Sooo what length are these M5 bolts? Should put washers right?

We call that the Caitlyn Jenner

I’m surprised you didn’t check that beforehand. I think I have to do the same myself. What sketchy ideas do you have in mind? Cause I’m all for it LOLEdit: I did find this...

Awesome man finally. Must feel so good

Put in an authentic GM 3 bar and took it out for a drive. For some reason when leaving 1st it’ll just bog out if I try to give it gas. If I don’t and let it limp on its own it’ll eventually get going and once moving it’s fine. Noticed I cracked my tps from over tightening the bolts so I’ll have...

Switched to a Innovate MTX-L Plus and put an actual GM brand 3 bar map sensor (12223861). I haven't driven the car yet but it seems much betterFirst log is just idle and second it giving some revs in neutral

VQ30s are bulletproof

Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys

It actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.Is your switchpoint 2.35v?I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wires

I’m just an idiot and was trying to route it like my UEGO that had 3x the cable length. Finished the install for the most part just have to put the ground to the ECU now

Replacing my UEGO and this damn harness between the wbo2 and gauge is only like 6ft long 😒 Can I just cut and extend?

Try 250ish. I use a heat gun.

Or just sell them to me..

The usual

You and @Justin DuBois should have a smoke off

Bronze would look good. Gold might look better.I’d probably go silver personally.

Changed the charging port on my iPhone 11 which was wayyy overdue. Was driving me mad trying to get it to charge these last couple days. 1 hour of my time and $20

Using p/n 30-4110. I’ve read there are better widebands for this but this is what’s on the car0-1v can be sent to the ecu but default setting is 0-5v. Does ecmlink allow the 0-5v when you enable narrowband simulation? Or does it still need 0-1v regardless?Is 15 seconds enough of a startup...

Ignore the rust 😩 Thinking about getting some eastwood rust encapsulator plus to handle that

Looks like a knockoff regulator. Be careful

Nah I just use them to ride around lmao

Mounted my battery finally. Wish I had bought a rivnut tool years ago. Waiting on some 0 gauge cable to come

Don’t have to relocate the alternator or delete the power steering if done like this

Paint or wrap? Looks great

Bumper risers done alone with the bumper releases and the support bracketTook it up the block to get $40 of 93. This thing runs good when it wants to it’s so annoying

Check the PTU harness I had a wire that was 99% broken and hanging on by a thread. Give them a slight tug make sure they’re solidI would go over your CAS wiring that you did as well. I don’t like soldering I prefer to use non insulated butt connectors and shrink tubing

97 Nissan Maxima

I’d rather not have to go through the trouble of replacing my handles 19 timesLove these aluminum ones

Changed the oil and fixed a tiny leak I had at the turbo drain. Dudes used RTV instead of the gasket at the oil pan 🤦🏽‍♂️ They had the fitting upside down tooAlso mounted the quick release bumper brackets. I’ll drill the bumper tomorrow waiting on HEF bumper risers to come in

I wonder if you have leftover water that’s steaming off as you drive it and you only see it at idle of course because the car isn’t moving.Are you driving it with the possible alternator issue still there?

I have a Radium damper on another car that mounts the same way

It is a GM style 4 barI can try to get AirflowPerRev lower but the car is cammed I don’t think I can get it to .25Starter is on a push button so no KeyStart I guess. I restarted it twice I think in that first log

Here are a couple more logsFirst is 100% cold start again it does the surge thing a few timesSecond is once it leveled out back to normal-ish idleThird is me lowering the deadtime to try to get the STFT to 0. Tried adjusting global to get LTFT Lo to 0 also but doesn't seem to

It was 100% cold start. It’s the only time it does it. I’ll have to take more logs todayMy MAP sensor isn’t an Omni I got it from Auber Instruments but wasn’t sure how to set it up so selected that. Maybe you can help there based on this info I had previously got from themWbo2 was wired in...

In my DJ Khaled voice “another one” on the firewall

Threw on the emblem and gave the bumper a little bs buff to get some of the scratches off

Not sure if I'm having this issue because my wbo2 settings are incorrect (what shows in link vs what the gauge reads are not exactly the same (link shows richer)) or if my nbo2 settings are incorrect (switch point I went off the instructions but not sure about delay for the front o2). I also...

I enjoyed the second vidNote to self: never attempt a chassis swap

Not well done, clean or impressive but whatever lol

If you have a spare oil dipstick, this is the mod for you. Buddy gave this 2g one to me for free but I have a 6 bolt so I couldn’t use it. I had the idea to simply cut off the end and then took off any sharp edges with a dremel and a flap wheel.I park my car outside and dirt, leaves, debris...

Wired the power steering switch, removed bumper brackets in prep for HEF bumper risers and cut a hole in the bumper for my side exit and mounted it. I have the emblem but no tape 🤦🏽‍♂️

I meant the LED boards lol

If not, those would look nice on my car 😬

Sucks I can’t get a good picture of them because of the reflection but they look badass in person

There are some for sale on FB

Sounds like a situation I’d avoid..Find a GS-T that’s already running/driving that you like and go buy it. Sell yours first if you have to