Ah, you’ve got a point there. Did it randomly happen, or did you change anything recently that may be related to the issue?As Gary mentioned, you may be looking for a loose connection or broken/frayed ground wire.

Actually, it was the final straw with the wiring that prompted me to just pull the whole control harness and go standalone ECU lol That way if anything like it happens again, all the major functions are isolated from everything else.That said, I have since replaced the alternator fuse, and...

I didn’t take a photo from an angle that would show that before dropping it back in the tank lol I did have fitment issues at first, but DSMThunder’s (on YT) method with the Toyota seal worked like a charm. Nice and snug without having to mod the whole hanging unit.

Dropped by the Toyota stealership for one of their fuel pump seals, and finished installing a Walbro 525. Wasn't as bad of an install as I was afraid it might be.

Thank you, sir!

Thank you!

Couldn’t get my alternator to charge after multiple failed setups. It was probably just bad. So I switched to a 200A MCR Single Wire. It involved lots of grinding, but I managed to fit it in the stock location nice and flush. Added a grounding strap, and it gets 14.5 volts consistently at idle...

Switched to a single wire MCR 200 amp alternator to remedy my voltage issues. After a good bit of grinding, gotta say it was absolutely worth it. At least so far lol

Yessir, you guessed right. I mention the ECU just as a note about the setup. I pulled the factory cluster, and I replaced the stock control harness with a custom harness that routes directly to the FT instead.I figured I'd run the alternator straight to the battery positive, but it doesn't...

Standalone folks, care to share your setup? What was the most effective way to get your alternator to charge without the stock charge light? FuelTech FT550 here.

Breakthrough!Depicted below is the stock trigger plate that I pulled out of the 1G CAS. You can apparently make do with this as long as you tape off one of the holes (I believe the smaller one). I actually first set up to try that, but I found the method kind of sketchy. That, and fellow...

Thanks! Fingers crossed

Turns out I was able to ditch the ISC for a PWC valve instead. Once I realized there was an adapter that could be used to mount it, I had no problem wiring it into the harness.The FuelTech ECU has a built-in compression test, which was a pleasant surprise I was previously unaware of. I ran it...

Oh, nice. That’s pretty neat.This is how I have mine set up for now. Pretty sure I’ve got it right. Screen hole to the manifold, other one to atmosphere.Still working out a couple things in the engine bay pertaining to my wiring harness, so it’s not all tidy quite yet. No problems...

@jdxnc, did you use a relay, or just go straight from the harness?

Yeah, I should have included that.Apparently Jason Drew has figured it out on his FT setup as well, though he took more of a custom approach that looks pretty good.

I'm actually on a FuelTech ECU with a custom harness. I talked to one of their technicians yesterday, and it turns out there is an adapter kit that I'm pretty sure is supposed to be mounted to the intake manifold. I'm linking it below, and I'll post a picture here when I figure out how it fits...

Along the way, I’ve come to realize just how motivating it can be just to make visual changes. Of course, everyone likes that. But between the big jobs, smaller projects like these really do put a smile on my face, and they motivate me to keep pushing forward.

After losing contact with the ECU, I was fed up with the wiring issues.This is a good time to mention that when I sent back the FuelTech ECU quite a while ago, it was originally to exchange the FT450 for an FT550. It was allegedly equipped to support the step-motor.When I gave up altogether...

I finally got brave enough again to deal with the rest of the wiring and properly replace the oil and boost gauges. I wanted them working before I introduced boost.Unfortunately, something happened beforehand. Despite my wife and I agreeing to always solder, I broke the rule and tried crimping...

Switching out the FIC 850cc low Z injectors for 1650cc high Z, I was able to properly scale fuel and figure out the rest of the tune. Considering it started months ago, the old injectors presumably failed at some point early on, despite me buying them new. The switch was a tricky job that was...

Nonetheless, another couple months went by and I basically gave up. I stopped trying altogether.But I did eventually decide to try calling around until I found a shop relatively close that might know these cars. I’d tried before, but to no avail.Then I got lucky. I sent off the car an hour...

Despite having grown rather comfortable with ECMLink, nothing I tried was working. After replacing my wideband, I became desperate for help, and found a couple tuners who were willing to check my logs until it became clear to them that something else was wrong.I had to stop for a little while...

My brother’s girlfriend caught wind of my predicament while he and I were talking, and it turned out that she was actually quite comfortable with wiring. She was an electrical engineering student, and offered to take a look despite not being into cars outside of supporting him.The two of them...

After a long while of scratching my head with the electrical issue, I began to entertain a new approach.What if I just replaced the whole OEM control harness? Better yet, what if I just pulled all the wiring, and put in a new harness going straight to a stand-alone ECU?Of course, it was...

