Thanks for info. I have the Haynes but it's not as proper as the factory manual. I do all my own work except timing- even the clutch job was fun and not too difficult. Timing still makes me nervous but I'm gonna have to do it myself. Just need to take my time

Here it is, there is no actual gouge or pit interestingly. Flat surface all the way across. I'll check the two short oil pan bolts as well

I noticed that too. That's not normal? There's no groove and my covers are off so shouldn't be hitting anything... maybe it was when I had the covers on last year?

A shop did the timing install a year and a half ago, this morning I turned the cams to TDC and it adjusted and drove around fine. Tension looks good for now... but when it sits overnight it slacks... not sure what to think

I started the car for the first time in a year yesterday. While it had been sitting previously, the timing belt looked very slack. Turned it to top dead center on the cam gears and the tension adjusted automatically. But after I started it yesterday and let it sit overnight, looks slack again...

Sent out my stock turbo for rebuild, he threw in a good condition 18g for 100 bucks! Comes with turbo lines and manifold. Ready to bolt up.This would be my first time modifying. I have much to learn about boost and its requirements. Engine is STOCK. Only modifications to my 97 GST is an ACT...

Update! Took off the intake. Turbo has major major shaft play, turbine is loose. Hopefully bits of metal didn't go into the engine. Will drain the oil and see.

Sounds like it's coming from the exhaust manifold / turbo area... I'm gonna pull out the intake after work and check for shaft play

Referring to the grinding and intermittent loud shhhttt noise (at the beginning of starting and at the end.)Posted a new one

Dropped a friend at work and this happened suddenly. Sounds like it's in the valvetrain... has oil and coolant, grinding noise under boost :|Car starts and runs fine, makes an intermittent rough scraping sound at idle and while driving every 3 seconds. Like sheet metal scraping quickly- like...

Konig Hypergram 17x8, Toyo Extensa tires

SOLVED. I'm young and impatient, just needed more bleeding.

Installed oem power steering rack, fluid in the reservoir foams and overflows when turning the wheel. Leaving the engine running and pouring in more fluid just gets sucked up fast. No leaks and all lines are tight.Any ideas? Whenever I try to bleed the system the reservoir just foams and...

Did you test the alternator directly? Google searching about testing an alternator only suggests testing at the battery and determining the status of the alternator via appropriate voltageBattery 12 volts ignition off. Normal... 14 volts when running... everything checks out there...

Crap. Didn't even check there I'm hoping I find something there. Will check when I'm off workHot when engine is running only. Ignition on only does not create any problems

Thanks for reply! Battery is all good there, and I thought it could be but it occurs when the hood is openEngine too

Checked those out while i was in there! Nope, and they test fine. Beep beep

Forgive me, vigorous testing shows that the firewall ground is ok. Grounds good. The whole positive wire from batt to fuse box gets hot, therefore only half the terminal gets hot before the heat spreads. Other positive wire is normal...

Definitely seems ground related! All grounds are hooked up like they always were but can't seem to find the issue

After I did motor mounts! Been chasing this for 2 weeks. I have tried to do some electrical research but am very inexperienced with electricity! Only very basics known, I've been an apprentice tech and haven't touched much electrical issues so this could be a great start to learn.-Battery...

When I did them 3k miles ago I gapped them at .28

Copper NGKs with 91 premium, fresh NGK wires

Tested it thru a hose that connects to the intake manifold and plugged the upper intercooler pipe.Sorry, first time actually doing a boost leak test but I assumed that would be enough to find leaks thru that area first off. Thinking about buying an actual tester that connects to the turbo...

Stock 97 GST, Have been chasing this code for little over a week, let me give some backstory.- Only modification is a clutch job I did recently with ACT 2100 and ACT streetlight flywheel.- Fresh NGK plugs and wires with less than 5k miles.- Proper timing done 5k miles ago.- Boost leak...

