lean that sucker out!

we have all three on our car lot... i prefer the Duramax over the Cummins because the GM is a lot more comfortable and the fit and finish is much better... The Fords are plaqued with issues

I guess I should have elaborated my search a bit i was searching for a 2g specific instead...ty for the link gofer... as for the rest of you :shhh:

so theres an exhaust that i found for sale locally and was wondering what the differences are and if its worth modifying it... :D

An IC hose shouldn't come off all the time unless something is stressed to the point of not being able to stick onto the pipe... sounds like a rotten pipe or the contact point has no flange left to grab no matter how hard you tighten it... bad clamps?I just looked at your profile and noticed...

I'll be forty in July... whats the point of this thread exactly? i had a 71 duster in high school.... it was fast as hell, but nowhere near my 50 trim gsx..i miss 1.50 gallon gas!

Boost leak, vacuum leak, tired O2 sensor, tired engine are all things I would diagnose...I still need to replace my O2 its lazy and doesnt throw a CEL but the 15 mpg is killing my wallet, and I barely passed emissions with a stock exhaust...

its says "premium fuel only" for a reason on his dashboard... anything else, i.e. lower octane, e85, will lower the performance of your engine and may cause damage if the ECU can't compensate enough...

its obviously someones idea of a relay... id yank that piece out and rewire your pump correctly

Clean it up, grab some stock valves and have the head redone, or you can grab a rebuilt one from one of the vendors here...Did you ever find the problem that caused the piston to melt?

Holy rusty shock towers batman! Glad to hear you got the noise fixed!

I thought it was pretty funny and reminded me of when I bought my Talon... I figured a used car was cheaper to get me home then a plane ticket so I bought a bunch of straps hoping my Mt bike wouldn't suffer any damage...

sounds like someones messing with you.... theres no such thing as cops on your side... not for very long at least...

this game is incredible!! installed and ran it last night for five hrs... not a single glitch... the rally stages are brilliant!I just noticed how easy it is to play for those that don't play well, but you can change the difficulty on every race so it gives you a sense of satisfaction when you...

the original "DRIFT-CAR"!1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Turbo AWD

Make sure your machine shop at the very least hones your block out to each according piston...Don't turn the crank, its nitrated and turning eliminates this making the crank weak...Have the assembly balanced including your new flywheel or dampner if you are buying new ones...

It doesn't flow that much better and from what I've seen can be buggy translating a signal... I would just hack the stock MAF until you outrun it...

I put a 50 trim on a stock motor with 650's, 255HP, AFPR, SAFC and exhaust and ran it fine for two yrs... the only time i hurt the motor was when i pinched the return line of the cooler between the support and my FMIC... engine ran another yr until i pulled it and found out the crank was...

The nice thing is that you know how to listen! :hellyeah:

3k is a bit steep for a car with an oil leak that the owner doesn't want to fix...Have the car inspected and get an estimate, then negotiate the asking price with the cost of repair...I would also ask the owner about tuning so you aren't left without any understanding of how to take care of...

If you keep the N/T harness you'll be adding wires not swapping them with any turbo ECU....If you have the 90 Turbo ECU and grab a harness off a 91-94 you'll need to swap wires...If I were you I would just swap to a 90 harness and 90 ECU, in order to eliminate any wiring problem in the...

Are you on a budget?

Thats a great turbo, hang on to it and get your car tuned... A good investment would be to grab a good FMIC to get that turbo above 15 psi.... your 550cc's will be fine for the kind of power you want...I'm guessing you've gone through the clutch, and you have a good exhaust, ported O2, etc...

Any signs of the oil having coolant in it? Have you done a leak down test yet?

It was -20 outside and I had no tools to do the job... that's what a trans shop charges...

Go to IPT and price it out, make sure to include the transfer case though..I paid 1400 for a stock one.. maybe that will help you?

It'll take a ton of abuse, so long as its in good working order... Sounds to me like you need to do some maintenance to get you familiar with the car before you start building, you would be surprised how much abuse these cars will take...

It sure is! if your switch doesn't turn off its pretty easy to rebuild them, its usually just carbon that's inside the switch... Take it apart and use a pencil eraser... Just be careful not to break any tabs!

Well I can say that I have seen a reliable 750 HP from an Eagle/Scat rod combo (my friends car), but hes a machinist... Instead of buying a reciprocating assembly, I would consider finding yourself a machinist who is familiar with these engines, buy the parts and have the shop you choose...

I just did this yesterday and trust me, as soon as you get the window rolled up 3/4 (closer to 7/8 IMO), and you get all the screws out of the door panel (6), then remove the speaker, you'll see the problem...Its the first bracket closest to the front of the car... You won't need pictures...

Thats way to much overkill for your horsepower objective, a stock bottom end will handle 500-600 with good tuning...What are these sleeves you speak of? :hmm:

Sounds like some fire damaged your coil packs or a sensor, it may even be a melted hose or connector...They are pretty easy to diagnose and fix but can be frustrating especially after a fire... If it were me I would carefully inspect anything that may have been damaged by fire, and replace...

Wheres the return line and bolts? Are you going to bend the stock lines or get new ones? You're going to need a J-pipe as well...

id say its worth it, but i guarantee you'll be spending that much getting it to be a good reliable DD...

I've never had success recovering files using free software and the only software that i know of that works costs around $800...

Why do people take their cars to dealerships? I don't think i've ever heard a successful dealership experience... They either screw something up or they charge too much

wet sand with 2000 grit maybe about ten minutes a piece if they are really bad... then i use some cheap wax, maybe three applications...

If it's the car in your profile, No, and you're welcome...

Are you running a auto or turbo ECU? i would put some 450's in it and see if that helps

Id hold onto the car and just have the panel put on, then prep, paint, and profit

Sounds like a pretty shady deal... I say DIY...Just get a good used head and new timing belt and water pump, HG, etc... Take the head to a machine shop, have them resurface it and new guides seals, etc... put car back together, profit

Find a used engine, find a good machinist, figure out what needs to be done, DIY, profitAlthough there's no sense involved in building something that doesn't need to be done, unless you're one of the 'I bought this from here' type of people...

did you reset the ECU?

So you're going through with a 1000% markup and you're ok with that? i love this place.. never short of drama! :hmm:

Thats pretty low... its partially your fault for not knowing and not double-checking, and now you want to give them a bad name...

i would just re-ring it in the car... you can get a hone for a drill at napa fairly cheap..

same thing happened to me when one of the collets holding the boost gauge line in place split in two.. the boost leak was coming from the back of the gauge!

Are all your bell-housing bolts tight?

Time for some junkyard shopping! The time and money it would take you to fix that tank properly it would be easier to just find one...