Among other things, I actually spent weeks trying to replace axle shafts while trying to avoid reckoning with the electrical issues. I figured out the passenger side pretty quickly, but the driver’s side is what stumped me.I avoided posting on the forums to ask for help as long as I could, as...

Soon, the car did actually roll into the garage at my apartment. Something tricky though…It started up for the first time at the shop, running nice and strong. This was even before a proper tune, so we left it off for quite a while. However, one day it just wouldn’t start again. I was paranoid...

Finally, the engine came back, and it was game on.I did have to wait a while because the winter was rough for everyone, but the guys still had my back and let me help put everything together while it was in the shop.It was really cool seeing it evolve in real time. I’d owned a GS as my first...

I knew the motor was supposed to be gone for 4-6 weeks, so I took time focusing on collecting the other stuff I already knew we’d need.I refrained from wondering too much what to do about the sunspots, because it was already inevitable that this would be a big project. I stuck to what the guys...

I’m not very mechanically inclined. Though I’m grateful to have learned a lot since then, I do have good friends at a local shop who agreed to do the heavy lifting to get it “runnable” again. I love those guys.It all began with pulling the engine to be sent off for a full rebuild of the long...

Forgot I could do a build thread, so I’ll do a recap here lolWhen I first bought the car a couple years back, I knew it wasn’t running. Since it already had high miles, I took it as an opportunity to “reset” and try to reinforce some failure points for the future. That kicked off quite the...

Hey there,Anyone happen to be running a Honda B-Series remote IAC instead of the factory ISC? Any photos of your setup you wouldn’t mind sharing?

Spent a while hunting for the short circuit, but came up "short" lolDecided to take a break and start it up to see what would happen. Fuel pump still not priming, but after a couple attempts it came on. Everything looked good. Then I clicked the power windows and it killed that, the door...

Update:Not quite sure what was up with my tools before, but I was able to track down blown fuses at the interior junction box. Got back the gauges, then the power windows. Got my accessories back. Felt like a huge win.It seems my data link port may be a separate issue. Not sure if it went...

Replaced the ETACS ECU. No luck LOLOBDII is still getting power, but is unresponsive to the regular scan tool now as well. The gauge lights flicker. Still runs and drives fine. But then I went to turn on the AC, and the horn started blaring non-stop lolGoing to go back over the connectors...

Update: Checked all the connectors along the accessory harness. No dice. Meanwhile, I’ve driven the car a bit. I’ve noticed a couple things. The fuel gauge dwindled to zero, but didn’t rise at all since I last filled up. As of yesterday, ECMLink stopped responding on both my tablet and laptop...

I don't believe I have a turbo timer, but I'm glad you mention that because it gives me a really good idea of where to look. Going to take a look within the next couple of days, and I'll update if I come up with anything to show for it.

Alright, I'll check that out. Noticed there are no lights or sounds when I turn the key except for the wideband. Maybe there was some sort of surge that killed a few accessories independently.

Hey folks,Figured I might as well make a thread about this. I've been combing through the forums and the Electrical Factory Service Manual to assess an issue I'm having. I'm posting it here in case anyone has any productive input they'd like to share, or in case it may become useful in the...

I believe I had it on “AEM Wideband Gauge R1”

Yeah, I knew I was taking drastic measures to get it to even turn over once. I wanted to see what it would take. Not at all ideal, so I know something has got to be wrong.Plugs smell a bit of fuel. It'll still crank, but the real chugs are few and far between. Not getting enough of something...

10.01-01 is the one successful attempt on the SD setup. The one that ran super rich on the AEM UEGO Wideband.10.14-12 is today with the re-grounded PTU and FT Wideband (only mentioning since those are physical changes). They also follow the most recent adjustments by my tuner.Thanks for looking.

Replaced spark plugs, MAP sensor, wideband, battery, and today I re-grounded the PTU sensor. I've sealed any and all leaks. I've gone over the fuel tables, deadtime, ECU inputs, etc., so many consecutive times. I've had a couple tuners look at it remotely, and they've been very helpful. But of...

I’m troubleshooting, as I can’t get my car to start. It occurred to me that I haven’t thought to check the power transistor.Any experienced minds?Thanks.

Thanks folks,While I was at it, I realized that I forgot to mention I was trying to reach a bung further upstream, and I was thinking I had to go through the rear O2 opening.As it turns out, I found it was routed to a hole a few inches forward of the drivers seat. So I ended up opting for...

Installing a new wideband to replace an old AEM UEGO (35-8460) in the rear O2 location with a new FuelTech Wideband O2 Nano.Car’s got a cat-less downpipe, so the spot is almost directly under the driver’s seat. Naturally, I’ve opted to go the route of taking out the driver’s seat to do the...

Any tips for inserting the new axle shaft seal on the passenger side?2G GSX.Thanks!

Got it. Seriously guys, thanks for your help.