check your ECU for internal damage and obviously all positive side cables and cable ends, make sure battery terminals are not hitting the hood and battery is properly bolted on
So first measure that you'll get ~5V DC to the connector which plugs in to the ECT sensor if yes it's most likely bad sensor but if you wanna check if sensor is bad, you can either back probe terminals when car is running and everything hooked up, in Ambient temperature it should read...
You can try if it works with multi meter it's 5V sensor so it varies 0-5V depending on coolant temperature, this is pretty typical part to fail, though couple months sounds too soon but if you do get code for it, it might be bad
Start by replacing ECT, if fuse was blown it's because that fuse is not designed for that much of a current flow and resistance so it will increase amperage over what fuse can handle, and I would not put bigger fuse in it as that might cause harness problems
Sounds like vacuum issue, spray some brake cleaner around intake manifold where it connects to the engine head and the split part and see if idle gets up for a bit, also inspect all vacuum hoses for cracks or cutsIs check engine light on? Are you able to read code?
I don't know why they hooked both fans together, that's a lot of current needed and I'd start by checking relays and fuses as they probably poppedAnother fan is for engine cooling and another one is just for ac, there's no need for another fan to blow unless it's hot summer day and you have...
Clearly not here. This subject has been gone through so many times in here.. start with basics and make your car profile so we know all modifications your car has if anywe're willing to help but I can tell that you have not put any effort on researching other posts by what you wrote down and...
Holy shit you were "lucky"!I'd say continuity test through each connections and check terminals/pins for tightness and corrosion and make sure all grounds are clean!
As I told earlier, that's probably what it is as it's really common, you can try replacing valve body but it always is mis or hit with aftermarket so my suggestion is to either buy a used working tranny or find OEM known good valve body
Yea I think valve body has gone bad but do as previously said, here's a good flowchart to follow (specially for p0763) second solenoid valve, which is most likely the failing one, conditions are limp mode aka safe mode (stuck on 3rd)
Yea I don't see any reason to upgrade them, even on high HP turbo engine. I wouldn't put wires, I'd invest on coil on plug system so you're able to adjust ignition timing and such for a tune, on stock engine, OEM is always the best as it's designed for the engine, and if it doesn't work, then...
I'd start by vacuum leak test (not cylinder leak down test) and check that vacuum lines are connected correctly and no visible cracks or cuts in the lines
honestly the wisest thing is to bring short block to machine shop so they can measure everything and see what's the best route, I'd let them to assemble it too so you also will have some type of warranty for your work if bottom end fails because they did something wrong
Yea they've meant as stock block, as you're still new in the game, id recommend to save money and buy 4g63t platform eclipse, but if you really wanna turbo your 420a, I would just service the car, put turbo parts on it and run it on 6-8psi and if you break your internals, then you can start...
Maybe AFR is correct but maybe fuel trim is off? That can be O2 related, adjusting too rich or lean, and vacuum leak also is a possibility (not O2 related)
Random misfire can occur when you have bad gas, did you purge the system or just add new gas in the tank? I just got customer today who got some bad gas at gas station before coming to service their car and it has random misfires due 5% water in the gas and low quality fuel with 10% ethanol...
I partly agree but it depends on many factors, I never got rods to bent but I blew head gaskets on some na engines I turbocharged when using composite but i never had that problem with MLS, but I suppose we're both right, but again, it all just depends on how and how well the setup has been put...
Aem is a good brand, a lot of potential, but ms squirt is commonly easier and cheaper, but aem provides more tune options, but I don't think there's plug and play kit for 420a so you need to do wiring yourself pretty muchWide and will measure your afr after turbo and you need that for the tune...
You can run 6-8psi on stock internals, just get MLS head gasket and arp head studs, megasqruit is a good standalone system, put your money on a good tune @ Dyno and use good parts, non of that eBay junk and you're good, but yea, you will need a lot of other parts and some fabrication skills...
this is gonna be nice to know, thank you for sharing, I was also wondering about the lights, did you rewire them or leave them out or did it fit straight up
Unplug your MAF and see if the idle gets better, if yes, it's probably your MAF sensor, but don't run it without MAF as it only goes to failsafe when you unplug it. Another thing could be some type of vacuum leak
I was going through old school books and saw this, thought someone here could have use for it, definitely has helped me throughout the yearsSpark plug is really helpful evidence for giving diagnostic for your car, don't throw them away once it starts misfiring or look ugly because you might...
That's not the cars vin but it's the transmission characteristics, identification number, gives details of the transmission, specially on modern automatic cars it is important so you can bind TCM, engine and transaxle together
engine and trans mounts are ok? if they're really loose it can tug wires, also check all connectors that they're good and tight and possibly try the pins out, specially on crank, cam sensors and ignition coil pack
Timing as camshaft and crankshaft timing marks are not in lineEven if it's premium, make sure you get the gas from station which is toptier certified, otherwise it might be bad gas as there's no regulations for it.These cars don't have ambient sensors, if the ECT shows 50°F when car is...
-Does gas cap smell like gas, do you run pump gas or re85?-contamination in fuel?-Check spark plugs and wires and that wiring order is correct, and post pictures of spark plugs-check fuel pressure and let us know how many psi/bar it is-check that timing marks are on spot-check dry...
ECU always get engine rotation signal from crankshaft sensor, that's the one which tells fuel pump to start runningKnock sensor shouldn't keep car from runningI never put 2g ECU in 1g but I'm sure there is differences, schematic diagrams will help you to make sure all the pins are the same...