Yeah, wish I could've but was on a time crunch. Should've done it

Yes absolutely, new ACT PP and OEM TOB

Been a while! Hey, did my first clutch job and everything went well. Clutch is still a little rough and smells when you gun it, still slipping a little.Could a cracked flywheel be the culprit? I did not resurface the flywheel as planned, by the time I finished the clutch in my shop, the other...

Went to dealership and picked up OEM Mitsubishi MTF tranny fluid, but got 75w-80 instead of 75w-85. Damn it. Can I still use 75w-80?

Good advice. Thanks!A lot of my parts wishlist that may not be on the list are supporting mods for bigger turboI have it envisioned in a certain street set up, would never mod it for what other people think of it

Thank you. I should update it as it's changed a little lol. Going Konis instead of coilovers and keeping it pretty basic, turbo will be the last thing I add

Great, thank you! I've heard lots of great things about ACT, I used to hear about it all over the place. Going to go with the ACT 2100 and wanted to replace flywheel since it's a long term project for peace of mind, but probably no reason it can't be machined? Planning on replacing some seals...

Thanks. What do you think about what the other guy mentioned in my post about getting OEM because it'll take lots of time to get HP? They think it's buying parts I don't need but but seem to agree with both sides of this - doing it right once vs. Not really needing it for a while since it takes...

Thanks

Slipping in 4th, time to replace before it gets worse!Stock 2G GS-T, but like every starry-eyed dsmer I have higher HP goals in the future (long term project) of up to 300, no more than thatWant to get a ACT 2100 since I can just throw in an upgraded clutch while I'm there and not do it...

It's definitely slipping in 4th pretty bad

First time clutch job too! With future goals in mind, should I just upgrade now or is it too much for stock components? I do have pretty new master and slave cylinders if that is worth mentioning.Also seen in lots of old threads and other sites not to use Fidanza/other aluminum flywheels...

Yeah was planning on letting the axles hang lol. Thanks!Yeah was planning on letting the axles hang lol. Thanks!

Are you familiar with jafro's vids? Spending my day off watching him do his! Doesn't seem too bad but will take me a while. Im pretty excited to do it. Experience and knowledge is very valuable

Yep, REALLY want to do the clutch myself! Even if it takes days! I have a haynes but quickly learned it's not very effective... leaves a lot out. I definitely have the rewarding feeling of doing it myself and I enjoy working and learning on this one. No other car makes me feel the way I do about...

Saw his trans removal, holy hell that's a lot to remove the trans. Not too bad though might take me more than a day for the entire process clutch included lol. Great time to replace the rear main seal too :thumb:

Thanks! I've done a lot but the welding and timing is where I draw the line. Goal is to definitely do as much as I can myself and learn more as I go too.. Don't you think I should just tackle clutch myself? Could take me a few days but chrisfix makes it look easy! Just need some bread for that...

Had my DSM for only 4 months. Paid for a timing job, pulleys and all, water pump few weeks ago. Not comfortable enough to do that myself and risk bending valves. Good price, 1 grand flat. Various other things like tires and a new cat for smog ($700 😞) exhaust leak fix, and $800 behind tags, and...

Someday! Although that old skool Starlet will keep him busy! 😆 appreciate all the help

Uninteresting thread. Wanted to thank anyone who's helped me greenhorn ass on these threads! If you are familiar with my user.profile you know who u are. Thank you for helping me learn and succeed.I'm not new to cars or driving jobs but my experience with hands on working and diagnosing is a...

Just got to work so can't at the moment but surface of belt is all good... just paranoid. Didn't have a problem with old bolt locations but they were wrong location according to manual!

The flat surface of the belt?

Because I'm not familiar with the difference between the pans, realized too late, I thought the flange on the mine was also flatWere those screws chewing up the belt? Does this look normal? New belt as of last week

Feel like such a nerd. Shit took me good part of the day only to find jackass sold me the wrong pan. It was for a 6 bolt but he advertised it on Miller imports as a 2g 4G63 pan. :f-u: My fault too for not knowing. Also took me way longer than I thought, feeling like a dork :ohdamn: completely...

Also this angle is with top of my head facing the rear of the car, not looking at oil pan from the front. Still correct? Really paranoid lol