, one set is about 5* advanced. I don't see a way to use the other set. I assume it's for EVOs or something that has a different key or timing setup.I get the cam sprokets. This is good info...

Update. You can most definitely remove the 2G oil squirters without removing the head. Careful work with a slide hammer on the top of the squirters can drive them out. Be very cautious of the bearing surfaces, as the slide hammer can jump around and bang into things.All that being said, my oil...

Double check yours. This is just how mine lines up. I have a lot of vairables in my build. I looked at it from every angle to see if I was doing something wrong or if there was another way to set it up. There are timing marks 180* from these as well. Not sure why.

I discovered my mistake. Despite using a cam gear alignment tool, it's not fool proof. It would put the intake at advance and exhaust at retard by at least a tooth. I'm not sure what this means at the crank, but obviously it doesn't run right like this 😂The crank was lined up, and that's what...

Thanks for the input. I will triple check those things, but none of that changed between installs.The CAS was never removed, so it should have stayed in time. Also, if it was 180 out, it shouldn't run at all. I'll still check it along with checking the mechanical timing again.The TPS should...

I know there are a million of these types of posts, but I'm not finding my issue. Here's the scenario:I pulled my engine to replace the bearings and oil squirters due to low oil pressure at idle. The bearings weren't that bad, but I replaced them anyway since they had to come out to do the oil...

I was able to remove them with some careful work using a slide hammer. There is definite wear on the bearings and a few light grooves from junk passing through. The cank is fine and only needs a polish. I'm just going to replace them with stock squirters since the alternative seems cost...

It's 4G63 powered, but not a DSM. I determined my low oil pressure was due to the 2G piston oil squirters, so I'm replacing them without removing the head. Some careful work with a slide hammer and the right attachement, and they come right out. I'm hoping to order parts during a Black Friday...

Thanks for the pics. I'm aware of what they look like and how they behave, but it's nice to have some quality images of them. I am mostly interested in trying to use EVO/6-bolt squirters and what that entails. At this point, I'm not seeing any advantages to doing all of the block work. I'm going...

What method are you using to plug the holes in the 7-bolt. I've only seen one method of tapping the hold and using a small allen head threaded rod to plug it. I'm wondering if there is a less invasive method. I might see if I can get the squirters out without removing the head. If I can, then...

What bearing trick are you talking about? Is this where you chamfer the crank itself?Removing the stock oil squirters isn't an issue other than I would need to disassemble the entire engine to remove them. With one failure, I don't want this repeated on a higher end build. That's essentially...

No replies yet? I know there have been a ton of people to do this. I assume it's all been done by shops that have experience with the 4G63 so no one thought to document it. I don't think I will have that luxury, and DSM specific shops are becoming more rare. Any help in this area would be...

I appreciate the input. I do road race the car (HPDE) so the added cooling has been proven beneficial in my research. And although splash oiling of the wrist pins might be enough, I like the added security of more direct oiling from the squirters.I'm sure no squirters is just fine for drag...

I'm sure there must be info out there on this, but I'm not finding anything.(this is a 4G93 block shown btw)I recently discovered my 7 bolt stock oil squirters are stuck open which means it's time for a rebuild. Rather than build that block, I figured I would just build a spare split thrust...

I once forgot to hook up my TPS sensor and it wouldn't rev past 2500rpm I think. Wires get old and brittle over time, so I would look at wiring first. It could also be a MAF issue. My guess either way is wiring. Do what @pauleyman suggested and jiggle some wires.

I'm actually running EVO9 parts in my 95 block and they are a straight swap. Make sure you put them in correctly with the "intake" side on the DSM exhaust side due to the slightly offset wrist pin location. The dot on the top of the piston goes to the timing side.There really aren't any...

Looks like this just turned into a longer term documentation of how to fix this. After working on my spare block, I came to the conclusion that the head must be off and pistons removed to do this. I'm not sure what I was thinking before that made me believe it was anything less.On the plus...

