LT;DR?They cool better alright... At idle. When driving the cooling difference between a painted black intercooler and a non-painted unit is basically the same.
Found that already, many of them aren't in stock etc. I'm talking about a kit(s) that could be made to create jumper harness' combinations etc. that I could find from a reputable vendor that has them in stock :D
In Jafro's video he's using a '90 case with the '90 gearset on his 6-bolt just as a point of reference. In truth I wish/hope that you *can* use the '90 gears in a later model helical case. Can some/any engine builders or high hp (with motors that have withstood the test of time) fellas chime in...
It's simple.If you have a case that was supposed to have helical gears, use helical gears. If you have a '90 case designed for the spur gears, then use those. The cases were made/machined differently, thus using helical gears in a straight cut housing is a no-no, and so is using straight gears...
Old thread here, but I have some info to add courtesy of your GVR4 brethren. Specifically, a Mitsu TSB that says "Don't use helical gears in a straight housing, and don't use straight gears in a helical housing".NO.: TSB-92-11-002 REVISION 2DATE: November, 1992MODEL: See BelowThis...
Yup, really. Terrible after-sale customer service, non-competitive pricing, underwhelming performance, they don't/didn't provide a build sheet for the motor upon request, somewhat shady marketing "New forged crank!" when it's a plain old Hyundai 2.4l crank. etc. etc. I could go on.Again, why...
Stay away from JAM, and before anyone asks I've had a motor built by them and I'm still sayin' STAY AWAY! My personal recommendation would be to have your motor built by Apex Auto Machine. Apex does most if not all of the machine work for AMS and Sound Performance, and if you don't know who...
I've had the Hallman Evolution RX kit (w/ceramic ball and both high/low boost springs) since about early '04. The controller worked fantastic, held boost rock solid and it was nice to be able to turn the knob for an increase when you need it :)Actually, mine is in my closet since switching...
Just some new info from "shawnc16" who followed this guide to install a 2G trans into his 1G.1. If the counterweight is on your 2G trans you'll have to cut it off, the counterweight will hit the radiator hose so be sure to hack it off. My 2G trans didn't have the counterweight on it so I...
I've had two friends that have burned up fake Walbro fuel pumps, and there are many more instances from some of my aussie pals over on team4g.net who have had similar experiences. I've had a Walbro 255 in my 1G since late '03, and it ran like a champ.
Nothing like playing Russian Roulette with your motor because you didn't want to spend the extra 25 to 50 bucks on a legit Walbro. I took a look though your thread on TGC and the Galant is cool. I see where you like to do things yourself to save a few bucks here and there and came out on top...
Installing a 2G trans in to a 1G or GVR4 is not too tough, but there are several things you need to be aware of. Here are the issues and how to overcome them. Realistically this swap has become quite rare due to the increasing price and demand of a good 2G trans, but if you're like me and found...
Suby's have different "standard" sizes for their pistons as well, not quite 10 over, 20 over, just a tiny bit from different manufacturing flaws or whatever you want to call it. I assume (hate to say it) that this is something similar. I would just go .20 over on whatever pistons you choose and...
There is an internal filter in the 044, Bosch WILL NOT warranty the pump however if you don't use a pre-pump filter. There are tons of alternatives, some are bosch, but what I've seen most are 30 micron sintered elements PRE pump. You can just run this in-line before the pump itself.Here's a...
Sure there may be the occasional and completely rare random 6-bolt and 4G64 that walk, but nowhere NEAR as many as the 2G 7-bolt. The OP was reasoning that crankwalk might happen because the head was not installed and torqued down, the girdle not installed and torqued down etc. but the same can...
If that were the case then why do the 2.4l's (of the 7-bolt variety) seem to nearly be impervious to "crankwalk"? They all sport the 7-bolt girdle that was thrown in the cheap way as well. I've never personally seen or heard of onewalking and the built examples seem to be running fine. as well...
I know the sump doesn't hold 5 quarts but when the whole system is pressurized with oil there can't be a ton down there on the bottom. This is actually pretty interesting. I guess a good way to determine how "high" up the oil goes would be to see where the dipstick sits when it's inserted.
I was under the impression that the crank doesn't touch the oil much except for maybe at the lower edges? I honestly never looked or thought about it but it's not like the crank is sitting where the oil pickup is? On a different note, the BC crank is 102mm? 2.4l with even worse r/s ratio? Eh...
JAM sure loves them some balance shafts don't they? They told me I had to use them in the stroker shortblock they made for me but when I asked them why I had to use 2.0 balance shafts to counter the vibrations made by my 2.4l crank they didn't even know that the swinging weight value was...
UPDATE: The images that I had up were hosted on a site that's no longer in use and are gone it appears.... Forever. Sorry fellas maybe someone saved it.
Damn, f that noise! As was mentioned previously be sure to get some sort of heatshield between the manifold and the hood or you'll be watchin' that paint cook.
I know a guy that's selling a JMFabrications intake manifold that has provisions for dual fuel rails in Omaha for cheap if you're interested! Though if it were me I'd just get a set of 1600's and call it a day.