Thanks for the feedback. My old oil pump seemed fine, but it was worth a shot while I was in there. The new pump didn't do anything positive.My pressure gauge is from Speedhut. I've seen some issues with their older stuff, but I'm not getting the issue others have complained about. I might...

I've been seeing low oil pressure at idle for some time now. By low, I mean Zero at times when warm at idle. I've had sparkles, but no flakes in my oil for about 2 years, but I haven't really had any issues. Thinking I may have a worn oil pump, I swapped that out this spring when I did a new RWD...

Nice job. Based on my own experience, you'll likely want to limit your power to under 300hp. That sounds low for DSM standards, but you'll blow the tires off of that thing without even trying. I recently "detuned" my car to keep it managable until I can squeeze a wider tire under it. 300whp in a...

It's tough to say. I can try to do some pulls soon to get that data. I'd say I have full boost by 3k rpm, but that's dependant on gearing, load, and such. I'll try some 3rd gear pulls from low rpm to see what happens. I need more logs to send to get tuning help anyway.

It's not that bad. I do have the small issue of hard shifting into 2nd when it's cold. I'm sure it's mostly age and mileage, but none of it is that bad. I would like to try another transmission just to see if mine is that bad. I have no frame of reference for most of the things I have. I do...

I finally got everything back together and took it out for my first autocross event in over 8 months. The FP turbo is great and I just need more confidence when not going straight. The previous turbo was not easy to control. The FP 68HTA v3 is very linear even though boost comes on quick. I'm...

I decided to just pull the whole motor today. I had some low oil pressure issues I wanted to investigate. My leads didn't pan out, but I did find the source of my oil leak.I thought it might be due to my drain line. It's not the best routing, but I need to snake around the motor mount a bit...

I don't think I can use the bolts in the STM kit, but I ordered it anyway. Shipping is more than the parts, but I love STM and they always have fast shipping and great customer support.

I've elimnated those pan bolts by welding a -4 fitting on. Those have been trouble in the past.I tried adding RTV after I initially found the leak, but it actually seems worse now. I'll try again and add sealant the the bolts as suggested. 🤞🏼

My previous turbo was a Garrett hybrid. It had a Mitsu turbine housing, ball bearing CHRA, and Garrett wheels. The best info I can find is that it was a GT2971R and was sold by Slowboy Racing as a GT11. I did find this info on ExtremePSI that shows the return hole and bolt spacing should be the...

I recently installed a FP 68HTA v3 turbo to replace my Garrett hybrid unit. I reused the oil drain outlet fitting as it seemed to fit exactly the same. Of course I used a new gasket, but I've developed quite the oil leak from this area. The bolt spacing seems the same and the -10AN drain line...

When I started this swap back around 2005, the R154 was much more accessable. Ironically, I paid $510 (Datsun 510) for the trans with shipping. Now T56, TKX, TR6060, and many others are common and reasonably priced. I don't do drag racing, so any auto trans is out for me.

I wanted to try and keep this thread about 4G63 specific things since this is a DSM site, but I thought I'd share a few more things about the car.In case you're not up on your 4g63 RWD swaps, there are several transmissions to choose from, including some Mitsu specific units from the Mighty...

I got the car out this weekend for some logs. It runs great, but I might have some boost creep. It is much more responsive than the other unit I had, which is exactly what I'm looking for. I can build about 5psi of boost in 5th gear between 2500-2800rpm. There's not real reason to do that, I...

I was referring to aftermarket options. Since no one sells aftermarket DSM side mounts, I thought something like this would be a possible option. @Bigmike4g63t just posted about Z32 cores. I think this is a good option for staying side mount.

You can still either make a SMIC or buy one from another chassis. Z32, 3000GT, etc. use similarly sized cores with aftermarket support. If you have fabrication skills or know of someone who does, you can likely buy an appropriate core and have one made.